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Fall leaves from a recent trip to the Finger Lakes NY area. Sony NEX-5N/Tamron 35mm F/2.8 Di III OSD M1:2 Thanks Vaughan

It seems entirely reasonable that they disable a video mode that requires a bit rate faster than any standard SD card can manage to an SD card (SD cards can be rated V30, V60, or V90) - if you try to record a video mode that would require something faster like a "V200" card then they don't let you. OK, you have some non-standard hack that pretends to be an SD card, but records faster - seems perfectly sensible that they don't support it considering they look at the card to know how fast a rate the card can handle. Pretty sure that Sony is protecting users who try to use a slow SD card to record a video mode that requires more speed than the card supports, and Sony has the camera say "you can't do that" rather than fail dismally to try to record it - can you imagine the complaints if the user got a recording that stuttered and captured a few frames then a gap then a few more frames? Feel free to complain, but don't expect sympathy. You tried something that isn't supported, and it didn't work. As far as I know, Sony cameras are the only ones that support two different formats of cards, AND let you have two matching cards of either format. Every other camera that supports two formats has one of each. There are quite a few cameras that support two matching slots, but they only support one format of card (eg: the Z9 support two CFexpressB cards), so you don't have the option of a second format. I like the flexibility - I don't have have enough CFeA cards to cover everything - I can use CFeA for some and SD for others. Yes, CFexpressA cards were fairly expensive in the beginning (back 4 years ago in the A1), and I paid a fair bit for a Sony 180GB CFeA card. But a few years later I spent the same amount for a Lexus CFeA 320GB card, and just recently I spent almost exactly the same amount for a Prograde 480FB CFeA V4 card (which is over twice as fast to load into the computer). The price falls as there is more competition. Interestingly, measurements have shown that cameras like the Z9 cannot write at full speed to their CFeB cards (presumably because they get really hot - they write only as fast as CFeA speeds 🙂

@kresch - The intervalometer is still good for night shots, just not really dark skies as needed for the milky way. But as I mentioned earlier, there are workarounds which I've been using successfully, for example in the timelapse I took below. Still haven't heard whether it's been fixed on newer models such as A7IV or A7RV.

Start with glass. Get a fast prime or two.

I think this is just a matter of progressive insight. Likely Sony found that the sensors attract slightly more dust when powered on, and perhaps found a very minor risk of damage due to shorting the contacts or power surge, and decided to add it to the manuals of later models just to be sure.

Hey guys I would like to share some of my latest shots. Equipment used: A7II, FE55/1.8, FE90/2.8M, FE35/2.8 Divided by Mathias, auf Flickr Into the Mist by Mathias, auf Flickr Pencil by Mathias, auf Flickr Ablaze by Mathias, auf Flickr Withered by Mathias, auf Flickr Swiss Mountain Panorama by Mathias, auf Flickr Dark Side by Mathias, auf Flickr

Not in my experience. A single spot makes it easier to start with a specific part of my subject without the camera trying to guess which spot I want. I shoot high speed motorsports from very close, as I am a track photographer. My A7 IV is actually more tenacious than my A1 when it comes to staying on target. I have found single spot tracking will stick and stay better than any of the other options, at least for me. Medium seems to work best for my setup.

I finally found it in the online manual. 😂

I beg to disagree: people moving towards the camera is somewhat of a problem for the 'slow' AF system of the A7i: it tends to backfocus a lot as the subject will have moved toward the camera between focus acquisition and shutter release. The hitrate with my old A6000 was pretty mediocre in this regard as well and it had a better AF system than the A7i. I do agree that the A7iii is really the camera that put these 'issues' to rest and showed people that mirrorless systems could outperform the dedicated AF module found in DSLRs.

We call this bird "Mosqueta estriada" (Myiophobus fasciatus) here in Argentina. I've got a new Sony 200-600 to replace the Sigma sport I was using with adapters on a a7RIII. And we went out to test it.

We call this one "cachilo canela" (Donacospiza albifrons) around here. When the day was ending, and the light was dim, we found these two small and beautiful birds and we share a few moments together on last weekend. Pictures taken with a7RIII and 200-600.

Unfortunately, the firmware is region and model specific. If you try to force a foreign firmware to the camera somehow you might loose functionality and warranty.

Taken with A7R II and a Sony FE 200-600mm with 1.4X teleconverter.

Sometimes (like once a month) your camera will do a hot pixel mapping when you turn it off. The shutter is closed and your camera shoots a dark frame to check for hot pixels. These hot pixels are subtracted from the overall exposure in subsequent images. This action counts as a shutter actuation so it's likely the reason for your missing shutter count.

Photoshoot at lake Traunsee in Austria... Sony ILCE-7M3 & FE 85mm F1.4 GM ƒ/1.4, 1/3200, ISO 100

something that doesn't usually appear in normal photo groups (somethin I like to do). Sony A7R3 w/ Sigma 105/2.8 macro

Hello, I wanted to share the set up for tracked panoramas that I am currently using, wich is based on the use of two two way head from Sunway: the DT-03 and the DT-03R. Both heads are very steady. They are made up of two parts: 1) a 360º graduated rotating/panoramic base with a bidirectional tilt central body (adjustable with two locking levers), and 2) an upper part that, in the case of the DT-03, it is a clamp quick release plate and, in the case of the DT-03, it is a graduated panoramic screw-on rotating head, both compatible with the Arca Swiss system. These upper parts are removable and, therefore, can be replaced by other standard rotating jaws type IRC-64, or by other indexed ones. As I said, I use one of them, the DT-03, as an equatorial wedge, placed directly on the tripod or on a leveling base. Its quick release head with clamp allows me to quickly place the tracker on top and be able to align easily. To align it, I loosen one of the central pins of the kneecap a little, and leave the other loose. This way I can safely achieve the degree of inclination of the tracker that I want. That, combined with the 360º rotating base that the head has, is an excellent option for precise and fast alignment. Then I place the DT-03R on top of the tracker, and use it as a panoramic flat base on which I mount an L-plate combined with a rotating clamp. On these last accessories I place the camera, ready to shoot, being able to move it both in the horizontal and vertical axis. The DT-03R screwed to the tracker allows me to have a solid flat and rotating base on which to pan without losing horizontality and, at the same time, I can compensate for the rotation of the tracker thanks to its base, which also rotates 360º. So the set up is as follows: Both This is what I use: Tripod Leveling base (optional) Sunway DT-03 two way head as a wedge Star tracker from Move Shoot Move Nomad Sunway DT-03R as a leveled base L bracket 360º rotatory arca swiss head Here I share some photos of the set up; I hope it helps: View: original size View: original size View: original size You can find them in the Sunwayphoto website. You can also see down below some of the photos that I took with this set up: View: original size View: original size View: original size @mallorca_landscapephotography

I have made 20" x 30" prints from photographs taken with my 24-105 and my A7RIV. They have been crisp, sharp and contrasty all the way out to the very corners. The only negative I see with the lens is that it is kind of big and kind of heavy, but that is going to be pretty much any full frame zoom. I would highly recommend the 24-105/4 lens!

Definitely yes, and also new glass types have come to the market, including hybrid plastic-glass lenses. However the limits of physics are still there, a fast lens requires big glass. IMHO the leap forward in recent year comes also from software correction, which for some lenses cannot be disabled. All in all, I believe that there is a market for those lenses if somebody can live with picture quality and appreciates the possibility to move from wide angle to long telephoto within a second and without changing lens. Given the kind of pictures that I take, my current two zoom setups meets my needs.

Size doesn't bother me much. For something like this I'd prefer a bit more size/weight in exchange for a bit more light. I shoot the Tamron 50-400 for hours on end, and the Sony 200-600 to a lesser extent. Polarizers are a must for my daytime shots as I am usually in bright sun with a lot of glare, and always try to buy those with a filter factor of one stop or so to keep as much light as possible. I would say that 95% of my shots are made with zooms. When it gets dark and I have to depend on lighting I revert to primes, but they're a bit more difficult to deal with in my situation. Like you, I depend on two zooms for most of my stuff, the 24-105 and 50-400. When it comes time to switch to primes, I limit them to a 24 and a 135 to try an avoid too many swaps. I think too that CAD and other technologies have made the old super zoom issues less of a concern. What used to take months to sort out now takes mere seconds. I was shocked at the IQ that comes out of the Tamron at the extreme ends and everywhere in between. We're going to see more of the wide>tele zooms in the near future, as well as fast zooms like Sigma's 28-45/1.8. Tamron's 35-150/2-2.8 opened a door.

From the technical side, it is easier to make a superzoom pushing on the tele side rather than on the wide side, and this is the reason why almost all superzoom stop around 28 mm on the wide side. I cannot speak specifically for this Tamron, but from the quality point of view, usually these lenses have their gold spot around 35-50 mm, where they are supposed to be used the most, and are quite soft at the tele end. Slowness, especially at the telephoto end, is the other trade off to avoid increasing size, weight and cost. A maximum aperture of 7.1 at 300 mm makes handholding at 300 mm not easy without ramping up with ISO and the situation becomes worse with a polarizer filter installed. Above f/ 5.6 autofocus in low light is also affected. All in all these lenses are "Jacks of all trades" and their main advantage is the possibility of doing a little bit of everything without having to change the lens. This is a value for some sport, where you need to shoot the field and zoom immediately into the single player or viceversa. For my shooting style I prefer to split the range in two, i.e. a wide to mild telephoto lens that does most of the job and a telephoto zoom for the occasional need, which for me is less than 5% of my shots.

I've been active on this forum for almost a decade and have to admit I miss the lively days where heated discussions with the occasional snarky / sarcastic yet knowledgeable and constructive comments provided me with a lot of reading fun. And I have to admit I 'contributed' to some of these as well. Peculiar yet skilled characters like Golem/Username surely livened up this place but eventually got banned for crossing the arbitrary line of becoming offensive. Then again, I'm glad this forum isn't as toxic as the average comment section on SolyAlphaRumors. The Amazon-spam surely doesn't help the forum either. I understand people trying to at least make the forum pay for itself, but I recon most of the income is generated by the parent site SonyAlphaRumors anyway. An active and useful forum can also help draw traffic to the parent site, so I feel these advertisements are counterproductive: new visitors are immediately put off by a spam post on their introduction message.

I have an alpha A7s. My camera started making noises as it it was taking multiple shots, but was only really taking one image. It turned out that the problem was the MultiFrame ISO setting had been enabled. and it was this that was taking the 'multiple shots'. You can change this setting from the back LCD screen via the Fn key.

It is a common situation to all forums. They have been killed by socials and even them are fading away. In the early 2000s I was a moderator in a forum dedicated to travel and tourism. We were more than 20 people, between admins and moderators, plus two webmasters. Nevertheless, we were not able to keep pace with the traffic, I remember logging in in the morning and finding more than 1000 new posts, having to read all of them, delete the spam and derailed ones and remove the ones that could lead into trouble (upset people often use words that could led into trouble and it was not uncommon for people that ran out of arguments to switch to insult and personal attack). Plus the huge work of joining discussion because people ignore the basic rule of forums, i.e. do not open a new discussion if there is already one on the same topic. Now this forum is simply dead. Game over. This is just an example, I can list many other forums that have gone this way. The average internet user does not want to spend time to search and read discussions, unless they have a problem that cannot be solved by a Google search limited to the results in the first page, and even in this case they register, open a discussion, expect to get an answer by an "expert" almost in real time, and then disappear into the blue. No sense of community, just free problem solving in real time. This is the spirit of internet today and I do not expect that a small, specific forum, will be able to reverse the trend. That said, I am glad that forums like this still exist and I hope they will continue. I found a lot of advice and even the solution to some issues without having to open a new discussion, simply because the matter had already been discussed. This, to me, is the real value of a good forum, a search engine that allows to dig into the knowledge base. Sorry for the rant.

Pine marten at Sax-Zim Bog from earlier this month. Taken with an A1 and a 600f4.

Cheers for that. I too use PureRaw which takes care of capture issues.

Welcome to our forum!

Hi @Jani Westman - I have and am not thrilled about it. It doesn't allow an instant release as well as a 2 second delay. i sometimes need both of these functions for my self-portraiture work, as the camera could be far or out of reach for me to keep going back and forth and changing it. it's frustrating. By "simplifying" and changing things they are actually making my life much harder now.

Shot in SD with Sony a7ll.

Do bear in mind that mirrorless cameras last quite a lot shorter than DSLRs with the same battery capacity because the sensor has to constantly read images to be processed and fed to the viewfinder. One of the very few drawbacks of mirrorless cameras over DSLRs.

The main problem with COLD is the battery -- not the camera -- and you seem to have already solved the battery problem, somehow, with your Pentax. Whatever you do will work with the Sony as well. FYI, lots of different cameras from different brands use the same battery.

Then try your 70-350 a bit at 350mm with 1.4x clear image zoom to see what 500mm looks like compared to 350. Unfortunately, clear image zoom doesn't work when shooting RAW so for the try-out you should set JPEG only. The Tamron 150-500 is substantially larger than the Sony 70-350 so you'll have to be willing to carry that bulk.

I can not say anything about cold weather since I live in South Florida. But I love my two Sony A7RIII. I bought them when they were released in November of 2017. I know this will sound crazy, but I also own the Sony A7IV. I have had it for almost 3 years and it's brand new still in the box as well as the Sony A7RV which I've owned since November 2023 (brand new, still in the box). I also own a couple of Sony Sony A7RII cameras and the Mark 3 is noticeably better than the Mark 2. OOPS, sometimes I shoot with three bodies; I have the Sony A7III too. Before switching to Sony I shot with Canon.

I can't vouch for the cold but I used the A7Riii in very very hot windy conditions and in several sand storms ( in Namibia ) without any I'll effects. I did use a silicone case on occasion which is readily available on Amazon for $20 or so, not because I didn't trust the camera but just in case I dropped it which I probably did several times without any damage. I've used Sony cameras since their inception and never had a fault occur.

Yes, you have to set this in the setup menu („Auto Review“)

Not surprising the dealer was willing to let it go at a bit of a discount - some people would overlook the older model in favour of the new. A nice sweetener to your purchase! Congratulations!

The pool adjacent Smithsonian Museum of National Gallery of Art, Washington, DC USA Sony A7CR with the Sigma 50mm f1.2 Art lens.

Thanks for sharing your experience. Yes, for your usecase for landscape photography, the 10-18 should be totally fine as you tend to stick to ~f/8 for depth of field anyway. OSS might indeed help a little there if you're shooting handheld, as shutterspeeds might become a little slow if you want to keep your ISO low.

So. Time for update. I ended buying the Sony 10-18 mm /f 4. The lens seems to be officially discontinued, but I found a NOS at a dealer, willing to sell it at a little bit less 500 Euro, which is not that much more of a good used copy. I had the chance to test it in the shop against the new 10-20 mm (about 250 Euro more expensive). OK, given sample variability, a non-instrumental comparison between two copies of a lens is indicative, but this is what I learnt by taking a few shots with a 6400 just outside of the shop on a sunny day. The new 10-20 mm wins hands on on the old 10-18 mm when both are used wide open. The latter is more soft, especially in the corners. The difference almost disappears when moving to /f 5.6 and 8, which are the gold spots of the 10-18 mm. From /f 11 onwards, diffraction starts to kick in. The 10-20 mm instead seems to reach the performance peak at /f 5.6. These are the aperture widths I would use those lenses: 4 and 5.6 for the 10-20 mm and 5.6 and 8 for the 10-18 mm. As far as focal lenght is considered, the new 10-20 shows a more uniform performance over the range, the 10-18 seems to be best around 10-15 mm and tends towards softness at 18 mm. Could not evaluate distortion, for this a squared target is needed. All in all, the performance of the 10-18 mm is enough for my needs and I can always upgrade at a later stage (the opposite is not true, as stocks of the 10-18 mm end) and the price tag was far more attractive. Since I don't use it for video, I prefer to have a mechanical manual zoom ring that I can preset and then fine tune rather than a power zoom, I also like the idea of having the OSS since my camera body has no IBIS. For video shooters and better image quality wide open, I recommend the new 10-20 mm.

https://www.sony.com/electronics/support/res/manuals/4117/41175620M.pdf found it!😀

You can download the user manual of DSRL1 remote control in the Sony website.

Hi, her the answers to the best of my knowledge. Q1 - should be DSLR1, but double check. If you need for macro work, but are on a budget, I use the old trick of using the delay timer set on 5-10 seconds, enough to let the camera stabilise after the shake of pressing the shutter button and avoid vibrations. Q2 - NP-FH50 Q3 - Most likely you are limited to SD or SDHC cards, up to 32GB, which is plenty of capacity for a 10MP camera, Q4 - Sony/Minolta A mount

I agree that the words are somehow unclear - but still it isn't done in camera...

The 16-50 kit lens is pretty mediocre so it'll always compare poorly to other lenses, especially fixed focal length (prime) lenses. What's more, the lighting conditions in your sample photos seem pretty dim, so if the photo is taken on auto settings the 16-50 will have a big disadvantage in terms of aperture fastness compared to an f/1.7 prime lens (resulting in high ISO noise and/or motion blur). Try the lens in good lighting conditions and your results may be better, but don't expect prime quality out of this lens.

Bald Eagle - he wasn't looking at me! Image taken in SW Florida USA February 19, 2024 Camera: Sony Alpha 1 + FE 600mm f4 GM

For future readers: Google "sony memory recall".

My 2 grandsuns felt asleep, by attending a small family reunion in the evening. #sonyalphagallery