Jump to content


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/22/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Nooo! You just added to the confusion! Please stop spreading this misconception. The fact that you happen to use FF-equivalence as a reference doesn't make it the Golden Standard. Look up the definition of focal length: sensor size has nothing to do with it. A 50mm lens is a 50mm lens, no matter what sensor you use. Some cheap cameras put the FF-equivalent focal length on the lens, which is just wrong and confusing. People who know how to work with equivalence don't need this false information, people who don't know how to use equivalence don't care. For example: On the RX0 it says it has a 24mm lens, which is bullocks: it has an 8mm lens and a 1"-type sensor. People who know how to use equivalency will know a 1"-sensor has a crop-factor of about 3, so the camera has the same field of view as a 24mm lens on a fullframe sensor.
  2. 2 points
    Has to be in VIDEO mode. (Verified using A7Sii) You need to have selected MANUAL in VIDEO mode (4,5) for it to work and not photo mode (1,2,3). Image 4 showing P instead of M but it works for all iterations when doing video. Remember to toggle back up to where there's an orange box around the mic level adjustment scale as shown (5) or any changes won't stick. Don't leave the menu when RESET is highlighted or it reverts back to whatever pervious level you set.
  3. 2 points
    Turn off MF Assist, and then go to your custom keys, and set one for Focus Magnifier. I use the one next to the shutter button. MF Assist is actually a pain anyway. And, you are correct that if you don't have an auto-focus lens, you can't use MF assist. With Focus Magnifier, you push the custom key and a box will show up on the screen. Press the wheel to move it over the area you want to magnify on to check focus. Then press the custom key again, and it will magnify in. You can still use the wheel buttons to move around on the screen. Press the custom key again, and it will magnify more, then one last push, and it goes back to normal view. Also, if you are magnified the first step, you can half press the shutter button to get back out of it. It works like MF Assist, except you have a second level of magnification, and it only comes on when you want it to, not every last blasted time you try to focus.
  4. 2 points
    A couple of new shots from the 200-600
  5. 2 points
    Moon 1/125s ISO-125 f/9 840mm (1.4TC) Hand held
  6. 1 point
    Thad E Ginathom

    On-Off Chime Sounds

    General beeps, on a6000/a6500 come under Audio Signals, which is on the final page of the Camera-2 menu. But they never had on/off beeps that I was aware of. Would hate that! But each to their own!
  7. 1 point
  8. 1 point

    Manual override on Autofocus?

    For a9 and a7r* bodies this is something you set on the body, not the lens. It's called DMF (direct manual focus). https://helpguide.sony.net/gbmig/44840601/v1/eng/contents/TP0000226551.html?search=DMF https://helpguide.sony.net/ilc/1830/v1/en/contents/TP0001116962.html?search=DMF It may be available for other bodies, too.
  9. 1 point
    Nice pictures, but I'd interpret that as aggression and seriously consider being somewhere else fairly quickly!
  10. 1 point

    Dinia mena

  11. 1 point
    Nice! Congrats. Enjoy.
  12. 1 point


    From the album: Sony A7iii

    © ©571Photography

  13. 1 point


    From the album: Sony A7iii

    © ©571Photography

  14. 1 point
    Like error codes. The engineers know what they mean and caused it and possibly how to remedy it but everyones else is left in the dark. Sony might have well have thrown up a screen saying Stop Trying to Do That. Equally as helpful.
  15. 1 point
    It is an absolute beast that gets plenty of mount time on my a6500. The colors are punchy, images pop and it has very near macro performance for product photography!
  16. 1 point

    What computer for photo editing?

    Harry, there's not a generic answer to your question. Things to consider (IMO) include: If you edit images professionally, you probably wouldn't ask this forum for advice in the first place. So let's assume, you're an amateur like most of us. In this case, you wonder if you should be trading money (which is an equivalent to the lifetime you spent earning it) for lifetime, which you are going to spend waiting for your edits to become visible on-screen. If you edit _enough_ images, it's advisable to invest in a tool, which cuts down on the waiting time. If you edit only every once in a while, you'd probably be better off (financially and livetime-wise) waiting for the results. So much for the metaphorical part of it. 😉 The waiting time itself consists of processing time (which is dependent on the CPU power), the data loading time, which is dependent on several aspects like RAM size, RAM speed, disk speed (in case of insufficient amount of RAM) and even network bandwidth (in case of accessing data on a NAS). Finally, you have the display time, which is dependent on bus-width of the graphics adapter connection to the mainboard, plus of course the GPU power itself. If I had only limited resources at hand (which I can easily imagine), I would put my preference on a good CPU and enough of RAM. From a gut feeling, I would go for at least the twenty-fold of the size of a raw image (because of undo buffers, layers and similar stuff), plus enough for the OS and the image processing software itself. Since RAM isn't that expensive any more, 16GB would most probably bring you very far. Provided, the OS you're using supports that much RAM. The rest (disk or SSD, network and/or graphics adaptor) seem rather insignificant to me in comparison. Because, let's face it: as amateurs, we'll be spending most of the time sitting in front of our screen, contemplating on how we could tweak that decisive little bit more to of our picture. The waiting time for an edit to become visible becomes very insignificant, compared to the above. (My personal experience) Hope that helps.
  17. 1 point
    A7R4 and 24 - 70 GM accidentally left it on ISO 800....DR is good...The camera is comfortable to hold, and the buttons are lovely to press. I like the button to lock the Exposure compensation. The cameras feels much better put together, all the doors are more secure and solid... Wembley Park BW by singingsnapper, on Flickr
  18. 1 point
    Totally different optical design. Though the SAL 16-50 is good value for money, the SEL 16-55 is a state of the art optical design. The E-mount lens is designed for mirrorless camera's, the A-mount lens for cameras with a mirror box. I expect it to perform a whole lot better than the A-mount lens, but noone knows for sure until some proper reviews are published.
  19. 1 point
    Hi Graphic Design, I'm current using the SAL1650F28 / LAEA1 combo on my a6500 which the new lens is probably a rehash of. My copy is so sharp that it puts all my primes to shame. I bought my copy for $300. Just something for you to consider before you shell out $1398 for the over-priced, and probably rehashed e-mount version of this lens.
  20. 1 point

    Mantises by my door step

    Praying Mantises Sony A9 + 90mm f2.8 macro SOOC #sonyalphagallery

    © Rafael Otero Jr

  21. 1 point

    Arizona bird life

    Common birds of Cochise County Arizona all photos: a7rIII, FE 100-400 GM
  22. 1 point
    Pacific Black ducks enliven a cold dull morning. Australia. A9 & FE 200-600mm
  23. 1 point
  24. 1 point
    That option is not available in video. Perhaps try experimenting with the Picture Profiles and perhaps you can find something that is close to what you want. I suggest taking a still photo of a person using Soft Skin, then record a short movie with each PP and see which one is closest to the still image. https://helpguide.sony.net/ilc/1810/v1/en/contents/TP0002273496.html You may end up having to adjust the movie in post.
  25. 1 point

    The Flying Scotsman

    We had the refurbished "Flying Scotsman" steam train through our county today and I took my Father-in-law who is 89yrs old to see it, he has only ever seen it in a museum not live on the railway. We were lucky as it remained dry even if a little dull after days of continuous rain. A fantastic sight and a real please to be able to grab some photos of it under steam!
  26. 1 point

    ILCE-7RM2 Software update 4.01

    This is the list of improvements from the Sony web site: Added Auto Pwr OFF Temp. function. When using the camera in a high-temperature environment When someone with poor circulation or impaired skin sensation uses the camera When using the camera with the Auto Pwr OFF Temp. function set to High Improved operability of the camera: Improved operability when AF area is set to flexible spot Added Live View Display into custom button assignation Added Set File Name function Supports visible light LED in external flash for AF (HVL-F45RM) Improved release time lag when wireless flash is used Optimised exposure algorithm during focusing when Live View Display has Setting Effect OFF Improved image quality when Long Exposure NR setting is OFF Improved overall stability of the camera Support for Radio-controlled Lighting System Improves stability of the camera while shooting still images by regulating the internal temperature Overall stability and operability of the camera is improved. I can't say I've noticed any particular change in the way the camera operates. The one function i'd like to be able to customise is the "APS-C/Super 35mm" to be able to change quickly. I don't think you can do it yet, or at least I haven't found out how to. I hope it's in the next update, if there is one.
  27. 1 point
    Great answer. I followed your advice and it works just fine.
  28. 1 point
    Exactly, it might be so... Thank you all for replying, I really wouldn't have thought of the formating issue here.
  29. 1 point
    Hi! I never mentioned that the SD cards "in trouble" are MicroSD cards with 64GB Sandisk ExtremePlus V30 XC 1 class3 A1, and I used the Slot1 in the A7III I used Disk Utility to format to ExFat, put the card in the camera and formated, put it to record and the files ended up 4,19GB each again. Please see Pic-1 where it shows a screenshot from Finder. Then I checked the card with Disk Utility and it showed "No NAME" and that it was MS-DOS.. See the Pic-2 attached. My conclusion is that the camera formated the card to MS-DOS for some reason thus chopping files into 4,19GB each. I took the Micro SD out again and formated it to ExFat in Disk Utility, put it back in the camera. It didn't ask to format the card, only let the camera fix the Database, it took 5-6 seconds. Then I recorded a long video resulting in one big MOV file. When I use the full sized Sandisk SD Extreme Pro 64GB 170Mb/s XC 1 V30 card, everything is fine. Formated in Disk Utility, the put in camera, formated, and it's not chopping the files at all, see the Pic-3 attached. The crazy thing is that I have two of these MicroSD cards, completely identical, bought on same occasion . One card is being formated the right way in camera (to exFat) and the other one into MS-DOS. Tested this 3-4 times, always the same card. Now I know (I marked the card) which shouldn't be formated in the camera and I won't have troubles any more, but it's maybe good to know for others, it's either the card or inconsistent behaviour of the Sony A7III formating sequence. Is it firmware issue or what, I wouldn't know. Thanks everybody!
  30. 1 point

    Alpha 7 III - Megapixel crop mode

    hello sorry! i'm so used to read english that in my mind i was reading this forum in my own language 😮 anyway: hello i got a question about the APS-C super35mm" function In video mode some functions cannot be used, so i usually use photo mode even to register videos, in S dial mode, so the camera can adjust all parameters by herself mantaining the shutter speed rule 25p 1/50 - 100p 1/200, etc. Do you think there is some problem using photo mode to shot videos?? However, if I use the crop function, the megapixels displayed on the screen decrease (rightly because you cut out a piece of sensor) My question is: if I start recording a video in crops mode selected, does this loss of quality in terms of Megapixels persist and will I therefore have less defined images? or does it only apply to photos? Thanks for your attention, greetings
  31. 1 point

    New Sigma 14-24mm 2.8 Art

    Hello! New here! I got in the new Sigma 14-24mm 2.8 yesterday and made a video about it to help others looking for an e-mount wide angle lens. Hope it helps some of you! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y3YfjE6pzoA&t=1s
  32. 1 point
    840mm (200-600 + 1.4TC) ISO100 1/500s a9 Significant crop
  33. 1 point
    ISO 4000, interior through a pane of glass ISO 160, outside through chain link fence (hence weird bokeh) ISO 400, Outside
  34. 1 point
    You also have to factor in technique. The high MP bodies of any brand will show up minor faults in technique, such as camera shake/movement, poor focus such as focus-recompose with wide apertures, in addition to the potential resolution of the lens.
  35. 1 point
    I'm the proud and happy owner of both the SEL20TC and also the SEL100400GM and achieve very good results on my a9 with this combo. I do however, if the target allows, use manual focussing most of the time, and find the depth of view to be exceptionally shallow at the long end. Also be aware, that any shakiness of your hands gets exaggerated at such long focal distances. Which is why you are advised to use exposure times shorter than the (reciprocal of the) fourfold of the focal length. For instance: @800mm you should expose for a 1/3200th or shorter, if you go for handheld. As @michelb already mentioned, you're also limited on the aperture end, which in combination makes TCs of any kind most suitable for very well lit situations only.
  36. 1 point
    I wouldn't call this a "compatibility" issue, but rather a "hitting physical limits" issue.
  37. 1 point
    Tony The Tiger74

    Contemplating Life

    #sonyalphagallery My two year old granddaughter with a lot on her mind.
  38. 1 point
    Sony A9 with Canon 400mm F4 DO II and Metabones V adapter. (www.larrywongphotography.com)
  39. 1 point
    Many thanks LiveShots. Sounds like a good suggestion. Will check, and if nothing visible, will use an air line. May be drastic, but it's going in the bin otherwise. Very much appreciated.
  40. 1 point

    Foggy Maze

    RX100 MK3
  41. 1 point
    Thanks "Newbie" (sorry for not knowing your name), for this clarification. I'm afraid, in this case we'll have to dig a little deeper. I've annotated a diagram for this purpose. It's called a "Carrier diagram" or "Psychrometric chart". For an explanation of scientific terms used, please refer to the respective article on wikipedia. Source/Author: https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:PsychrometricChart.SeaLevel.SI.svg This diagram tells you about various states of "moist air", containing more or less water in gaseous form. Along vertical lines the temperature remains constant. Horizontal lines are lines of constant water content, in grams of water per gram of dry air. The curved lines are lines of constant relative humidity. I have marked the two states you mentioned: Blue star for your dry cabinet, at 28° and 40% relative humidity. Red star for outside condition of 30° and 90% relative humidity. The large white area beyond the 100% relative humidity line (upper left) is where condensation occurs (the "foggy" area). Note, that at the "blue star" state you are a very comfortable ~15° safety margin away from the condensation line, whereas at the "red star" state you are a mere 2° away from condensation conditions. Again, assuming, that the lens is mounted to the body at all times, within the dry cabinet and outside, you have a volume of air sealed inside your camera which contains ~10grams of water per kg of dry air. Since this volume is sealed, so is the absolute amount of water trapped inside. That's why you are moving along a horizontal line, when heating your gear or cooling it off. All you change this way is the relative humidity inside the sealed volume. You would have to cool this off by 15° or more, to have condensation occur inside your camera on any internal surfaces. Considering your operating conditions, there is no way how this could happen. Also note, that your camera, after being taken out of the dry cabinet, is already 2° colder than outside conditions, which would completely eat up your safety margin from condensation start from the red star state. In that case, I would expect condensation to become visible on the outside of the front lens. Much like in winter, when people wearing glasses enter a heated room from the outside. My recommendation is, to heat up your dry cabinet as close as possible to outside temperatures, to avoid this second type of condensation. If that's not possible, then give your gear considerably more time than the stated 20 minutes, to accommodate to outside conditions, after taking it from the cabinet.
  42. 1 point
    Alejandro Espeche


    Hi My fashion version of steampunk, shooting with Sony A7R3, Batis 85 and yongnuo flash
  43. 1 point
    sixzeiss and Jaf, Thanks for your guidance. As mentioned earlier I had opened aperture to "max", but also made other changes as well, so not possible for me to attribute improvements to which change. Using AF-C Wide, while turning off: face recognition, Lock On, and "expand flexible spot" seemed to really improve the speed of focus capture, and these three items plus wide open aperture taken in total have made a big difference to the speed of acquisition, and sharpness of focus. I like the idea of manual focus for stationary birds, but do find the "flexible spot (s)" to allow me to isolate the bird to the extend that auto focus works very well. Manual is certainly a "back up" that will deal with problematic situations, and I have taken your advice to turn peaking down to low, and color red. I've also customized a button to magnify, and find that very useful. Great forum - very helpful. Thanks!
  44. 1 point
    Hi, i'm a newbee here Sometimes i use this combo (A7rII and 85GM) for architecture and street photography.
  45. 0 points
    Just to elaborate...All lenses MM is presented in Full Frame Equivalency. What determines field of view is the crop factor of the camera sensor. Sony APS-C has a crop factor of 1.5 so in this case 1.5 times 16mm gives a field of view of 24mm.
  46. 0 points

    Did I fry my Sony A7iii?

    You did what? You had a 3rd-party battery unit and you screwed a screw in the living body of your 7AIII? Do you know what? You are the reason why the prices are so high and why nobody wants to give camera owners insurance. You need a new camera. And an adult to watch what you are doing so that you do not harm yourself. NO! the moves you described are not warranty or insurance issues. You killed your camera. Guilty as charged.
  • Newsletter

    Want to keep up to date with all our latest news and information?

    Sign Up
  • Create New...