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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/28/2021 in all areas

  1. Point your mouse to your avatar and click on Find Content. You will see all of your post made thus far.
    1 point
  2. XKAES

    SONY A7iii light leaks

    Does the streak show up in the viewfinder or LCD panel? Try pointing at a black object to fill the frame with BRIGHT light all around the lens. Do you see the streak?
    1 point
  3. thebeardedgroundsman

    Level horizons

    I don't wish to criticise other photographers but ... Why do some people have trouble achieving level horizons in their photos? With the level facility on most Sony Alphas and most editing software (even on photo sites like Flickr) it should be easy enough to achieve. It is most noticeable where water is on the horizon, as water finds it's own level - one degree out can spoil a brilliant photo. Maybe, after 40 odd years of landscaping, I notice these things more than most - I don't know.
    1 point
  4. Did the camera hit the ground first or the lens? Was it in a case? How far did it drop? Do ALL functions appear to work correctly? Do you have a different lens to try? You haven't given us much to work on. Perhaps you should change your ID from Brokeh to Broken.
    1 point
  5. With Firmware 3.0, the α7R III and α7 III (as well as the Sony α6400) now have a built-in timelapse intervalometer. Here are some tips to get the camera set up for making a timelapse using the built-in controls. ... To get your camera ready to shoot a timelapse, start by accessing the Internal Intervalometer.
    1 point
  6. I've never liked filters. I've had nothing but problems with lens flares, etc. I find a lens hood is just as good at protecting the front element and doesn't mess with image quality.
    1 point
  7. You are correct. The Maxxum 5 is the smallest and lightest film SLR ever made -- and PACKED with features. But I didn't have a need to keep the Maxxum 5 -- I already have one, with a data back. I only bought the other one for the 24-200mm lens. I kept the the like-new lens, and sold the like-new Maxxum 5. So I got the 24-200mm lens for free -- with an extra $10 in my pocket -- and use the lens on my Maxxum 5!!! The 24-200mm is definitely the perfect ALL-IN-ONE lens -- on my light Maxxum or my heavy Sony!
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  8. Taking a cue from "Lucky Imaging", I have reworked my approach to photographing bright celestial objects (namely the Moon, Jupiter, Saturn, Mars and Venus) with my Sony equipment: Jupiter Sony A7R iii 100x1/60s ISO-400 1200mm F13 Hardware used: - Sony A7R iii (full frame camera) - Sony SEL200600G (SEL 200-600mm F5.6-6.3 E-mount telephoto zoom lens) - Sony SEL20TC (2x teleconverter) - Sony RMT-P1BT Bluetooth remote control unit - Sturdy tripod - Bahtinov mask Software used (all freeware): - PIPP - AutoStakkert 3 - RegiStax 6 Take pictures: - Centre object in frame (helpful to zoom to 200mm first and find the object, then move to 600mm). - Focus using the Bahtinov mask (alternatively, focus manually using the focus magnifier) - Take approx. 100-700 pictures in continuous shooting mode (high speed) (manual mode with exposure time much shorter than 1/10s) Post-process the images: - Convert the RAW images into an AVI film in PIPP - Stack the images in AutoStakkert - Sharpen in RegiStax - Further post-processing, e.g. in Adobe Photoshop, is possible, but not really necessary. For those interested, the workflow in PIPP: - Open RAW images in the Source Files tab, pre-select "Planetary"" for all planets (not moon!) (object must contain 25 pixels, image will be cropped to 448x448 pixels), - Output Options - here you can set the data format and the output directory, but it should fit (AVI into the same directory as the RAWs). - Do Processing - Start Processing in AutoStakkert: - Open generated AVI file ( 1) Open) - Image Stabilization - "Planet (COG)" and "Dynamic Background" remain activated. - Select the size of the alignment points (e.g. 24 or 48, rather not more than 100) and create a grid with "Place AP Grid", approx. 20-50 blue frames should be created in the analysis image. - 2) Analysis - a "Quality graph" (grey graph of single images, sorted in green descending order) is generated. - Use the green slider to select a limit (e.g. the best 10%, 20% or 35%). Then enter this in the first field on the left at "Frame Percentage to Stack". - The other 4 options can be/remain activated. - 3) Stack and in RegiStax: - Open stacked image - Possibly more contrast and less brightness, if there are bright areas without inner structure you have overdone it. - Sharpen - the sliders sharpen larger and larger details from top to bottom. Pull them to the right in this order. This creates artefacts, which can be removed by increasing the - denoise (whereby the denoise box above the first sharpness control with e.g. 0.4 is often sufficient). - The goal is an image with many clearly defined details without traces of noise or grain.
    1 point
  9. Yep, I've still kept my adapter and Minolta AF500 (it's so light I can carry it when not planning on using my GM long lens.)
    1 point
  10. It might be that the sensor itself is dirty? Initially try the sensor cleaning mode with no lens attached and pointing down. If this doesn't work, you can inspect the sensor by flipping the translucent mirror out of the way. To do this, have no lens fitted, at the bottom of the mirror, in the middle, there is a little metal tab. Press this down and the mirror flips up to reveal the sensor. If it looks dirty you have a choice of getting it cleaned professionally, or risking cleaning it yourself. Start with a blower before moving onto a sensor cleaning brush. (the mirror is very fragile, so try to avoid touching it.) To get brighter shots in-camera remember you have the +/- (EV) button next to your ISO button. I find my A68 still works really well and I use it a lot for wildlife as the cropped sensor gives me more "reach" than my A99.
    1 point
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