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Never mind. I found it, I was in video mode, the option only shows in the still menu set for AF.

Try setting the camera to full auto mode (the green camera on the mode dial). Pics should turn out as nice as they did pre firmware update. Look at the auto settings used in that mode and start working from there. ISO 25600 is waaay too high. Set the max to 3200 or 6400 at most in very dim conditions.

Thank you...I missed that. I didn't touch the apeture setting but I should have checked it and failed to do so this time. The ISO is on auto and that's an issue I've had since I updated the firmware...regardless of paerture, it seemed to be stuck at 25600. Yes, it could easily be me but I'm just basing it on past pics prior to the firmware update. It was rare, if ever, that I had to go to any other settings, especially when they were on auto such as ISO, to make changes. Shutter speed seems to slow right down when shooting...to speeds that require using a tripod and not holding by hand when I shoot in aperture mode. I did notice before (once again, maybe my imagination), that when I'm in shutter priority mode, and have selected a speed to shoot at, if I switch to apeture priority, it seemed to keep the shutter speed I selected as I could see that in the viewfinder (and I'm definitely not that skilled in having picked the same as what the camera would pick...lol). That was prior to the firmware update. Thank you again, I appreciate your reply and tips...I'll do more testing this week and watch to make sure I choose the correct settings for the mode I shoot in and see if I can get this to work like it did before as I do miss how well (for my level) the pics were turning out before.

Then switch back to manual shutter mode to get the 'clunk' on which your model depends. Where'd you get the data that silent extends the life of the camera? By how much? The thought of the camera breaking has never entered into the equation as to what I did with it and how much. Like marrying and not kissing her because you don't want to wear the lips out. I'd be seriously handicapping my art if I placed greater emphasis of camera 'economics' over camera 'opportunities'. - - - Words to live by... If you bought it, use it. If you married it, kiss it. (The next owner rarely bothers to thank you anyways.)

Ok, sorry to say but this is mostly user error. In both pics you're in Aperture priority mode. In the pic from 2022 you selected F/22 for aperture, which is really really small. Not only does the lens become soft at such a small aperture due to diffraction, your ISO is boosted to 25600 (!!!). This will cause heaps of noise. I don't really understand though why the camera picked such a fast shutter speed. Possibly there's a minimum shutter speed selected in the ISO-settings. In the pic from 2020 you selected a reasonable aperture of F/4. Combined with the much slower shutter speed this setting worked at ISO 100, resulting in a clean and noiseless image.

Interesting topic. Maybe, just to put some view here. Human eyes are, of course, very different, they do have obvious ability to move, to change focus angle, using muscles. So the focus can be found without head being moved, it may be similar to the (potential) camera having no moves and the lens would be with possibility to change angle in order to find the object of focus. The focused object for eyes is always at the center, the F number is being achieved similar way as the camera lens are doing that, narrowing and minimalizing the amount of light coming to the yellow spot at the back of the eye (or maximizing that in low light). Nearsighted people may get the sharpness of view by looking to objects thru very small holes at the (for example) paper, which is similar to getting more sharpness using F numbers (example) 8 or more at lenses. Human eyes are not using complete sight angle, just the central part of the range (even visibility is really very wide). As moving easily, they're reaching the objects of view to be at the center of the view. Both eyes are making 3D perspective, important for orientation at space, environment, as they are recalculating the view all the time. Fujifilm developed 3D W3 cameras, with nice 3D, "stereo" view, including very interesting rear display which is providing 3D image, combining 2 separate "normal" photos (or 2 videos for 3D video). As the image at the rear screen is processed artificially, human eyes are not being prepared to watch it for longer time, more people may have headache after just few minutes. Even, having that in mind, results are amazing. Again, the topic is very, very interesting, it's even touching "technical" aspects of human eyes view.

Sorry for the dealy in replying. I didn't use the camera much since I posted and had to get pics without people in them. I've attached a couple of examples of before and after the firmware update. DSC02672 was taken today (Jan 24, 2022). DSC09488 was taken Dec 25, 2020. Update to firmware was done in Sept 2021. I tried to find compartive pics that were close in the settings. I also notice that I have a lot more noise in pics I've taken since the update to the firmware as well. I find that it's not as sharp as it used to be. I don't usually touch the other settings. I found that in November on a trip I was on to the Dominican, I had to adjust either the aperture settings and/or the ISO (which I always leave in auto as I'm still a newbie) or the pic would be too bright or too dark...which it still was even after manually adjusting. As I mentioned, prior to the firmware update, I had no issues whatsoever with the quality of the pics. Now, it just doesn't seem to adjust properly on settings that are auto which I never touched in the past.

Hi folks. I have a brand new FX3 with the 24 – 70 2.8 GSM lens. I’m having an issue with the menus randomly disappearing. I can be in almost any menu making adjustments, and all of a sudden, it just disappears and sends me back to the normal shooting screen with the display overlay. Has anyone experienced this? And with this camera having similar innards to the A7Siii, I'm wondering if users of that camera have experienced this issue? Thanks very much. Stewart

This Saturday, had the same 2 times (using A7ii) when taking a photo with huge contrast (2 times, both have two "clicks"). Sun, thru forest, there were 2 "clicks" per shot. Did not press shutter button for longer time, as mentioned, connection between two images is just huge contrast. It may be related to HDR, even DRO Sony Dynamic Range Optimization settings (even, this option is being "leveled"). On A3000 there were more options using multiple shots to create one photo, working automatically. On A7ii is different. Question is if photos created by both "clicks" were saved individually. I did not check that later.

Not sure if anyone made field comparison test for the Sony 28mm F2 to Sony 28-70mm kit lens; anyway, I spent some time outside making 100's of photos using those 2 lenses. Simply to say, the prime one is much, much better, seeing results at 100% (and more) view of photos being taken with same F (I used F8), ISO (200) and shutter speed (1/125+). Prime one does not have OSS, both have very silent AF, color rendering is looking good at both, but, even at F8, sharpness at the zoom one cannot be considered as perfect (for some reason, at few photos it's not bad at all, but others are not good examples). Yes, postprocessing may be applied, but the basic, from-the-camera photos are many times "asking" for more or less retouching. Having the manual Minolta Rokkor 28mm 2.8, have to say that even being vintage, it provides really good result photos, from-the-camera, easily comparable with both Sony ones (color rendition, sharpness, bokeh). Anyone has some others, 28mm lenses compared?

Hi, I had asked Sony support about this when I first got my A7iv, and they said only A1 and A9x have sound when using ES. I put in a request to fix that in a firmware update, but no idea if they will actually do that. Jim

For the A7IV, I can find where to use face registration but not where you register new faces. Anyone know where that option is located? Thanks!

I’m also struggling with this. I have an accessory that requires PC Remote, but I don’t have the option on the A7sIII

I recently purchased the Sony A7IV. 100% of the time, I shoot in Electronic Shutter mode to prolong the life of my cameras. I had come to find out that the A7IV shoots in silent mode, which means you do not hear/feel the shutter click. The shutter click sound is only available when in the Mechanical Shutter mode. I had reviewed everything on the menu, but there is no option to turn on this option. Some are comfortable shooting in silent, unfortunately I am not one. When photographing my subjects, they are reliant on the shutter click sound to move on to their next pose, and I am very reliant on the sound to ensure my camera is functioning well. Has/Is anyone experienced/experiencing this problem as well? I had chatted with an Sony agent with no resolution to this dilemma of mine. If anyone had gone through this, and has resolved this issue, how would I go about it? Attached are photos from the menu showing what was seen from my menu, along with a short video. Thank you! IMG_8221.MOV IMG_8216 2.HEIC IMG_8217 2.HEIC IMG_8219.HEIC IMG_8220.HEIC

Everybody! No cables- On you a6000 camera, go into MENU- Playback-View Mode-Folder View (MP4) You can now see and select the movies that you want to transfer. Then simply go to Wireless-Send to Smartphone-This Image- (even though it says 'This Image', it will transfer the Video file you are currently stopped at. Then of course connect to the Camera wifi access point on your iPhone, then. use your 'Imaging Edge Mobile' app and touch 'Start' ( which should be orange) and it transfers the video to you phone! I've found that the USB cables never seem to sink up with the computer. Save yourself the aggravation!

A7iv - ordered on pre-sell and received on 2021-12-23 or so. I am loving it after having had A7 and A7ii (purchased while waiting for the A7iv, now both sold).

Limited Edition, what's the difference between a Limited Edition and the rest of the peons? I am not even getting a hit on Google and no mention of 'Limited Edition' at sony.ca.

I have the Sony, A1, A9II, 600mmGM, 200-600, 24-70, 2.8 90mm, 70-200 V2.

Which Sony camera is ideal for motion capture or to be more specific - sports motion capture like a javelin throw or discus throw or a sprint? What are the ideal settings in terms of fps, resolution. Many of them are using RX10. Any inputs

Nicely done

Thanks! and thanks for the feedback.

Hallarious, I just got my a7iv yesterday played with it for 30min next day playing with settings and this multi click on single shot now happens to tomorrow I will try and find which setting

That's a shame. I would have expected a modern lens with internal focus/zoom would have resolved the zoom creep issue. In a previous thread someone asked about locking the zoom ring on this lens - it never occurred to me that zoom creep might be the cause, though in hindsight that's all it can be. @Nicola, You can carry a roll of Gaffer's tape and tape the zoom ring to keep it from rotating but that's tedious. You can look for some wide rubber band that can straddle both the zoom ring and the lens barrel with good tension to lock the zoom ring in place. This arrangement should allow you to turn the zoom ring as you see fit, the trick is finding the rubber band or neoprene ring of appropriate size.

Spectacular scenery! Cutting in and out from one scenery to another, especially when you are going from say water to fire, I found it jarring. Maybe you can group each environment scenery more or less together and fade in and out of different environments. Edit out the real time snips of video on some of the clips, they do nothing to enhance the overall production.