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  1. Today
  2. Updated Help Guide: https://helpguide.sony.net/ilc/1830/v1/en/index.html
  3. Link: https://www.sony.com/electronics/support/e-mount-body-ilce-9-series/ilce-9 Notes: due to the large number of function updates all memory settings are lost so write down anything important. This includes memory settings stored on SD cards. They won’t work with v5. After allowing Sony Corporation software in the Security Settings (Mac), the SystemSoftwareUpdater did not start automatically. I found the app in the resources folder on the .dmg folder. It takes a while.
  4. so far I'm happy with the tamron lens. Still checking out focus speed and accuracy in different lighting conditions. At this point I don't have a Sony lens so I don't know how it compares.
  5. Yesterday
  6. Does it do this on AF-S mode as well? How far/close is the item that you are trying to focus on ? Also, make sure the lens is fully mounted on the camera, there is a click when it locks in correctly.
  7. Hello, I am a Nikon user and I plan to offer a serious photgraphic kit to a young lady who will soon be nominated Doctor in medicine. The Nikon D7500 is an option but I am a bit disapointed with the announcment compared to the D7200 I use myself. The other option is the Sony A7 ii kit but I want to extend the kit with some tele capacity. The Sony documentation on lenses/adapters compatibility is not very helpfull (understatement?). The best option I found is the Sony 55-300 wich I understand is a A mount. I know it is not full frame but that is OK for me. My question is: Would the Sony 55-300 and the adapter EA3 be OK with the A7 ii. Will the exposure control be OK ? But most important what about the autofocus? Should the 55-3000 body show the SAM word or is a SAL product good enough ? Thanks
  8. Aperture 2.8 Both live view and without The camera firmware is updated to the latest one
  9. Last week
  10. What aperture? Do you have Live view enabled? Do you have the latest camera and lens firmware?
  11. You're supposed to adjust for additional focal length by shortening the exposure time, in order to avoid motion blur. Some advise to take four times the focal length as the reciprocal of your exposure time. That would require a 1/3200th (or shorter!) at 2x400 = 800mm. You may want to give that a try. You may also re-visit this section of the user guide, related to "steady shot", for better results. (Adjust for the body you're using),
  12. Awesome to hear you got yours. My dealer told me mine is supposed to arrive this week which would be about right since I ordered mine a week after you placed your order. Fingers crossed.
  13. Nice shot, but it does have, to my eye, some loss of critical sharpness. I had the 1.4x and it performed nicely. But at my age, hand holding these long lenses is getting difficult, both in terms of weight and steadiness. I seem to do best with my 100-400 in the 300mm range.
  14. I have a focus problem with 70-200 2.8 g master Connected to alpha 7rm2, it's very difficult to focus, the servo keeps working to focus for a long time an 99 percent didn't get focused. I am working with AF-C focuses mode. Thanks for help.
  15. There is only one which matches both a9 and 100-400. It's the SEL20TC.
  16. Chrissie,  I need to humbly ask for some advice.  I have the Sony a7iii with the Zeiss Batis 85mm lens.  I want to get either a 24mm or 35mm lens to take with me to Alaska.  Instead of me buying a lens to find out I bought the wrong one, knowing that I have the 85mm lens, which of the two lens do you  think I should get?

     

    1. Chrissie

      Chrissie

      Hi FLHTC,

      I have the 16-35 GM myself, and find me shooting at the wide end more often than at the "far" end, especially when shooting landscapes. And Alaska does sound like lots of landscape to me. 8-)

      I'd definitely pick the 24 - if I had to chose from the two you mention.

      Enjoy your trip, and I expect to see some results 😉

      Chris

  17. This sounds pretty bogus. I don't think I'm sending my documents to someone else! And which store is Dizzy talking about. Something doesn't pass the sniff test here.
  18. UPDATE I went ahead and bought the cage anyway and low and behold it fit!
  19. Just an update, I finally updated the software on my Sony A7iii camera to the latest version and now the SanDisk cards that did not work in slot 1 before, now do work in slot 1. . Looks like the Sony software upgrade did the trick.
  20. I am also a Fuji user having the XT-20 with the 18-55MM f2.8-4 and the 35mm f2 , I have just purchased the original A7 simply because it was a great price here in Spain at 730euros and I wanted you use my late uncle's 50 year old Leica-r 50mm f2 Summicron with it. I had looked at getting the fuji XT1 /2 as I wanted a separate camera for the Leica but the A7 wasn't much more so for me it was a no brainer. I will continue to use my Fuji system but look forward to seeing the results from my new combination and I may add a macro lens to the A7 but all in good time.
  21. I’m sure the OP has long made his/her choice but I’ll add my 2 cents for those who may still be on the fence. And truth be told there’s a lot between these two lens to be on the fence about. I rented both lens’s before I bought. Here is my rationale for choosing the 24-105: I love to be wide and the difference between 24 and 28 is (at least for me, substantial). The longer reach of the 105 over the 75 of the Tamron not as much but since the 24-105 seems wonderfully sharp all the way out to 105, why not. I won’t use it as often but like I said....why not? The Sony auto focus is faster although not substantially so but (and this’ll be an intangible) somehow feels better/works better. I can’t give a pragmatic explanation but it was there when I had both lens’s for comparison. By no means a deal breaker but “a thing” none the less. The OSS on the Sony lens is uncannily good. For run and gun and hand-held low light situations I’m surprise (at times shocked) at what I can get away with. This most likely was the moment and reason I couldn’t go back to the Tamron. Not to dismiss the Tamron in any way. It’s really spectacular. It’s tack, tack sharp. It has a great color profile. I believe it was a tad lighter. It’s cheaper and it’ll open up to 2.8 (although i’m not sure for my own personal purposes the OSS doesn’t outweigh the extra stop of light). I guess an argument could be made the the a Tamron might be better at shallower DOF but that would be dependent on shooting style and needs. In the end I think either of these lens’s are as good or better than I am and it’d think it impossible to go wrong with either. For me however the Sony was a better choice.
  22. Hi, I know this might be a bit controversial, but I thought I'd share my my experiences of geo-tagging with the A7Rii. Ever since the release of the first DLSRs I've always wanted a 35mm Full Frame sized detector. I've just traded my Pentax kit in for a Sony A7Rii; I was looking at the A7Riii, but felt I couldn't justify the extra expense. The one thing that the Pentax body had was a built in GPS receiver that wasn't too heavy on the battery and always locked on to a signal pretty quick. It was excellent for geo-tagging photographs. I was a bit disappointed that Sony cameras didn't have built in GPS, but realised that there was a way round it. (1) I started by using 'PlayMemories Mobile' on my Smart Phone and 'PlayMemories Home' on my MAC. This I found was using the Smart Phone as a remote. I found that a GPS log was recorded on the SD card in the camera and when the photographs where imported onto the MAC using 'PlayMemories Home' that the GPS data was saved in the Photographs metadata. Even though the Smart Phone was acting as a remote I could still use the camera for taking photographs. The disadvantage Geo-tagging this way was that the Camera view finder is disabled and the only option is to frae the subject using the rear view screen. (2). I have already been using an app on the MAC called 'GPX Photo Tagger'. This allows photographs to be loaded, together with a captured GPX log, and providing the times and dates from the log match the times and dates on the photographs the photographs can be saved with the location data in the metafile. I found an app called 'GPS Tracker' to track me when I'm out and it can export a GPX file I can use. This isn't as neat and the first option, but at least I can use the camera view finder. (3) The third option I haven't tried yet is to use some apps called 'GPS4CAM' for the MAC and 'GPS4CAM Pro' for the Smart Phone. This is basically the same the second option above, but involves taking a photographs of a bar code to match the photographs. I haven't looked too deeply into this as an option but the development of the desktop app has stopped and the next update to the MAC OS won't support 32-bit apps, only 64-bit, and I'm not sure which the desktop version is. I don't want to waste time if in a few months I can't use it. All in all, I think the first option is the preferred route if I could use the camera view finder. Failing that the second option is the route I'm using until something better comes along. Steve.
  23. I've had my Alpha 6000 for about 4 years .. shutter has failed .. is it worth sending for repair or better to buy new camera ? Thank you
  24. Just updated to 3.21 and everything went smoothly. Glad of that and will have to see if AF has improved. I use AF sometimes so it was worth the update.
  25. Took this last summer in SOHO, New York. Sony A7III Tamron 28-75mm 75mm f2.8 1/320 ISO 200 https://www.instagram.com/elgopro/
  26. Paypal doesn't usually care about proof of previous purchase. Why are they asking you to do that?
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