All Activity

Welcome to forum, a7Riv is really good if you need a lot of megapixels & do a lot of high/low angle shots, but I would try to see what a7iv is about - though it will probably have articulating screen rather than tilt like on a7Riv. A1 is pretty good.

I should add that Minolta made other 28mm lenses -- from f3.5 to f2.0. The 2.0 version is pretty amazing.

Hi, have you made some results in using the new camera API?

All of Minolta's EIGHT 28mm f2.8 lenses used the same 7/7 optical design except the last one -- a 5/5 design which may not have been made by Minolta. Details at: http://www.subclub.org/minman/2828.htm

Hello guys My Halloween mini movie with a7sii

The internal battery is probably the problem. I have been charging the batteries in an external charger for a long time and the problem has almost always appeared. After charging the battery inside the camera with the usb cable, the problem is fixed. I left the camera connected for 24 hours.

Few days ago, I bought Minolta MD W.ROKKOR 28mm 2.8 (version with 49mm thread) and Revuenon AUTO REVUENON MC 50mm 1.7 (thread 49mm). I would not compare it to modern lenses now. During few days, I was able to see (late afternoon; sunset time, and middle of the day), some great capabilities of those. At low(er) light, results are still good, details are visible clearly. Of course, at "full" daylight; sunny day; all looks very clear, sharp, detailed, Minolta's minimum focus distance is ~1feet. Revuenon photos are with nicely defined details as well. Took photos of autumn leaves (using both lenses, and Canon FD 50mm 1.8), rosehips at forest, great colors and details. Both lenses are well built, strong, got them in very good shape. At gallery here I put just few photos taken by Revuenon, with A7II (photos created just for testing lenses). The only thing required prior to start shooting is to set Steadyshot to proper numbers at Sony camera.

Like to know if anyone has focus problems with this lens, thanks

Helicopter Compo made with own photos, front taken with Batis 18 and backgrown (2 pics) taken with Sony FE 100-400

Sounds like your camera is set to APS-C mode. Which lens are you using? If it's an APS-C lens, your camera will automatically engage crop mode. It may also be enabled manually.

Hi, I'm reading everywhere that the A7S iii does shoot in 12 MP at the largest JPEG setting at 3:2, but on mine all I get is 5.1MP for some reason in 3:2, all the other modes don't show 12 MP either. In manual mode so not sure what I'm doing wrong or if some setting is disabled?

Thanks for that tip. Screen brightness is something to consider -- especially since most of my lenses are not "fast". As to the special tool, I don't need it. The screen is pretty easy to remove with a small screwdriver and a pair of tweezers -- I've done it before. It's much easier than with the older Minolta screens, but it is important to be careful, of course.

According to Gary's book, the M screen is not as bright as the G screen. Do you have the special tool for removing and inserting the screens?

Thanks very much. I have not heard of Gary's book, but I will definitely check it out. As to the screen, you have confirmed my suspicion. Since the screens are not difficult to remove, I'll just take it out and check it visually. It sounds like the M screen is the better screen even if you don't have "fast" lenses. I had assumed it should only be used if your have fast lenses.

I had the same thought.

So, to find out which focusing screen is installed without removing the screen, take a photo of an 18% gray card with a camera you trust. Then photograph the gray card with your a900 set to G screen and with it set to M screen. The photo whose exposure matches the photo taken with the camera you trust will be the one set to the screen you have installed.

If you are interested, here is the link to Gary Friedman's web site: https://www.friedmanarchives.com/Alpha900/

Gary Friedman devotes three whole pages to explaining the three different focusing screens (concentrating on the M screen), explaining the history behind the M screen, and explaining how best to use it. See pages 57-60 in Chapter 2 of Gary Friedman's excellent book, "The Complete Guide to Sony's Alpha 850 & 900". Mr. Friedman has excellent books on all of Sony's still cameras.

FYI, the bulb being reflected in the second photo is a clear bare incandescent bulb.

I just swapped out the G screen for the M screen in my a900. Unfortunately, there is no visible difference between the two in the viewfinder. There is a difference in exposure, however, if you don't have the correct screen selected. The exposure for my test scene with the G screen was 1/40 at f/5.6. If I changed the menu to indicate the M screen instead, the exposure changed to 1/60 at f/5.6. With the M screen installed and M selected in the menu, the exposure returned to 1/40 at f/5.6. For what it's worth, I have attached two images of the two screens below -- G screen on top and M screen on the bottom. The first image clearly shows the difference in the upper tab on the right. The second image shows the difference in the reflection of my work light. The reflection in the G screen is more focused and shows a definite interference pattern. The reflection in the M screen is more diffuse and the interference pattern is much less distinct.

There is very little info on these even in the books i looked at. See attached a picture of the instructions sheet that came with my FDA-FM1AM and as you can see it shows both the FM1AM and FL1AM and if you look closely, you will notice there are tabs all around and the ones on the right side are a different shape. I don't have a picture of the G screen but my guess is the G screen will have a differently shaped tab on its right side also giving it its differentiation. My M screen has that tab shaped exactly like on the drawing trouble is to see that, you need to remove the original screen from the camera as it is hidden behind the frame that holds it down Let us know if you see a difference

Thanks, but I'm not trying to figure out how to set the screen type in the menu. The G screen is the standard screen. The M screen makes it easier to check "peak focus" (whatever that means) with faster f-stop lenses (ex. f1.4, f2.8) according to the manual. I'm trying to figure out what screen I have without having to take out the screen. I know I don't have the L screen because that has a visible grid. If the G and M screens look exactly the same in the viewfinder, them I'll have to take out the screen to see. I'm hoping that there is some minor difference that can be seen in the viewfinder, but I have no idea what that is??????

I don't know about the G screen (is that the screen that comes with the camera?), but I have an M screen (FDA-FM1AM), and it has no markings whatsoever. It is a fully unmarked "ground glass" type focusing screen. I assume you want to know how to set the focusing screen type in the tool menu, <tool3> -> <Focusing Screen> ? Otherwise, if you assume that option is set correctly, you can just look there!

What kind of animal are you trying to track? Animal eye AF works better on some animals than on others (dogs and cats work best).