Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by Pieter

  1. If your camera was in A-mode and you got iso 12000 without you knowing why, A-mode is beyond your skill-level of the camera (and technical photography in general). iso 12000 will get you a really ugly picture on the rx100 (or just about any camera). The reason you hot this high iso-value is that you likely chose a really small aperture (high aperture number). Stick to auto-mode and your pictured will turn out much nicer.
  2. Wasn't your question answered in your previous thread? This is exactly the same question. If you want help, you really need to be more specific. Selfie could have the same problem as last time: you initiate self timer while standing behind the camera. The camera focusses on the background. You move in front of the camera but camera won't refocus before exposure. Result: blurry selfie.
  3. I think it's the general consensus that the FE 50 f/1.8 is by far the worst native Sony lens. That being said, some people argue it's still decent value for money.
  4. Hence my honest question. In the very rare occasion that I want to focus on something else than ones eyes when photographing a face, I'd likely use single spot AF of MF even. Eye-AF is just a more advanced version of face AF and can't work without face AF being active simultaneously.
  5. Just out of pure curiosity, why would you want face AF without Eye-AF? I have an a6500 where I have face detect off by default to prevent the camera from locking on to faces when I don't want it to. Eye-AF is under the AEL-button. By pressing it, face detect is also engaged automatically. I like this setup due to its flexibility but can't really think of a situation where I'd want face detect without Eye-AF (or care about it if my camera chose to lock on to an eye anyway during face detect)...
  6. I can see how people were offended by him and admittedly he was stretching it a bit every now and then, but honestly I found most of his posts amusing. People generally just failed to see the irony in them and took him too seriously. I don't know what post tipped the bucket for him but I remember some of his last posts where he got in an argument with Jaf Photo, Jaf refusing to post some of his work as proof of being an experienced photographer. Jaf instead returned the question to username, who in turn posted 15 pages of his photo's. To me that was quite hilarious though many were annoyed by it.
  7. Your a6400 indeed came with most of these features on the original firmware. I don't own one though so can't direct you to the settings. Please consult the product manual for that.
  8. It would help to be a bit more specific... What do you mean by 'this'? If you mean to refer to the firmware update in todays SAR entry, please read the subject title again.
  9. Yea I miss him too. Always an answer with a fresh perspective. Though most people didn't like his answers 😆
  10. This is not a very busy forum but one with some active and experienced users willing to make an effort to provide as good an answer as they can to your questions. In the various threads you were involved in I can see people did the same for you Johnhoward28. If you don't like the speed or efficiency at which answers are provided, this is indeed not the place for you.
  11. A good alternative to the Sigma would also be the upcoming Tamron 17-28 f/2.8, combining a fast aperture with a modest price point. Should be available in a couple of weeks and doesn't need an adapter.
  12. a6400 is identical to a6300. a6500 is slightly thicker due to bigger grip.
  13. The MC-11 adapter converts lenses with a Canon EF-mount to Sony E-mount. If you get the Sony-version, it'll come with an A-mount. For that you'll need the Sony LA-EA3 or LA-EA4. Autofocus performance and general functionality will be better with the Canon version plus MC-11, as this combination is supported by Sigma. Do keep in mind that the 18-35 f/1.8 is an APS-C lens. You might want to consider the fullframe 24-35 f/2 instead on your A7iii.
  14. Do you have the 16-50, 18-55 or 18-135 f/3.5-5.6? I guess for your purposes I'd recommend the 18-135 but it's still not a lowlight monster. The 18-105 f/4 is slightly faster at the long end but is also slightly bigger when not in use (it doesn't extend when zooming). For the price I'd advise against the Sony/Zeiss 16-70 f/4, which performs similar to the 18-105 f/4 at a 50% higher price. There are no other fast native zoom lenses for the a6000 unless you resort to bulky and pricey fullframe lenses.
  15. I'll have to rectify my previous post a bit: some lenses have a moving rear element, such as my E 55-210mm. The rear element moves outward when zooming in, thus creating underpressure in the sensor chamber. Out of pure curiosity and a scientific mindset I taped off the rear side of the lens to see if I could create a vacuum between the rear lens element and the tape. I couldn't, indicating that there must be a vent in the lens which lets in external air into the rear part (and thus into the sensor chamber). Removing the tape and holding my hand over the rear side of the lens while rapidly zooming in and out, I could feel some airflow against my hand. Air that would normally be blown right onto the sensor. I guess the air is sucked in through the tight seams in the lens so I wouldn't really worry about big dust particles, but it seems plausible that lenses with a moving rear element might pump some air (and dust) onto your sensor.
  16. I guess Wally is right to some extent: if a telescopic lens were airtight then extending or collapsing it would change the enclosed volume and thereby create internal under- or overpressure. The lens would pretty much act like a spring: you would be able to extend it a little bit but it would revert back to its original position when released to equalize internal and external pressure. That being said, like I mentioned in my previous post, it is indeed nonsense to claim that a telescopic lens pumps external air into the camera body. It does take in air when extended but this is blown out the same way when collapsed. Telescopic zoom lenses generally do increase the chance of getting dust inside the lens if not properly sealed against dust. Fixed barrel zoom lenses like the 70-200 G(M) and the 18-105 G don't suck in external air so much when zoomed, so these lenses are less prone to getting dust inside the lens.
  17. Nice analogy Tinplater, I'll keep that in mind when trying to explain this to people. Sorry for off-topic but in my opinion the RX0 is a serious offender here as it states on the lens 4/24, which is just wrong any way you look at it (it has a 7.7mm f/4 lens). People new to photo-/videography have no concept of fullframe equivalence so a converted focal length is meaningless to them (as it is to people who only ever used an APS-C camera and therefore only know an 'APS-C equivalent' field of view). Experienced photo-/videographers on the other hand know perfectly well how to apply a crop-factor for their reference so writing a 'FF-equivalent focal length' on the lens as if it is a fact is nonsensical for them as well: they might think the camera produces a FF-equivalent field of view of a (24mm x 3.1 = ) 74mm lens. It would be much more informative to write the actual focal length/aperture accompanied by the sensor size on the camera instead. Sony adds to this confusion by doing it differently on the RX0 vs the RX10(0) (where they state the actual focal length on the lens rather than a FF equivalent).
  18. I think this is a bad idea: the shutter is a very fragile and meticulous piece of hardware. The glass cover of the sensor is much less susceptible to damage, much easier to clean and if it does get damaged likely cheaper to fix than the shutter assembly. Besides, dust would still get on the shutter blades and be released into the camera as soon as the shutter is actuated.
  19. Please stop spreading this confusion / misconception. A 50 mm lens is a 50 mm lens, no matter what body you mount it on. The focal length is a property of the lens, not of the body. You make it sound like a 50 mm fullframe lens behaves differently on an APS-C body than a 50 mm APS-C lens. This confuses a lot of people who are just getting into photography.
  20. Zoom lenses don't pump air into the camera, they pump air from the outside into the lens and back the same way. This sounds like just the thing for you. No need for a DIY workaround with adapters.
  21. Hi SelfieMatt, Might want to post this in the APS-C section instead of Fullframe. That being said, I suggested you buy this filter in your previous thread. Like I said there, with this filter on your camera won't be able to focus beyond ~30cm in front of the lens (depending a bit on focal length). Try to see at what subject distance you're able to manually focus. With good light, autofocus should also work in that range albeit a bit slow. If you want to focus further away, remove the filter. Since your depth of field is razor thin, it's best to focus manually in macro-range anyway. What I tend to do is zoom to the max (210 mm), do some coarse manual focussing and then fine-tune the focus by moving the camera slightly forward or backward while using magnified live view.
  22. Might want to post this in the fullframe lenses section instead of APS-C.
  23. Does the white LED on the i40 start blinking while the flash is mounted on your a6000, whith the camera on? If so the problem should be in the flash settings of the camera. Try changing those a bit (set flash mode to fill instead of rear or front curtain), maybe reset the i40 if it doesn't work the first time. It really should work that way. Maybe also check this movie for reference:
  24. Your post just seemed like a pointless complaint so I responded in an equivalent manner. And I guess it's part jealousy from my side that my APS-C flagship a6500 doesn't get any firmware upgrade. I especially like the real time eye-af without button press. Anyhow, seems like your complaint has been heard. March 25 is still March by my definition.
  25. Sorry, I messed up there, did it out of memory which apparently let me down. The option is indeed not in the camera, it's hidden in the flash unit itself. Put the flash on and in auto (A) setting. Now press and hold the colored LED next to the power button for about 4 seconds. The white LED next to the (A) wil start blinking, which means the flash is in HSS mode. On your camera you'll now see that shutterspeeds faster than 1/160 are unlocked. Dotake note that the flash power goes down in HSS mode as it fires a relatively long burst rather than 1 very short high power flash. Only part of the long burst is recorded by the camera sensor instead of the full flash.
  • Create New...