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Everything posted by Pieter

  1. Did you format the new SD cards in your camera? You should, or they won't work.
  2. What is your 'default lens'? I suggest you try the Sony 55-210mm OSS: it's fairly cheap but has all the bells and whistles (AF, stabilisation, OK image quality). I doubt it'll be sufficient for subjects 1-2km away though: will be good only for identifying subjects. And then rises the question: do you need AF? If yes, your budget needs to be expanded considerably compared to the 55-210 and I doubt these options qualify as a 'cheap zoom len' to you. If no, maybe @XKAES can help you find a decent option.
  3. Maybe admin moved your post to the correct sub-forum? Your post is right here: https://www.sonyalphaforum.com/topic/15774-how-to-remove-camera-information-when-using-a5100-as-webcam/
  4. Based on your movie, your camera doesn't ask to set date and time when starting with cable. That would be a telltale sign of a dead internal battery, so now I have doubts that is your issue. Hmm, tough nut to crack...
  5. May be due to a dead internal battery. Try inserting a genuine Sony battery and let it charge over night using the USB-cord that came supplied with your camera. Only once the NP-FW50 battery is fully charged through the USB-cable, the internal battery starts charging (if it's not broken).
  6. Can you post one of these 'poor quality' pics with the EXIF info? Hard to judge what's wrong based on your post. Does the camera still take crappy pics while in full auto (green) mode? Sounds to me something like ISO is fixed instead of automatic. In full auto, all settings are chosen by the camera so you can't accidentally have a setting fixed at an inappropriate value. You're mentioning a shutter speed issue while in A-mode, referencing a previously set shutter speed. Shutter speed is reset when switching to A-mode, so it's irrelevant what shutter speed you set before.
  7. I ment loose exactly in that sense: the Sony 200-600 has extremely little inertia when zooming, and not a lot of friction on the zoom ring either. While this may be a pro if you want to quickly zoom with just a flick of your fingertips, it also makes the lens prone to accidental changes of focal length.
  8. The fact that the zoom direction on Sigma lenses is opposite to Sony lenses is often a complaint about Sigma lenses rather than Sony lenses: would have made more sense of Sigma copied the default zoom direction of 1st party lenses. But I understand your struggle. Theres pros and cons to the loose zoom ring I guess. Many reviewers love the fact that they can quickly zoom the 200-600 with just their finger tips, while simultaneously the lens shows zero zoom creem. Quite a feat by Sony engineers, but at the risk of accidentally changing the focal length. Would have been awesome if they'd included a dial for varying the stiffness of the zoom ring.
  9. Alas times two: - actually because of the internal zoom design, this lens is totally unsusceptible to zoom creep. Therefore it doesn't need a zoom lock (except for your purpose) - focal length is only shown in the viewfinder with power zoom lenses. No clue why: mechanical zoom lenses also transmit focal length to the body (it's needed for proper IBIS and is also shown in the file info when reviewing photos). I guess the easiest way to be sure you're at 600mm is to just feel the hard stop of the zoom ring before taking the shot.
  10. You'd need an ADP-MAA adapter. https://electronics.sony.com/imaging/imaging-accessories/all-accessories/p/adpmaa
  11. Not to mention it's much easier to remove dust and goo from your sensor without causing damage than it is to remove sticky stuff from the shutter blades without bending them. This is exactly the reason why the default setting is to leave the shutter open when the camera is off, and Sony advises to leave it at that. The only reason they added this option to the premium cameras is to silence the critics complaining 'Canon has it!'
  12. The filter won't protect your lens from breaking in case of a full frontal collision, but the metal ring of the filter (and also the lens hood when used) will absorb a lot of impact energy when the lens is hit along the outer rim (which is usually the case). The filter is also there to prevent abrasion of the front element during cleaning and to prevent salt spray etc from eating into your lens coatings. If you buy good quality multicoated filters, the effect on image quality usually is imperceptible (less than 0.2% light loss, no additional ghosting/flare/coma). A weathered front element / coating on your lens will also degrade image quality. A filter is easily replaced once it starts to show wear, unlike a front lens element. Due to the extremely monochromatic light emitted by aurora borealis, this is indeed a very specific case where the use of filters might do more harm than good. Especially when cheap filters without proper antireflective coatings are used.
  13. Have you considered the A7C? It has the compactness of the A6600 and the fullframe sensor of the A7III. Your question actually has a lot to it so I feel Olafs point. If the two options you mention is all that's relevant to you, the A6600 + 16-55 f/2.8 will likely give you better results in terms of image quality. Coming from a DSLR however you may either be looking for something more compact (A6600 or A7C) or you may find these compact options too uncomfortable and prefer something more DSLR-like in the hand (A7III). Something else to consider is future upgrade path: APS-C has a fairly limited and slowly expanding lens selection but the selection is pretty decent and complete nonetheless. The lens selection for fullframe is a lot bigger and growing by the day. I personally went for compactness a while back and bought an APS-C camera. The A7C got me tempted to switch to fullframe, were it not for the tiny viewfinder and lack of controls on that camera: the A6600 has a bigger viewfinder and 4 more custom buttons than the A7C (but lacks an extra control wheel). Curious what the A7CII will look like, whenever it comes.
  14. Are the spots always in the same place? Can you post a screenshot of a frame with a spot?
  15. If you don't mind subjecting yourself to lead ingestion then yes, that's what you should do. The lead in crystal leaches into the liquids it holds, especially acidic ones like wine. There's a reason this stuff is starting to get banned...
  16. What are your other criteria except a price under $4k? Do you need/use the high MP count of the A7R-series? In what aspects do you feel your old camera could be improved?
  17. I dare argue that 'sterile look on new lenses' is not neccesarily due to the type of glass used but more due to the complex computational optical designs and vastly improved techniques of molding aspherical glass or grinding to a precision of 0.01 micron. The lack of optical defects in the best modern lenses is lusted after by some in a strive for optical perfection, yet dismissed by others as sterile and with a lack of character. To each their own.
  18. Also consider the new A7iv. It has a lot of the A9ii except the 20 fps silent shutter. If you really value that, get the A9ii. Otherwise the A7iv may be just as nice for half the price.
  19. For slightly moving subjects like the bird in the other pic, you may also try AF-C and focus area set to Expand Flexible Spot. The camera may fail to achieve focus on a fully black bird due to lack of contrast. Expand Flexible Spot allows the camera to use the focus points around the initial focus spot to achieve focus. Try some of these settings and see what gives the best results. Metering doesn't matter for focussing, you can set it to anything you like. Center or spot metering is tricky as it may result in vastly over-/underexposed images if your focus subject is very bright or dark (like the black bird).
  20. In conditions like these, with AF-C and area set to wide, the camera will usually focus on a contrasty object close to the camera. I'm not at all surprised it picked the foliage over the bird. The camera doesn't know you want to focus on the bird so you'll have to tell it very specifically.
  21. Did your camera agree that you were focussing on the Honeyeater? What focussing mode did you use? In cases like this where your subject may be obscured by foliage in front, I tend to use single spot AF. Tracking AF might get confused by stuff in front of your subject.
  22. Sounds like your camera is set to APS-C mode. Which lens are you using? If it's an APS-C lens, your camera will automatically engage crop mode. It may also be enabled manually.
  23. What kind of animal are you trying to track? Animal eye AF works better on some animals than on others (dogs and cats work best).
  24. Yet the water level in the vessels of the first and second group would be exactly the same (on average). This is exactly what defines exposure: light (or water) captured per unit area in a given amount of time, resulting in a certain 'fill level' of the vessel. To continue on your analogy: due to uneven distribution of rainfall (or photons), the benefit of larger vessels is that there will be much less variance in the fill level of each vessel, whereas with small vessels some will be filled much more than others. The smaller vessels will therefore give more 'noise' in the readout and show a poorer representation of actual local rain intensity per unit area. Even more so if you multiply the contents of each vessel (amplify exposure by raising ISO). Why don't you try it yourself? Grab a 24MP A6#00-camera and put it side by side to a 12MP A7S. The pixels of the A7S will be almost 5 times the surface area of those from the A6#00, but if you dial in the same exposure parameters (ISO, aperture, shutter speed), the resulting image will have the same histogram. Yet the image from the A7S will look much cleaner on high ISO-values.
  25. Ehm no, that is not how photographic exposure works: exposure is not determined by total light per pixel but light per surface area. If you get a correct exposure at ISO100, 1/100 sec f/16, this is unaffected by sensor size or pixel density. Be it a hypothetical 12MP medium format camera or a 50MP smartphone: exposure parameters are the same for correct exposure.
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