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Pieter

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Everything posted by Pieter

  1. Have a read at that link I posted, some good ones there. Filters always affect image quality, but good quality filters have such incredibly small influence that - in my opinion - the influence is negligible. Some people however just don't accept anything that might affect image quality. Filters are not for them.
  2. It's not possible: that green square is an autofocus-confirmation box. If autofocus is disabled, the camera is not searching for eyes/faces so there won't be any green boxes. Focus magnification on the eyes might help in your case, though you need a model standing fairly still for this to work.
  3. You can, with a Metabones or Sigma MC-11 adapter. Results may vary in terms of autofocus, so check the web a bit on which adapter works best for your lenses. The adapters aren't cheap however and some of your old lenses are designed for APS-C format, so maybe you'd be better off just selling those and buying E-mount glass. Since you're not new to photography I assume you know the pros and cons of primes and zooms, and you know which focal lengths you like. I don't know your budget, but Samyang offers some cheap but great value for money primes, like the 45mm f/1.8 and 35mm f/1.8.
  4. For camera-based image stabilization (IBIS) to work, the camera needs to know the focal length of the lens in use*. The LA-EA2 transfers EXIF so the camera should be able to stabilize the image. If the lens also has stabilized optics, it might conflict with IBIS so you'll have to turn one off. *Even lenses without EXIF-transmission can use IBIS if you manually set the focal length of the lens.
  5. You're making quite a lot of errors there in your reasoning, which leads you to false conclusions. Let's set things straight: You should really differentiate between two critical things here: sensor area and megapixel count. FF sensor area is 35.9 mm × 24.0 mm = 862 mm² APS-C sensor area is 23.6 mm × 15.7 mm = 371 mm² M4/3 sensor area is 17.3 mm × 13.0 mm = 225 mm² From this you can see APS-C is 43.0% of FF sensor area, M4/3 is 26.1% of FF sensor area. An A7R3 has 42.18 effective MP. If you put it in APS-C mode, that should yield 42.18 × 43.0% = 18.1 MP. Not
  6. The 'barrel distortion' you refer to is in fact not barrel distortion but perspective distortion due to the wide angle lens you're using. There's no fix for that except using the longest focal length possible within the spatial constraints of your room. If I were you I'd get a fast (because of indoor shooting) zoom lens (for versatility), like the Tamron 28-75 F/2.8. That way you can find the optimal focal length for your use case without sacrificing too much in low-light performance.
  7. How can anyone but you decide which lenses to keep? We don't know your budget, use cases, storage space, bag size, tolerance to carrying heavy stuff around, tolerance of spouse to your excessive spendings, etcetera etcetera. If you really like that 16mm, you can sell everything else for all I care. Or keep it for you might one day find out you actually like 30mm and/or 56mm as well. Sell the 18-105, the Sigma primes are so much better! No wait, keep it: you might occasionally want to get some smooth zoom-action in your footage. It balances nicely on gimbals with that internal zoom as well
  8. How do you transfer the image from camera to phone? I believe that if you use the Sony software, the image is downscaled quite a lot during transfer. That might be the cause of your pixelated image.
  9. How is it any different from cropping in the RAW file? You're loosing resolution either way.
  10. As far as I know it's not possible. But it is totally possible to crop the JPEG in your phone. No RAW-editing or external soft-/hardware required whatsoever.
  11. yes, distortion is about zero at 20mm and pincushion at 24. https://www.cameralabs.com/tamron-17-28mm-f2-8-di-iii-review/3/
  12. Why exactly would you want an A7S over a regular A7? If you really want to go fullframe, rely on autofocus a lot and don't primarily do video, I'd only consider an A7III. Any of the older bodies are a downgrade (or sidegrade at best) compared to your A6000 when it comes to autofocus. This might be beyond your budget so you should really ask yourself: 'do I want to go fullframe?' But I guess the more important question is: 'in what sense do I feel my A6000 is holding me back the most?'. Only then is it possible to answer the question if migrating to fullframe is a sensible investment in your ca
  13. Given the fact that your lenses are stabilized, I guess a camera with sensor-based stabilisation isn't worth the extra investment in your case. This leaves the A6100 and A6400 as replacement options for your A6000. Both offer significantly better autofocus than the A6000 but only marginally better image quality. Get the A6400 if you value good build quality (some weather resistance, magnesium alloy body and better EVF). If you're fine with the build quality of the A6000, get the A6100 and save some money. The metal mount baffles already are a big improvement in the A6100 over the plastic
  14. They will work but only in 'crop mode', meaning you'll only use about half the area of the fullframe sensor. Sounds like an issue with auto-EVF toggle. Did you try taking off the eyepiece and giving the proximity sensor a good cleaning? It's a tiny black square right beside the EVF. If that doesn't work, try turning off auto switching monitor/viewfinder. If you often use the EVF, perhaps map a custom key to toggle between the two.
  15. What do you mean by 'AS-series'? You mean A7S? Unless you invested in fullframe lenses, your current APS-C lenses will be pretty much useless on a 12MP A7S. In what regard is your A6000 lacking? Pretty hard to advise anyone without knowing what he's looking for or what his specific use case is. Anyone can say 'I have camera X and I love it, so you should buy it'.
  16. It's a bit more complicated that that. Easiest way is to think of the maximum magnification factor of your lens: new magnification = native magnification + extension / focal length For example, you have a 50 mm lens with a native magnification of 1:5 and a 36mm extension tube. New magnification becomes: 1/5 + 36mm/50mm = 0.92× (instead of 0.2× originally). As you'll notice, for longer focal length lenses you'll need a lot more extension tube to gain the same magnification increase than with shorter focal length lenses. If you're really interested, have a read here:
  17. I'm using filters on my lenses for the following reasons: - If you buy good quality filters, the impact on the optical quality of the lens in my opinion is negligible (like 0.3% light loss and almost zero additional ghosting/flare). - I clean my lenses quite often. Even when first blowing/brushing off dust before a wet wipe, you'll inadvertedly cause abrasion on the front element. In time, the degradation of the coating on this element will have adverse effects on image quality as well. Replacing a front filter is cheap, replacing a front lens element not so much. - Don't exp
  18. They are compatible. Perhaps you made a typo there as you're saying the same thing twice but contradicting: And: If the second time you actually ment to say 'I can only adjust it manually on the lens', did you try setting the aperture ring on your lens to the orange 'A'-marker? It's right beside F/16. This gives aperture control to the camera.
  19. It does, adding tubes makes both the minimum and maximum focus distance closer.
  20. It is in fact extremely sharp in the center wide open but the corners lag behind. Needs stopping down to f/4 or f/5.6 to get uniform (outstanding) sharpness.
  21. Out of curiosity: why would you consider the Sony Zeiss 35mm f/2.8 over the Sony 35mm f/1.8? Haven't used the A7Rii but if you're coming from a DSLR you'll find that all the manual focus aids on mirrorless cameras will help tremendously in acquiring proper focus. Plus the Loxias have a manual focus ring with distance and DoF indicator.
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