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Pieter last won the day on December 23 2019

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About Pieter

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  1. Do make sure to shoot the test chart with the camera axis exactly perpendicular to the chart. Based on the keystone shape of the chart, you didn't shoot it perpendicular. Otherwise the focal plane is not aligned with the test chart and you get inaccurate decentering results.
  2. Did you have temperature warnings before the mods?
  3. It's possible, I have my camera configured that way but it's not an A7Riii so can't guide you through the menu. It's under custom button settings. Because the lens has no electronic contacts, the camera doesn't know you're trying to focus.
  4. That is totally acceptable, but it is quite discouraging to answer your questions if you're totally unresponsive to people who are trying to help you.
  5. Based on your observations I checked mine and it does the same. It's a fairly mute sound so haven't ever payed attention to it. Your theory sounds plausible, I feel a very mild shake in the camera at the same time, so something is indeed moving. I'd say it's perfectly normal.
  6. Your want/need list isn't very specific: do you prefer primes or zooms, do you want a fast aperture? Without knowing much, I'd suggest you try the A7iii with the Sony 24-105 mm f/4: great quality and versatile zoom. Add the Sony 85 mm f/1.8 if you really enjoy portraiture. Alternatively, get the Tamron 28-75 f/2.8: not overly expensive, compact and fast aperture.
  7. Always or occasionally? About once every couple of weeks the camera takes a photo with the shutter closed when you turn it off, to map hot pixels on the sensor. This should only be occasionally but otherwise acts as you describe.
  8. I too first envied the realtime eye AF in the newest camera's, without having to hold the eye-AF button as it is in the a6500. Now I've come to love eye-AF on a button. I always have face detect set to Off, to avoid the situations you described. When you then press and hold the eye-AF button, it simultaneously engages face detect. This way face detect doesn't interfere when you don't want it to but it's right there when you need it. Totally agree with your idea that eye/face detect should be affected by zone focussing, makes no sense that it doesn't.
  9. Is this a question or a notification? Did you make sure the camera was in A(perture) or M(anual) mode? Make sure to set the lens aperture ring to A(utomatic) to make sure you can change the aperture from the camera.
  10. It should indeed only affect RAW-images. Out-of-camera JPEGs are corrected for lens distortion if you enable it in camera.
  11. Sony camera's do tend to drain the battery even when powered off. After about a month a full battery might be close to flat when left in a camera that had zero use.
  12. The first one is a difficult shot: your camera tends to focus on the closest high-contrast subject it can find, which in this case might be the arch in front of the tree. Better use point focus and put it on the tree to be sure focus is where you want it to be, instead of relying on 'focus area' set to wide.
  13. Poor battery life ans slow startup are natural to all mirrorless cameras compared to DSLR, no matter the brand. Startup time is improving with newer generations and battery life improved tremendously with the new Z100 battery (which is in the Sony A6600). That being said, I too dislike the consistent battery draining, even when not in the camera but more so when the battery is in the camera. I keep 3 spares with me at all times. The batteries are small so this shouldn't be a burden. Just something you need to get used to. With regard to the menus: there is indeed a lot of complaint about the Sony menus. They have improved a bit in newer generation cameras but it still takes some searching. Personally I really love the customizability of Sony cameras, and an extensive menu with gazilion of options adds to that. You can hotkey most options either to the Fn-button or to a custom button so you shouldn't need to dive through the menu while out in the field.
  14. There is no cheap zoom lens with a large aperture, especially if you want a stabilized (OSS) lens. There is the Sony 18-105 F/4 OSS powerzoom (generally considered a decent video lens) but that one is already around €500 and not any faster than what you have now. You'd best resort to prime lenses. Are you using a gimbal? If not then you'd likely want to use a stabilized lens as the a6000 has no stabilized sensor. Your search is now narrowed down to a fast prime with OSS and autofocus. For street videography, the Sony 35mm F/1.8 comes to mind (the APS-C version, not FE). Costs about €380. For a somewhat tighter field of view you might try the Sony 50mm F/1.8 OSS at €270. Can both be found second-hand for about 60% of the retail price. Try your 16-50 kit lens a bit to see if these focal lengths work for your project. If you're using a gimbal then the Sigma 30mm F/1.4 DC DN might be interesting at €350, or the Sigma 16mm F/1.4 if you want to go wide.
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