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Pieter

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Pieter last won the day on June 30

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About Pieter

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  1. Your camera settings seem ok so no issue there. Be sure to disable stabilization when shooting from a tripod as your camera will try to compensate for shake that isn't there. This might result in a slight blur. It's quite difficult to assess your photos (am on phone atm). On the second photo it seems to be a depth of field / focus plane issue: the buildings in the back seem sharper than the trees/foliage. Same with the last image: focus seems to be more on the lightpost than on the buildings. Based on the perspective of the last image it seems to be a crop near the corner of the frame. In my opinion it is pretty sharp: corners always lack behind a bit in sharpness but I can still differentiate individual pixels along contrasty edges. When shooting a cityscape at such a distance, atmospheric haze or fog/smog will also deteriorate image sharpness.
  2. I'm not exactly sure but it seems your help reference is outdated: initially it worked like that on the A7(R)III but with a certain firmware update these cameras got a feature called 'real-time Eye-AF', removing the need to press a button to engage Eye-AF.
  3. No, it's the other way around: higher resolution will result in more blurry pixels if the initial image wasn't sharp to begin with. Without more details about camera settings like shutter speed and aperture and other conditions like tripod use and subject movement it's totally impossible to guess what might cause unsharp pictures in your case.
  4. Thanks for the explanation, keep us posted on your findings.
  5. I know how to use manual (non-communicating) lenses, I have one which I enjoy using on occasion. I was just referring to this phrase: Since you say these lenses have no aperture ring, I assume you should adjust the aperture by turning the aperture dial in-camera. For that to work, you need your camera to communicate with the lens. These adapters have no electronic contacts and therefore do not facilitate camera-lens communication. Hence my question:
  6. How do you expect that would work without any communication between camera and lens? For that you need electronic contacts on the adapter.
  7. Valid argument if that's what you value. Bear in mind though that the DN (= Designed Native) Sigma lenses perform extremely well on Sony bodies, likely much better than they did on your old Canon. Be sure to check Dustin Abbotts thorough review: he compares it head-to-head to the GM on several aspects. Since you mention cost as an aspect in your trade-off it would be a waste to discard the Sigma purely based on a gut feeling. https://dustinabbott.net/2020/06/sigma-100-400mm-f5-6-3-dn-os-review/
  8. Have you considered the Sigma 100-400 which is about to be released? It's less than half the price of the GM and based on the reviews it's optically quite similar. Afaik it hasn't been verified yet if it's compatible with Sonys 1.4× extender though.
  9. Quoting Ken Rockwell and his subjective testing methods as an authority on lens sharpness isn't quite convincing... To quote Ken Rockwell: "every lens made in the past 100 years is more than sharp enough to make super-sharp pictures if you know what you're doing. The only limitation to picture sharpness is your skill as a photographer." Ken actually states about this lens: "This Sony Zeiss FE 35mm f/1.4 is sharp, but as used on the full frame Sony A7R II I'm not all that excited about its edge sharpness." More reputable testing sites like OpticalLimits considers the optical quality of this lens pretty compromised, and quite overpriced for what it offers. https://www.opticallimits.com/sonyalphaff/1026-zeiss35f14za?start=2
  10. What exactly do you mean by 'to increase the zoom'? Extension tubes are never used to increase the zoom, unless you use them to stack teleconverters. Then again, teleconverters don't fit on the 24-70 GM. If by 'to increase the zoom' you actually mean 'to increase the maximum magnification ratio' then yes, they can be.
  11. ND: Depending on the blocking factor of the filter, an ND-filter blocks 50% up to virtually all light. This works similar to closing the aperture when determining the light intensity of the sun projected onto your sensor. CPL: A polarization filter blocks about 50% of the light from the sun, so your sensor will still be at (a slightly reduced) risk. UV: No effect: there already is a UV-filter on your sensor. Stacking these hardly affects light intensity on the sensor.
  12. Yes, shooting directly into the sun, especially with a wide aperture, may cause your sensor to be damaged. Actually, you don't even need to be shooting to damage the sensor. This is one of the reasons that the aperture of the lens closes when you turn off the camera: to protect the sensor from direct sunlight when you forget to put the lens cap on. Also, if you're reviewing your photos on camera, the aperture will stay open for some 20 seconds before closing down. During this period take care not to point you camera into the sun as it might cause damage without you even being aware that you're exposing your sensor to intense concentrated light.
  13. I enjoyed that math lesson @Chrissie! Learned something in the process as well. Always like the way you objectify your advise with physics/math to make a clear point. To me that point was very clear but apparently not to the OP.
  14. Please point us to a shop where one can buy Tamron 150-600 E-mount @Phil51
  15. This is indeed the point I was trying to make. From what I gather (and looking at your photos) it seems like your current setup isn't holding you back but you're more interested in exploring new possibilities. If a new camera increases your interest in photography, your boosted enthusiasm will likely help produce more and nicer images. Looking at your photos though I'm pretty sure any (un)trained eye will have a very hard time telling if these were made with an APS-C camera or fullframe. Only in a side-by-side comparison of the same photo will experienced photographers be able to spot the slight difference.
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