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Pieter

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Pieter last won the day on June 20

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About Pieter

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  1. Have a read at that link I posted, some good ones there. Filters always affect image quality, but good quality filters have such incredibly small influence that - in my opinion - the influence is negligible. Some people however just don't accept anything that might affect image quality. Filters are not for them.
  2. It's not possible: that green square is an autofocus-confirmation box. If autofocus is disabled, the camera is not searching for eyes/faces so there won't be any green boxes. Focus magnification on the eyes might help in your case, though you need a model standing fairly still for this to work.
  3. You can, with a Metabones or Sigma MC-11 adapter. Results may vary in terms of autofocus, so check the web a bit on which adapter works best for your lenses. The adapters aren't cheap however and some of your old lenses are designed for APS-C format, so maybe you'd be better off just selling those and buying E-mount glass. Since you're not new to photography I assume you know the pros and cons of primes and zooms, and you know which focal lengths you like. I don't know your budget, but Samyang offers some cheap but great value for money primes, like the 45mm f/1.8 and 35mm f/1.8.
  4. For camera-based image stabilization (IBIS) to work, the camera needs to know the focal length of the lens in use*. The LA-EA2 transfers EXIF so the camera should be able to stabilize the image. If the lens also has stabilized optics, it might conflict with IBIS so you'll have to turn one off. *Even lenses without EXIF-transmission can use IBIS if you manually set the focal length of the lens.
  5. You're making quite a lot of errors there in your reasoning, which leads you to false conclusions. Let's set things straight: You should really differentiate between two critical things here: sensor area and megapixel count. FF sensor area is 35.9 mm × 24.0 mm = 862 mm² APS-C sensor area is 23.6 mm × 15.7 mm = 371 mm² M4/3 sensor area is 17.3 mm × 13.0 mm = 225 mm² From this you can see APS-C is 43.0% of FF sensor area, M4/3 is 26.1% of FF sensor area. An A7R3 has 42.18 effective MP. If you put it in APS-C mode, that should yield 42.18 × 43.0% = 18.1 MP. Not
  6. The 'barrel distortion' you refer to is in fact not barrel distortion but perspective distortion due to the wide angle lens you're using. There's no fix for that except using the longest focal length possible within the spatial constraints of your room. If I were you I'd get a fast (because of indoor shooting) zoom lens (for versatility), like the Tamron 28-75 F/2.8. That way you can find the optimal focal length for your use case without sacrificing too much in low-light performance.
  7. How can anyone but you decide which lenses to keep? We don't know your budget, use cases, storage space, bag size, tolerance to carrying heavy stuff around, tolerance of spouse to your excessive spendings, etcetera etcetera. If you really like that 16mm, you can sell everything else for all I care. Or keep it for you might one day find out you actually like 30mm and/or 56mm as well. Sell the 18-105, the Sigma primes are so much better! No wait, keep it: you might occasionally want to get some smooth zoom-action in your footage. It balances nicely on gimbals with that internal zoom as well
  8. How do you transfer the image from camera to phone? I believe that if you use the Sony software, the image is downscaled quite a lot during transfer. That might be the cause of your pixelated image.
  9. How is it any different from cropping in the RAW file? You're loosing resolution either way.
  10. As far as I know it's not possible. But it is totally possible to crop the JPEG in your phone. No RAW-editing or external soft-/hardware required whatsoever.
  11. yes, distortion is about zero at 20mm and pincushion at 24. https://www.cameralabs.com/tamron-17-28mm-f2-8-di-iii-review/3/
  12. Why exactly would you want an A7S over a regular A7? If you really want to go fullframe, rely on autofocus a lot and don't primarily do video, I'd only consider an A7III. Any of the older bodies are a downgrade (or sidegrade at best) compared to your A6000 when it comes to autofocus. This might be beyond your budget so you should really ask yourself: 'do I want to go fullframe?' But I guess the more important question is: 'in what sense do I feel my A6000 is holding me back the most?'. Only then is it possible to answer the question if migrating to fullframe is a sensible investment in your ca
  13. Given the fact that your lenses are stabilized, I guess a camera with sensor-based stabilisation isn't worth the extra investment in your case. This leaves the A6100 and A6400 as replacement options for your A6000. Both offer significantly better autofocus than the A6000 but only marginally better image quality. Get the A6400 if you value good build quality (some weather resistance, magnesium alloy body and better EVF). If you're fine with the build quality of the A6000, get the A6100 and save some money. The metal mount baffles already are a big improvement in the A6100 over the plastic
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