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Pieter

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Pieter last won the day on January 15

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About Pieter

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  1. Pieter

    SEL55210 Lens Cap replacement

    Haha you're welcome 😉 Take care!
  2. Pieter

    SEL55210 Lens Cap replacement

    Dude, you don't have the 55-210 lens, you have the 18-200 LE... That one has a totally different filter thread of Ø62mm instead of Ø49, it even says so on the front of the lens. Small wonder it doesn't fit... Search for the ALC-F62S instead. Any off-brand cap with a 62mm thread should also fit but for the resale value of the lens it helps to have an original cap. In all honesty, how can you not know which lens you have...?
  3. Pieter

    SEL55210 Lens Cap replacement

    My 55-210, 50mm f/1.8 and 24mm f/1.8 all have a 49mm thread and seem to have identical lens caps. I just tried and at least these are interchangeable. Search for ALC-F49S. In my country (Netherlands) they are readily available at the bigger camera shops for about €8.
  4. Pieter

    Prime lenses

    Since your a6500 has sensor-based image stabilization the lack of OSS in the lens is not really a miss. I do agree that the 24mm f/1.8 is expensive for what it is though. If the 35mm f/1.8 fits your desired focal length, also consider the Sigma 30mm f/1.4. About the same price, optically better than the Sony 35 but no OSS.
  5. Pieter

    Prime lenses

    Don't think of the crop factor if all you ever used is an APS-C camera: the fullframe equivalence has no significant meaning to you. My advise is to try your 18-135 a bit on various focal lengths (e.g. 23-ish, 35 and 50) and see how that works for your videos. Then buy a prime at whichever focal length you like best. If you really want 35mm FF equivalent focal length, the Sony Zeiss 24mm f/1.8 is a real gem. Also costs close to €/$ 1k. On the other end of the price spectrum there's the cheap but decent Sigma 19mm f/2.8 DC DN.
  6. Pieter

    Adaptors and off-brand lenses on a6500

    Don't get me wrong: I too would like something better than the 55-210 I use on my a6500 without sacrificing too much on portability of the system (that's what made me fall in love with Sony APS-C in the first place, over Fuji or Sony FF). I just think it's not going to happen. Maybe Tamron or Sigma will make a 300 or 400 mm lens for APS-C someday but it will be a crappy ultrazoom. If the 1.7x teleconverter works for you, that's your best option to go long and lightweight in the foreseeable future.
  7. Pieter

    Adaptors and off-brand lenses on a6500

    Then please show me the off-brand lens that fits your needs if camera system wasn't a constraint. Oh right, there isn't any as sensor size doesn't affect the bulk of a decent 400mm+ lens much. The Panasonic 100-400 for micro 4/3rds also weighs 1kg. Thats about the same as the Sigma 100-400 for Fullframe.
  8. Pieter

    Adaptors and off-brand lenses on a6500

    If you find the FE 70-300 too heavy at 854 grams, nothing will satisfy your requirements. Anything with 400mm reach will be heavier or have really crappy image quality such as the Tamron 18-400. Sounds like what you actually want is an RX10-iv: fairly compact, awesome autofocus, 600mm equivalent focal length and 1kg total body+lens.
  9. Google for '49mm achromat close-up filter'. I know at least Kenko and Marumi produce them. +5 Dioptre will give you more than 1:1 magnification if you put your lens to 210 mm. Don't go for the cheap sets of stacked non-achromatic macro filters as image quality will become very poor. The combination becomes a bit front-heavy and you'll probably use a small aperture to increase depth of field, so avoiding camera shake will take some practice. Best to put your camera on a beanbag or other stable base to get the best results. Do take note that with the close-up filter on the lens, your focus range is limited to e.g. 15 to 30 cm in front of the lens. For non-macro you'll need to remove it again.
  10. I guess I would advise against the 30 mm macro and 16 mm pancake: The 30 mm is a fairly mediocre lens. You can get a much better macro lens for the same price or less (though it'll be a manual one, which is arguably better for macro work) or you can go for a really cheap and fairly ok option, which is to put a +5 dioptre achromat front lens on your 55-210 or put some macro extension tubes on your old minolta lens. The 30 mm macro is not a very good portrait lens if you like some background isolation as it has a slow aperture. The 16 mm pancake is also a mediocre lens and the gain on image quality and speed versus your 16-50 kit lens is marginal. The 50mm 1.8 on the other hand is a great portrait lens. Very sharp and the lens stabilisation will help on your a6000. If you like the field of view of your old 50mm Minolta, you can't go wrong with this one.
  11. Pieter

    Adapter question (new here)

    Doesn't exist. An a6500 would have stabilized those lenses as it has sensor-based stabilization. A gimbal will stabilize your video-footage but this may be costly for you. Your cheapest bet is to only shoot from a tripod or learn how to stabilize your camera, e.g. by bracing your arms. Putting the EVF to your eye-socket will also help to minimize camera shake. Or buy a cheap stabilized lens such as the 16-50 kit lens.
  12. Pieter

    Adaptors and off-brand lenses on a6500

    This doesn't exist. Closest you can get is the native 100-400 GM at 1.4 kg or the Sigma 100-400 with MC11 adapter at 1.3 kg. Be sure to try the autofocus performance of any adapted options to see if it's up to your standards.
  13. Did you try putting 'Live view display' to 'Setting effects off'? I'm trying to reproduce your issue on my a6500 and indeed the aperture changes when you're just about to make an exposure, even with everything set to manual and even with 'live view -> setting effects off' on my a6500. Maybe on your A7Riii you're lucky on that matter. The answer you probably don't want to hear is that you can always put a full manual lens on your camera to solve this issue.
  14. Autofocus performance will suffer significantly when using the adapted option. If you need responsive AF, don't consider A to E-mount adapted options on your A7II. Besides, the optical performance of the FE-lens is a world of difference vs the A-mount option: https://www.dxomark.com/Lenses/Compare/Side-by-side/Sony-FE-70-200mm-F28-GM-OSS-on-Sony-A7R-II-versus-Sony-70-200mm-F2-8-G-on-Sony-SLT-Alpha-99-II__1679_1035_246_1120
  15. Increasing the shutter speed would increase ISO-noise, not decrease it. Anyway, stop trying to help this guy, it's a fake question just so this scammer can put some links to his spyware or whatnot. See the links he inserted into the post where he quoted my reply.
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