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Pieter

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Pieter last won the day on June 21

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About Pieter

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  1. It helps a lot if you set the camera profile in Lightroom to 'camera standard'. It's an emulation by Adobe of the in-camera jpeg-processor. Colors are still slightly different though from what the camera produces. Also, things like DRO are done during in-camera jpeg processing. It's a content-aware algorithm so difficult to get a standard lightroom preset for it, but raising the blacks and reducting the whites just a little bit in LR should get you comparable results.
  2. Thanks for the recap. I'm on the fence between these two options as well but I'm not in a hurry so I guess I'll wait for Sigma or Tamron to come with a native 100-400. The Sony 100-400 is out of my price range, me being mostly a family/landscape photographer who only does the occasional wildlife shot when the opportunity presents itself. That's my main concern: since I only use such a lens on occasion, the bigger it is, the smaller the chance I bring it.
  3. I get your sarcastic rhetorical question as we both know there's no great option @Lescatalpas. Sony really should have made the 50mm f/1.8 to the same standards as the 35 and 85 f/1.8 imo. Afaik we're just discussing pros and cons of the available options here. I guess I should mention here I'm an APS-C shooter. Then what's my interest in the 55mm FE? At the time I was looking for a replacement for my 50mm f/1.8 E. It was a great lens save for the horrible LoCA, so the 55 f/1.8 FE got on my radar. Both share pretty much the same optical formula except that the 50mm has OSS and no aspherics. Consequently, the bokeh of the 50mm was buttery smooth and much nicer than the 55mm. Due to the similar optical formula, both fared equally poor on the LoCA department. All in all the 55mm didn't seem like an upgrade. I guess you get where my two objections against this lens originate 😉 I found my solution in the Sigma 56mm f/1.4, which ticks all my requests. Great little lens save for the terrible distortion. I don't care much for distortion though: as long as the lens is plenty sharp there's headroom to correct distortions in post processing at minimal cost of IQ. But alas, none of this is relevant to you fullframe shooters. Let's hope Sigma starts working on a compact Contemporary line of f/1.8 FE-lenses.
  4. I'm happy for the people who own it and are happy with it. I'm sure it's a great option for many. The point I'm trying to make here is that there's more to a lens than just sharpness. If you scroll up this thread, people keep on bringing up just sharpness of this lens as an argument to get it. For me there's very strong arguments to not get it. In the light of this discussion I'm highlighting those so people can make an informed decision. I've had many good shots ruined by ugly green/magenta color cast/haloing due to LoCA. In fact more than were ruined by a lens not being sharp enough.
  5. Let's bring out another sample from Philip Reeves test. No the water isn't dyed, the LoCA-performance of the lens is just that bad. https://phillipreeve.net/blog/sony-fe-1-855-za-sonnar-t-review/#Chromatic_Aberrations
  6. This doesn't look appealing to me...
  7. DXOmark doesn't test for longitudinal CA, nor does it assess the characteristics of out of focus areas... Opticallimits and Lenstip tested this lens independently and come largely to the same conclusions. And they provided plenty image samples which support their findings. I'm not questioning DXO's sharpness test as I'm sure they know what they're doing, all I see is it is contradicting with Lenstip and Opticallimits (which may both have had bad luck with their sample as they both only tested 1). Honestly, as much as I appreciate DXO's attempt at an objective approach to a lens review, how are their measurements relevant as a full review if not assessing actual photo's and subjective qualities of a lens? And to quote myself: High LoCA and onion-ring bokeh to me disqualifies this lens as a potential purchase.
  8. I don't get the hype around the 55 f/1.8... Yes it's small and has decent sharpness in the center. The list of cons is significant though, especially when used wide open (where fast primes are ment to be used imo): - Mediocre edge sharpness - Hefty vignetting - Nervous bokeh-balls (onion rings) - Significant LoCA. I don't care much for extreme sharpness or a bit of vignetting, but the quality of OOF-areas are of critical importance to me when it comes to fast primes. High LoCA and onion-ring bokeh to me disqualifies this lens as a potential purchase. For reference: https://www.opticallimits.com/sonyalphaff/965-zeiss55f18?start=1 https://www.lenstip.com/483.11-Lens_review-Sony_Carl_Zeiss_Sonnar_T*_FE_55_mm_f_1.8_ZA_Summary.html
  9. Your Sigma 18-300 is an APS-C lens so you'd be using it in crop mode on the A7iii, giving it a 450 mm equivalent field of view at high IQ cost. Sounds like the Sony 70-300 might be interesting to you. Effectively slightly less reach than your Sigma but much better IQ. The 70-200 f/4 might also be interesting (marginally better IQ than the 70-300) but it's white so a lot less inconspicuous than the black 70-300. Both are designed for a fullframe image circle. The Sony 100-400 will probably be out of your budget and it's substantially bigger than the other two.
  10. Do you hear multiple shutter sounds or do you actually get multiple photo's? Bracketing maybe enabled?
  11. Is your switch rotated to the AEL-postition? Sounds like it's in the AF/MF position and you're toggling AF/MF rather than focussing.
  12. Do make sure that your camera is in focus mode: manual. Most lenses don't have direct manual focus override. If that is the case, definately sounds like a broken lens then... Good you have warranty! Haven't heard of many of these breaking. It's better and more durable than the 16-50 kit lens at least.
  13. Also happens with the camera in Auto (green) mode (check PASM dial)? Bought the 18-55 new or second hand? Sounds like a lens issue to me unless you accidentally put the camera in A or M mode and dialled in a really small aperture (high aperture value), but from your post it seems like you know what you're doing regarding the aperture. Does manual focus still work, and can you adjust the aperture manually? That way you can at least verify that both mechanisms are still in good order.
  14. The shutter is closed while taking the dark frame, so no need to put the cap on.
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