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Pieter

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Pieter last won the day on March 14

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  1. From my own experience, it's decently fast but considerably slower than native Sony lenses like the 50mm f/1.8 OSS. Focus is very accurate. That being said, I've never had much succes in photographing my kids running towards me with any lens on the a6000: focus is always behind the subject, especially with large aperture lenses as the thin depth of field leaves less room for error. Since I tested several lenses, I think it's more due to the lacking autofocus of the a6000 than the lens AF performance. For me it was reason to replace my a6000 with a newer model.
  2. The 18-200 you have should have a zoom lock switch which locks it in the 18mm position, preventing any zoom creep. Can't be used at any other focal length afaik. Do you need a lens that goes up to 200 mm? The 18-105 f/4 is internal zooming so doesn't extend and for sure doesn't suffer from zoom creep. Then again, if you already have the 18-135 I guess you do... I have no experience with the 18-200 power zoom but Internet tells me that if you engage the servo zoom, it should keep the lens in place: https://www.sony-asia.com/electronics/support/articles/00008353
  3. I don't think OP cares anymore as he posted his message as 'urgent' half a year ago and never commented on any of the suggestions.
  4. Haven't faced this issue but I guess it's due to wear on the shutter button. A renowned camera store should be able to fix it but might be cheaper to just buy another used a6000. A partial fix might be to put the camera in AF-C instead of AF-S: at least it will refocus when you move the camera or subject. Use zone focussing to determine where you want to focus if it doesn't lock onto your desired subject.
  5. @Mikey Leigh I think this link might be of interest to you, look at chapter 2.2: https://sonyalpha.blog/2019/10/27/sony-e-70-350mm-f4-5-6-3-g-oss/ It covers fullframe at nearly all focal lengths except at 300+ mm. No need to use auto-APS-C mode at all: if you're planning to crop in post-processing you'll be able to keep much more megapixels than just the APS-C area. @Roy As OP mentioned, he's planning to use it on an A7R3, so will 'only' have 18 MP in auto-crop mode.
  6. It was the very question the original poster was interested in: does the 70-350 cover more than the APS-C sensor size? Your post doesn't answer that question. Some APS-C lenses do, like the 10-18 f/4: If you put it at around 14 mm it has an image circle which covers a fullframe sensor, so there's no need to use auto-crop and loose a lot of megapixels. If you want to really help the OP (and others with the same question), grab your A7R4, disable auto APS-C, shoot some photos at 70, 200 and 350 mm and post them here so we can all evaluate them to see how much of a usable fullframe image one can get out of this lens.
  7. Are you sure your A7R4 didn't automatically switch to crop mode when putting on the 70-350? That would explain why it doesn't vignette.
  8. Your friend is right. If you wanna crop, better do it in post processing so you have more freedom in framing your composition. For videography the megapixel loss is less important as your output video has less than 24 megapixels anyway.
  9. A7III. Google Translate helped me understand your question but if you want to increase the chance of a proper answer, better ask in English next time as this is an international forum.
  10. The 55-210 is roughly the same size as the 18-105. It's narrower but extends when zooming (the 18-105 does not). Have a look here: https://camerasize.com/compact/#691.360,691.702,691.446,691.90,ha,t In all honesty, the 16-50 gets a lot of criticism but during the time I used it I actually got really decent results. I replaced it with the 18-105 which is quite bulky. However, since I got the 18-105 I rarely use my 55-210 anymore as the zoom range is quite versatile. The 18-135 even more so. In your case however I'd keep the 16-50 and 55-210 for now: the 16-50 is a joy to use when travelling light and the 55-210 can come in handy on occasion. Learn to use those lenses and your camera and in time you might feel the lenses you have are lacking in one way or the other. Only then will you know where exactly they are lacking and what to look for. But if your primary concern is size, weight and convenience, the 16-50 might actually never need replacement.
  11. The 16-50 is very easy to travel with as it fits a large jacket pocket, so in that sense it's bested by no other lens. If you really want something as small as possible, you made the right deal (tho maybe an RX100 would have made sense as well in your case). The 18-135 is fairly small for what it is but a lot larger than the 16-50. The 18-105 is even larger, mostly due to a big front element.
  12. Have to agree with Wally. I started photography with an a6000 and the kit lenses (16-50 and 55-210) some 5 years ago, on a trip to South America as well (Patagonia in my case). I'm not much of a wildlife photographer (Google will generally get you much better pictures of the animal you just spotted) but for whatever wildlife I encountered there, the 55-210 served my needs. Anything up to about 20-30 m away will be close enough, unless you want full headshots. I've since bought a lot of lenses and sold the 16-50, but still have the 55-210. It's just too small and light to be replaced by something big and expensive for the very occasional wildlife I shoot. If you experiment a bit more with photography and find the 55-210 to be lacking for your needs, you can always upgrade and sell the 55-210 at hardly any loss. If you were going on an African safari I might have advised you to get the 70-350 instead as you really need the reach there, but in South America you'll likely have the 16-70 mounted 90% of the time and the 55-210 will be good enough when the occasion is there.
  13. The Sigma 16mm f/1.4 DC/DN comes to mind if you don't mind shooting in super35-mode and you only intend to use it for video. Can be had new for about €400. Roughly equivalent to a 24mm f/2 on Fullframe.
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