Olaf W.

Try another memory card, the current one might be defective

Welcome to our forum!

And the JPG-Processing on my iPad does this too, obviously. I second this. I wouldn't expect such curved lines with a broken SD card.

@jaithen I‘ve downloaded the two pictures on my iPad and don‘t see any pink lines.

Maybe it‘s better to open a new thread. You should specify the lenses you like to use.

@Corlius Welcome to our forum, but did you notice that this thread is quite old? Hope you get an answer anyway

That‘s weird. To rule out the card you should try another one. How do you process the raw files on the Mac? And, if you shoot raw only do the pictures look right on the camera?

Welcome!

Welcome to our forum!

Yes, a while ago we had some spam problems which led to the restrictions regarding new members. As far as I now the limitations should change if you are active a while. If they don‘t, please let me know.

Welcome to our forum. You should give some more words here. At first I supposed your post as spam, but then I took a look at your footage 😉

Yes, but it can‘t do magic. Intelligent auto will work fine at normal (day) light conditions. But if it gets dark there are three parameters the camera can adjust - (open) aperture, (decrease) shutter speed and (raise) ISO (sensor signal gain). With your lens the maximum aperture is 3.5 (5.6 when zoomed, respectively). Since your lens is quite „slow“ (can‘t open the aperture very much) there are shutter speed and ISO left for adjusting. The max. ISO is 25600 I guess, but the photos will look terrible with this setting, because you get a lot of sensor noise and/or a lot of destructive noise reduction. So the ISO should be kept under 6400 (better 3200), but I guess the auto modes will go higher just to get a picture. But if it‘s too dark, even the highest ISO won‘t help to get a photo so the camera slows the shutter speed. This is not a big problem with static objects due to lens stabilization. But it is a problem with moving objects if the shutter speed falls below ca. 1/100s (the faster an object is moving the higher shutter speed you need). The auto modes can do a lot to get a useful photo under many conditions, but they can’t do magic, as I stated in the beginning. With a „fast“ lens (F2.0 or faster - faster means lower F numbers like 1.8, or 1.4) the camera has more light for operating (F2.0 instead of 3.5 is about 4 times the amount of light reaching the sensor). In a lot of cases, when one has not much experience or can’t afford faster lenses it can be useful just to use a flash.

With your shutter speed settings one must expect movement and shaking blur. Keep the shutter speed for moving targets shorter than 1/80s, better shorter than 1/100s.

I'm not sure in which way the APS-C Sensor limits old lenses if you put the crop factor aside. So do I.

Welcome to our forum. This it no really a Sony Alpha, is it? Anyway, I've made an exception and hope you'll get help.