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XKAES

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XKAES last won the day on November 24

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  1. Looks like you've done everything correctly. I doubt that the internal battery would cause the symptoms you report. As to replacing it yourself, I'd say forget about it -- unless you have disassembled these types of cameras before. I don't know about your camera, but on mine you have to completely remove the back -- with lots of tiny screws and cables -- and then remove the motherboard -- with even more tiny screws and cables -- because the internal battery is soldered onto the FRONT side of the motherboard. You would only want to go to all that trouble if you knew for certain that it was the internal battery at fault. Perhaps others will offer some more diagnostic tests. When you remove the USB cord and battery, and then re-attach the cord and insert the battery, does it always ask for the DATE when you turn it ON?
  2. First, are sure sure all the batteries are fully charged before you try them. Second, please clarify. Are you saying that the only way to turn the camera on is to have the USB cord attached and the fully charged battery installed? If YES, can you then remove the USB cord and still have it function correctly? If you can turn the camera ON and OFF -- in whatever configuration -- and it is asking for the date -- then the internal "MEMORY" battery is a prime suspect -- and is not something you can remove. The only chance to restore the internal "MEMORY" battery, is to follow the instructions above -- or in your camera manual.
  3. I doubt a lens shade is the problem since it shows up in the same place with different lenses.
  4. I'll continue to pick my brain, but I have no idea. Perhaps others will have some other TEST ideas. I think you have ruled out a typical light leak from the camera mount, but the fact that it always shows up in the same place on the image suggests something with the camera is the problem. Does the streak show up in the same place in the photo when you take a vertical shot???
  5. What was the shutter speed with just the body cap on? Did you try a long exposure in bright light -- say 30 seconds?
  6. I don't know how a shutter problem could cause a CURVED streak, but who knows?
  7. Does the streak show up in the viewfinder or LCD panel? Try pointing at a black object to fill the frame with BRIGHT light all around the lens. Do you see the streak?
  8. Given your situation, painting the windows on the inside with a little black paint makes sense to me -- assuming you want to keep the lens. I'd try it out first before painting.
  9. You are correct. You can block the light on the outside of the lens -- or the inside. All you need is a tiny bit of removable opaque tape over the window on the outside OR the inside. The outside makes more sense so that you can see the f-stop before you cover it up. Painting either means that you won't be able to use it in the darkroom!
  10. You are correct. He could buy a Minolta or Sony 600mm lens and largely solve the problem. My guess is that he'd rather put his kids through college.
  11. Enlarging lenses are very different in design. I have several Componons, and most don't have windows/pipes/etc. Same with Minolta and Fuji enlarging lenses -- most don't have windows, but some do. They are easy enough to cover up after you have composed and focused wide open -- and then stopped down.
  12. Sounds like it's time to pull out your copy of "Let it Bleed" by the Stones -- and turn up the volume!
  13. The zoom rings -- and the focusing rings in manual-focusing mode -- on some lenses are pretty easy to unintentionally move, for sure. They aren't really "loose", but they don't have much "friction" or "inertia". And the "problem" with the Sigma lenses having rings going in the opposite direction to the Sony lenses goes WAY back -- even to the Minolta Rokkor days. But it's not just Sigma. On all of Minolta lenses, the focusing rings and the aperture rings turn in the same direction. But I have several, very nice, third-party lenses where the focusing rings and/or the f-stop ring turn OPPOSITE to Rokkor lenses. It's not a huge deal, but keeps surprising me when I use those lenses. These lenses were made for various SLR cameras, and they decided to produce only one standard -- which turned out not to be Minolta. But the lenses are still worth it. My Sigma APO 300mm f4.5 is a good example.
  14. The illumination windows let a small amount of light from inside the enlarger OUT so that you can see the f-stop in the dark. But when used on a bellows, that same window lets outside light IN -- not something you want. If you are using flash to expose your subject it probably won't make any difference, but with natural light and longer exposures, it can create flare, loss of contrast, over-exposure, etc. Just put a small piece of removable opaque tape over the window -- there might be a windows on both sides of the lens. Minolta made a Leica adapter for the C.E. lenses that has a built-in window cover to solve the problem. They realized it's a possible problem. See: http://www.subclub.org/minman/access.htm Perhaps other enlarger lens manufacturers did as well, but they are probably as impossible to find as the Minolta version. Besides, tape is cheaper!
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