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XKAES last won the day on May 6

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  1. This varies from camera to camera. On the a850 and a900, for example, the bars/lines appear below 200 and above 3200.
  2. Have you run a CUSTOM WHITE BALANCE for your flash?
  3. This is one of the reasons I suggested a larger format bellows camera approach. Since the T/S lenses lose so many "auto" features anyway, why not just use a regular lens on a bellows -- which provides all the T/S you need?
  4. As you know there are a lot of 4x5 cameras much smaller, lighter, and cheaper than the P, and since you can use your existing 4x5 lenses, you're all set -- as you sit and wait for Sony to listen to your plea.
  5. I don't know how much T/S you might need, but you can get a T/S bellows for a lot less than $3,800 -- probably around $200. And in any case, you will lose auto-focusing -- but that's a good thing in close-up work. I'm no expert in the current Canon T/S lenses, but older T/S lenses had fewer features. For example, Minolta's 35mm shift lens, did not have meter coupling. I still think an inexpensive larger format bellows camera -- you can get these starting at $200 -- might fit your needs. The smaller ones (6x9) are harder to find, and cost as much, but if you want to use lenses in the realm of 85mm and UP, these could be adapted for very little expense. There are lots of EBAY sellers that carry large format backs for various cameras, and front lens board for various lenses. Check out: https://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/forum.php For discussions on this very approach. Also, here as some adapters -- one for Sony e-mount https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/buy/Digital-Film-Back-Adapters/ci/152/N/3656173696
  6. Here's an example of a current, related discussion: https://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?169090-Benefits-of-working-with-m4-3-on-a-Viewcamera
  7. If you want a long lens for T&S, good luck. Even in the decades of 35mm film, they were mainly 28mm & 35mm -- which incidentally work fine on digital cameras. If you want T&S with a long lens for close-up work, you should consider a bellows setup -- one that has T&S, such as the Minolta Auto-Bellows III. That way, you can use regular long lenses and get T&S through the bellows. I can't imagine any company coming up with that gear by itself today. Another option is buying and adapting a larger format bellows camera -- you would not be the first to do it.
  8. I don't know the details, but there are a-mount to e-mount adapters, but they all have certain limitations, such as focusing speed, and ability to work with certain lenses having certain features.
  9. A lot depends on if you want to stick with the a-mount or e-mount. There are a ton of a-mount lenses out there -- new and old, but Sony is leaving the a-mount to history. There will not be many (any?) a-mount camera in the future. The same is true for lenses. Me? I'm sticking/stuck with a-mount and not complaining.
  10. All I can say is that plenty of people had had similar problems -- not necessarily with that same camera or that same lens. Apparently just a minor disconnection in either the camera or the lens can do it. All I can suggest is make sure all the contact between camera and lens are clean -- but you've probably already done that. You may want to read past messages on this FORUM. Some people went the repair shop route, some with backup gear, some just moved on to other brands. Fortunately it's not a common problem -- just a BAD one.
  11. Hardly, but it's the first place to start -- especially since most people either don't have one or haven't bother to read it.
  12. I know very little about your camera, and nothing about your flash, but I know that certain cameras will only work in certain ways with certain flashes. Most Sony cameras will work in most ways correctly with most Sony flashes -- but there are plenty of exceptions. Throw in a Nikon flash, and who knows? I assume you have a manual for the camera, and not the flash. The camera manual will give you general information about Sony flashes, but usually tell you to read the flash manual which usually tells you how it operates with current or older Sony cameras. (It will also say that it can't guarantee anything with non-Sony flashes.) If you don't have the Sony flash manual, you can probably find it on line. Then, I would run some simple tests for the camera and flash in BASIC flash modes. See if these work OK. If they do start adding other modes. Keep good notes and determine what modes work and what don't. Just basic, time-consuming detective work. It might be something simple, but it might be some incompatibility that you can't fix -- but might be able to work around.
  13. Yeah, but he wants "compatibility for the future". That means an e-mount, FF camera.
  14. I don't know about pricing, but you'll want a full-frame, e-mount camera with fast focusing for sports. Reviews will tell you about this. I suspect that the ones best for sports are pretty expensive, but older, slower models are available for much less.
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