Pieter got a reaction from PNW photog in A7Rii problems with LCD flip out screen goes black if I hold the camera too close to my chest, but not if I hold it 20" away.
This is caused by the proximity sensor of the viewfinder (EVF). To disable auto-toggle between monitor and EVF, go to:
"MENU > Gear > Finder/Monitor" and set it to "Monitor (Manual)".
This completely disables the EVF. To still have the possibility to use it, you can use a custom button to switch manually by mapping "Finder/Monitor Sel." to it.
Pieter got a reaction from Nextguitar in SONY a6400 getting overexposed at lowest iso in daylight ! ! Help
That's a stupid software thing and becomes especially apparent under those conditions: the in-camera vignetting correction does not seem to be gradual but compensates in discrete steps away from the center. When boosting the in-camera corrected image (either in post or by extremely high ISO in-camera), these concentric rings become very clear. I believe the in-camera shading compensation is baked into the RAW-file if you do photography, which renders an otherwise nice photo useless.
I always disable in-camera shading compensation (= vignetting correction) for this very reason. And because I often like a bit of vignette in my shots. If I don't want vignetting for some reason, I stop down the lens or correct in post.
Pieter got a reaction from Nextguitar in To use a filter or not to use a filter on a lens?
I'm using filters on my lenses for the following reasons:
- If you buy good quality filters, the impact on the optical quality of the lens in my opinion is negligible (like 0.3% light loss and almost zero additional ghosting/flare).
- I clean my lenses quite often. Even when first blowing/brushing off dust before a wet wipe, you'll inadvertedly cause abrasion on the front element. In time, the degradation of the coating on this element will have adverse effects on image quality as well. Replacing a front filter is cheap, replacing a front lens element not so much.
- Don't expect the filter glass to protect your front element from a direct impact with a solid object, but having some metal ring protruding beyond the front element certainly helps in keeping it from harm. A lot of impact energy can be dissipated by the deformation of the filter ring before wrecking the front of your lens. Always keeping the lens hood on also helps here.
- Resale value: a minor scratch on the front element (e.g. by accidentally rubbing a grain of sand over the lens while cleaning it) won't affect image quality much, but it severely affects resale value.
Have a read here, you might find it interesting:
Pieter got a reaction from Kumar Nishit in How often should you get the camera sensor cleaned
That is a convenience none of us DSLT/mirrorless-users can ever enjoy.
Pieter reacted to XKAES in Filter vs No Filter
It's only "controversial" to people who want it to be controversial. To people like yourself, and myself -- who have test results -- it's not. That's like saying the COVID vaccine is controversial. It only is to the people who choose to put their lives at risk!
I have UV filters on all of my lenses -- not just to reduce UV light (which is a bigger deal for film than digital sensors) but to protect my lens glass.
Thanks for your test results, anyway!
Pieter got a reaction from scrane in Testing recently bought SEL24105G lens
ISO 6400 will indeed result in blotchy/grainy images with little sharpness. Since you were shooting in a controlled environment off a tripod, I kind off assumed you were at ISO 100 and let the shutter speed be as slow as needed for proper exposure.
Pieter got a reaction from Kumar Nishit in Issue with new a6100 camera
I'd try a factory settings reset and see if the issue persists. Not sure which setting might cause this behaviour. It would be less annoying if the 16-50 lens collapsed immediately after switching the camera off but alas, it waits with collapsing until the camera is completely finished with whatever it's doing.
Hot pixels occur in cameras of all ages from all brands. I've occasionally spotted a hot pixel in my camera, but after a hot pixel mapping routine the issue was totally gone. Wouldn't worry about this as it's adequately dealt with in Sony cameras.
Pieter got a reaction from Gen in I can’t change aperture on Sony A600
The Meike 35mm F/1.7 is a fully manual 'dumb' lens, meaning it won't communicate with your camera. All settings have to be set manually and your camera won't know what aperture value or focus distance you set on the lens, and consequently won't show an aperture value on the screen. All your camera knows is the light exposure of the sensor, and it will set shutter speed and ISO accordingly for correct exposure.
All in all, working as intended.
Pieter reacted to joerg in Suitability of the Sony SEL200600G Lens for Astrophotography
In the second section I would like to discuss the possibility of photographing deep sky objects.
To achieve exposure times of a few seconds the earth's rotation has to be compensated, in my case by the equatorial mount CEM25P from iOptron. With the possibility of autoguiding, here by the MGEN3 from Lacerta in combination with a 50mm finder scope, exposure times of several minutes can be achieved. Seemingly small things are also important in my opinion, like a heating tape to avoid humidity condensation and the use of a dummy battery adapter to be able to run the camera constantly for several hours.
Emission and reflection nebulae
With the possibility to select the focal length almost arbitrarily between 200 and 1800mm, very many objects can be photographed with the SEL200600G. For emission nebulae with a primary emission at hydrogen-alpha and 656nm the use of an astromodified camera is recommended (replacement of the IR cut filter by clear glass). In my case I took a Sony A7R bought used at E-Bay and let it astromodify.
Orion nebula M42 Composit 10x10s and 30x180s ISO-800 F6.3 600mm 7xDarks 15xFlats 15xBias Optolong L-Pro Filter
Plejades M45 28x120s ISO-800 F6.3 600mm 5xDarks 26xFlats 20xBias
The same applies analogously to galaxies as to planetary photography. It is possible to photograph single galaxies. However, the optic is not fast and not long-wavelength enough for very detailed images.
Markajan chain 102x240s ISO-800 600mm F6.3 6xDarks 15xFlats 15xBias
M51 110x120s ISO-1600 1200mm F13 7xDarks 15xFlats 15xBias
Pieter reacted to joerg in Sony 200-600 mm Lens for Astrophotography?
To be clear: all the effort with the equatorial mount and elaborate post-processing, which caused me a learning cycle of more than half a year and a financial expenditure comparable to the purchase of a SEL200600G lens and a SEL20TC teleconverter, which are not cheap either, is only needed to photograph faint deep sky objects!
All the lunar images I posted here in the forum almost a year ago were taken exclusively with the following equipment: Sony A6000 camera, SEL200600G lens, SEL20TC teleconverter on a wobbly aluminium tripod! Partly I used a remote release RMT-DSLR2.
I used the following procedure for this:
1. Frame up the moon in the picture, filling about approx. 80% of the horizontal image area.
2. With the help of the focus magnifier, focus on a crater on the terminator as well as possible (today I would use the Bahtinov mask and a bright star!).
3. Use an exposure time of well under 1/10s (see below) and ensure a vibration-free release with the built-in timer or a remote control. Take 5-10 shots to catch one moment with little air turbulence, until the moon has finally run out of the frame.
Because I was unsure whether the focus was perfect, I went through this whole process 4-5 times in one evening and got a really beautiful moon image every night. I have to admit that in the beginning I even shot pure JPG and only did moderate post-processing (exposure and maybe a little sharpening). Of course, all the individual images with embedded meta data still exist and have not been deleted...
In this way, not only the moon can be photographed, but also various double stars and the bright planets (Venus, Jupiter, Saturn). However, the planetary images (my best Jupiter image is attached) are by no means comparable with those taken with fast and long focal length telescopes and special planetary cameras (webcams), which film thousands of pictures and do not take photos...
According to the "500 rule", you can use 500/1800 = approx. 1/3s exposure time with a fixed camera and an 1800mm lens on a tripot. In my experience, however, 1/6s is just about possible, 1/8 to 1/10s is better and anything shorter causes no problems at all.
With an equatorial mount, single exposure times of 15-30s are possible at such long focal lengths (1200-1800mm).
Only with an autoguider you can you achieve such good tracking that several minutes of exposure time can be achieved, which is very helpful for dark deep sky objects!
Pieter got a reaction from Rea in 4K recording in iPhone vs Sony
I think you'll need to read up a bit on the benefits of a large sensor. There's no denying that some of those benefits can be offset by heavy post-processing done in modern phones, but in the foreseeable future a large sensor will still produce a much cleaner image than a small one, especially in poor lighting conditions.
Pieter reacted to BrooklynFoto in Newbie looking for the right lens for Disney
Thanks for the recommendations. I have decided to leave the camera home, use my iPhone, and purchased the Memory Maker for 69.00. I want to enjoy my time with my family and not get bogged down with trying to learn lenses settings. Easy! This will give me time to learn the camera and practice with different lenses for future trips. Thanks all.
Pieter got a reaction from BrooklynFoto in Newbie looking for the right lens for Disney
Since you already purchased the Sigma trio, try those a bit to see which focal length works for you. I really love the Sigma 56mm f/1.4: many of my most memorable family portraits are shot with that lens. Still, its use case is quite specific as the field of view is fairly narrow. As a general, multi-purpose lens I find something in the 20-30mm focal length range more versatile.
However, for a one lens solution on a day trip I would again recommend the very versatile Tamron 17-70 f/2.8.
Pieter reacted to Rea in Is it a good time to buy the A6400?
Budget and and not being practical for me. I also didn’t like the software overall.
The kit lens isn’t what I was hoping for and I needed to buy an extra lens (the 35mm 1.8 with oss). This will cost me a lot overall and I can’t carry 2 lenses with me. $2000+ CDN for an APSC camera with two mediocre lenses is too much for me. Also I wasn’t blown away by the overall raw image quality and the used lens market isn’t that encouraging at the moment.
Pieter got a reaction from Rea in Is it a good time to buy the A6400?
Wasn't saying that the a6000 is a good choice in your specific case, just saying that last gen gear still has a place amongst current/next gen offerings. They usually offer much better value for money unless you really need the newest tech.
Thanks for the update. Care to explain what you don't like about it, so the next guy might learn from your experience?
Pieter got a reaction from Rea in Is it a good time to buy the A6400?
Honestly, noone can tell. Many people were pretty annoyed when Sony released the A6500 just half a year after the A6300. Don't be: the release of a new camera doesn't make the older generation any less good than it was, plus the newer generation will likely be much more expensive. I still advise many beginning photographers to buy an A6000, which is now 7 years old: it's still a great camera and incredible value for money.