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Pieter

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  1. Haha
    Pieter got a reaction from mirrorlessNY(youtuber) in sony 16–55mm f2.8 g   
    So you're gonna return it now?
    I guess 113 people viewed your post hoping you had something interesting to say about the 16-55 F2.8. Alas.
  2. Thanks
    Pieter got a reaction from mirrorlessNY(youtuber) in Which lenses to keep and to return? A6400   
    How can anyone but you decide which lenses to keep? We don't know your budget, use cases, storage space, bag size, tolerance to carrying heavy stuff around, tolerance of spouse to your excessive spendings, etcetera etcetera.
    If you really like that 16mm, you can sell everything else for all I care. Or keep it for you might one day find out you actually like 30mm and/or 56mm as well. Sell the 18-105, the Sigma primes are so much better! No wait, keep it: you might occasionally want to get some smooth zoom-action in your footage. It balances nicely on gimbals with that internal zoom as well. Heck, sell everything and buy the new Tamron 17-70 f/2.8 zoom. It's stabilised, just about covers your Sigms trio in terms of focal length and will likely be better optically than the 18-105. Darn, balancing that thing on your gimbal will be a pain...
    Choices choices... Something every single forum member out here has to deal with.
  3. Like
    Pieter got a reaction from Foxel in Looking for a 10mm CF wide angle lens.   
    That one, or a zoom like Sigma 10-20mm f/4-5.6 EX DC or Tamron SP AF 10-24mm f/3.5-4.5 Di II.
    There doesn't seem to be any Sony-branded A-mount lens at that focal length.
  4. Like
    Pieter got a reaction from Adrianfw in Sony A6000 Sports Lens Recommendations   
    Don't want to trigger your GAS but if you manage to get a good deal on the Tamron, you might want to consider buying a used a6500 with whatever you have left. I upgraded from an a6000 to a6500 a couple of years ago. The stabilized sensor, improved autofocus and much better ergonomics (deeper grip, more custom buttons) were all worth it. Oddly, those ergonomical improvements weren't adopted in the newer a6400. The a6500 also has a much deeper buffer than the newer cameras: 301 JPEGs versus 116 in a6400/a6600.
  5. Thanks
    Pieter got a reaction from Adrianfw in Sony A6000 Sports Lens Recommendations   
    The Tamron 70-180 would indeed be your best bet if you need a fast aperture, your budget is limited and 180 mm is enough reach for your purposes.
    Bear in mind that neither your a6000 nor the Tamron 70-180 is stabilized, so you may need to use a high shutter speed to prevent camera shake blur. When photographing sports events this shouldn't be a limitation as you'll need fast shutter speeds anyway to prevent motion blur by your subject, but the image in your viewfinder may be pretty jumpy.
  6. Haha
    Pieter got a reaction from BobB in sony 16–55mm f2.8 g   
    So you're gonna return it now?
    I guess 113 people viewed your post hoping you had something interesting to say about the 16-55 F2.8. Alas.
  7. Thanks
    Pieter got a reaction from DaviVascaino in Need some help! Transitioning from Canon DSLR to a Sony a7 III   
    You can, with a Metabones or Sigma MC-11 adapter. Results may vary in terms of autofocus, so check the web a bit on which adapter works best for your lenses.
    The adapters aren't cheap however and some of your old lenses are designed for APS-C format, so maybe you'd be better off just selling those and buying E-mount glass.
    Since you're not new to photography I assume you know the pros and cons of primes and zooms, and you know which focal lengths you like. I don't know your budget, but Samyang offers some cheap but great value for money primes, like the 45mm f/1.8 and 35mm f/1.8. I'd stay away from the Sony 50mm f/1.8: it's generally considered one of the very few disappointing lenses Sony made for E-mount.
    Sounds decent but I'm not familiar with North American market.
  8. Like
    Pieter got a reaction from Steve Waldman in Tamron 17-28mm   
    yes, distortion is about zero at 20mm and pincushion at 24.
    https://www.cameralabs.com/tamron-17-28mm-f2-8-di-iii-review/3/
  9. Like
    Pieter got a reaction from Steve Waldman in Autofocus question in A7RIII and A9   
    Focus area: Flexible spot - Small
  10. Thanks
    Pieter got a reaction from Wally The Confused in Lens Selection for Landscape & Architecture   
    Sorry but that's just really bad advise... Why would you want to buy a non-native APS-C lens to put on your fullframe camera via an adapter?
  11. Like
    Pieter got a reaction from Soumya in Saving a Picture After Enlarging It (Playback 2)   
    You can't. You can however enlarge it before taking the shot by using clear image / digital zoom. After taking the shot you can only enlarge / crop in post production.
  12. Like
    Pieter got a reaction from AntDX316 in Can you use Extension Tubes to fit the 2.0x Teleconverter?   
    Interesting thought, loosing a bit of focus distance at the far end wouldn't matter much when shooting macro. It would certainly help to increase the working distance. Keep us posted on your findings!
  13. Like
    Pieter got a reaction from AntDX316 in Can you use Extension Tubes to fit the 2.0x Teleconverter?   
    It might work but you'll loose infinity focus. Some even use an extension tube to stack two 2× TC's.
  14. Like
    Pieter got a reaction from Thad E Ginathom in Is This Battery A Fake??   
    My genuine Sony battery (came packed with camera) also has that trash can symbol. Likely one is for the European market (trash can) while the other is for the North American market. On the two batteries it also shows that they're both intended for different regions.
  15. Like
    Pieter got a reaction from mkbigmoz in Advice Needed on A7Siii and External Recorder   
    Your reply in no way answers OP's questions @Chrissie. You're raising all kinds of arguments against the use of 4k120p that may be totally irrelevant to OP:
    The maximum bitrate at 4k/120p 10 bit 4:2:2 is 280 Mbit/s or 35 MB/s (H.265 XAVC HS codec). A 160 GB card can record 4571 seconds at this bitrate, or 1h:16min. This is a much lower bitrate than 4k/60p 16 bit (600 Mbit/s), so I don't see why an external recorder couldn't handle this. Might need a firmware update though.
  16. Like
    Pieter got a reaction from Thad E Ginathom in A and RX   
    More like distant relatives: cousins would at least share the same mount, siblings the same sensor size.
  17. Like
    Pieter got a reaction from spectaculator in Lightest full frame lens for A7 mark II   
    The Samyang 35mm f/2.8 is about as small and light as it gets if you want AF. Lens weighs about 80 grams. Don't own the lens but reportedly image quality is pretty decent considering the weight and cost of the lens. Arguably on par with the 35 f/2.8 Sony/Zeiss.
  18. Thanks
    Pieter got a reaction from Dennisspeaks in Sony a6400 Lens Hood   
    When you buy a fast lens it'll likely be a prime (not a zoom) lens: those lenses have a wider aperture and are generally smaller and/or much better quality than a zoom lens at the same focal length.
    There are a couple of things you should consider before buying a prime:
     - Focal length: since you can't zoom, you'll need to change lenses to change focal length. Since your budget is tight, you probably want to buy only one lens for now. Best to practice with your 16-50 zoom for the next couple of weeks/months to see which focal you like the most, and buy a prime at that focal length.
     - Stabilization: For photography you can likely do without, but for video some kind of stabilisation is almost mandatory. Your options are (with various degrees of effectiveness): a tripod, a gimbal (for video), a camera with stabilized sensor or a lens with stabilized optics (called OSS in Sony-words). Your a6400 doesn't feature in-body image stabilisation (IBIS) but your 16-50 has OSS. You'll have to decide if you really need a lens with OSS, as many don't have this. You can test this by disabling image stabilisation through the menu of your a6400.
    Some good options:
    Sigma 16mm F/1.4, 30mm F/1.4 or 56mm F/1.4: great optics with bright aperture but no OSS.
    Sony 35mm F/1.8 OSS or 50mm F/1.8 OSS (be sure to search for the APS-C variants (designated E), not the fullframe version (FE)): good optics with OSS, but focal length may be a bit too long for everyday use.
    I'm quite happy with my Sony/Zeiss 24mm F/1.8 but it doesn't have OSS and is way overpriced considering Sigma's options (which weren't available at the time I bought it)
  19. Like
    Pieter got a reaction from Dennisspeaks in Sony a6400 Lens Hood   
    Ah, would have helped if you'd mentioned that in your initial post 😄 The 16-50 OSS is pretty much the only lens I know of that doesn't have a hood. It doesn't have a bayonet fitting either so any aftermarket lens hood has to be screwed into the filter thread, like this one from Fotodiox:
    https://youtu.be/BG4dJy1DKxk
    Because it screws in rather than clicks into place, you have to be careful to make sure the 'petals' of the hood are properly aligned with the 'viewing pyramid' as demonstrated by @Chrissie
    Personally I'd advise you to save yourself the hassle of fiddling with such a screw-in hood and just hold your hand over the lens if the sun is at an inconvenient angle, to prevent flare or loss of contrast. These wide-angle hoods are so 'shallow' that they barely block any direct sunlight anyway.
  20. Like
    Pieter got a reaction from Dennisspeaks in Sony a6400 Lens Hood   
    The size and shape of a lens hood totally depends on the lens it is used on and has nothing to do with the camera. A lens hood that is supplied with a specific lens should be a perfect fit and shouldn't cause black corners in photos.
    For what purpose do you want to buy a separate lens hood in addition to those supplied with your lenses?
  21. Like
    Pieter got a reaction from Thad E Ginathom in Flash for a6400   
    The Nissin i40 is a great match, really small and quite powerfull if the internal flash is insufficient. As with any flashgun, I'd suggest to flash it indirectly or you'll have quite harsh lighting. Use the ceiling to bounce your flash or better still: use the wall on either side of your subject.
  22. Thanks
    Pieter got a reaction from Wally The Confused in A7III with 1635 F2.8 GM   
    Your camera settings seem ok so no issue there. Be sure to disable stabilization when shooting from a tripod as your camera will try to compensate for shake that isn't there. This might result in a slight blur.
    It's quite difficult to assess your photos (am on phone atm). On the second photo it seems to be a depth of field / focus plane issue: the buildings in the back seem sharper than the trees/foliage. Same with the last image: focus seems to be more on the lightpost than on the buildings. Based on the perspective of the last image it seems to be a crop near the corner of the frame. In my opinion it is pretty sharp: corners always lack behind a bit in sharpness but I can still differentiate individual pixels along contrasty edges.
    When shooting a cityscape at such a distance, atmospheric haze or fog/smog will also deteriorate image sharpness.
  23. Thanks
    Pieter got a reaction from Wally The Confused in A7III with 1635 F2.8 GM   
    No, it's the other way around: higher resolution will result in more blurry pixels if the initial image wasn't sharp to begin with.
    Without more details about camera settings like shutter speed and aperture and other conditions like tripod use and subject movement it's totally impossible to guess what might cause unsharp pictures in your case.
  24. Like
    Pieter got a reaction from SAW in Eye AF, struggling with this camera   
    I'm not exactly sure but it seems your help reference is outdated: initially it worked like that on the A7(R)III but with a certain firmware update these cameras got a feature called 'real-time Eye-AF', removing the need to press a button to engage Eye-AF.
  25. Like
    Pieter reacted to tadwil in PK to E mount adapter with diaphragm control?   
    Unlike Sony, Canon, Nikon or any of the other mainstream brands that went 100% electronic connections to control everything, Pentax retained the mechanical control over the aperture settings to this day.  It never occurred to me to look for a DA to NEX adapter until I saw a picture of a DA to Fujifilm X-mount adapter at another forum.  The Haoge adapter I bought from Amazon has a zebra ring around the adapter body which should move the lever inside the adapter side to side.  Which in turn would push the aperture control linkage on the lens to open and close the diaphragm. 
    I am wondering whether a DA lens aperture would click into place at every 1/3 or 1/2 stop or will it be like a cine lens without clicks - probably the latter.
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