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  1. Confused
    Pieter reacted to photocowb0y in Sony a6600 questions   
    I do think that the a6000 works way better. In my experience, the performance of this mobile device is simply splendid.
  2. Thanks
    Pieter reacted to joerg in Suitability of the Sony SEL200600G Lens for Astrophotography   
    In the second section I would like to discuss the possibility of photographing deep sky objects.
    To achieve exposure times of a few seconds the earth's rotation has to be compensated, in my case by the equatorial mount CEM25P from iOptron. With the possibility of autoguiding, here by the MGEN3 from Lacerta in combination with a 50mm finder scope, exposure times of several minutes can be achieved. Seemingly small things are also important in my opinion, like a heating tape to avoid humidity condensation and the use of a dummy battery adapter to be able to run the camera constantly for several hours.

    Emission and reflection nebulae
    With the possibility to select the focal length almost arbitrarily between 200 and 1800mm, very many objects can be photographed with the SEL200600G. For emission nebulae with a primary emission at hydrogen-alpha and 656nm the use of an astromodified camera is recommended (replacement of the IR cut filter by clear glass). In my case I took a Sony A7R bought used at E-Bay and let it astromodify.

    Orion nebula M42 Composit 10x10s and 30x180s ISO-800 F6.3 600mm 7xDarks 15xFlats 15xBias Optolong L-Pro Filter

    Plejades M45 28x120s ISO-800 F6.3 600mm 5xDarks 26xFlats 20xBias
    The same applies analogously to galaxies as to planetary photography. It is possible to photograph single galaxies. However, the optic is not fast and not long-wavelength enough for very detailed images.

    Markajan chain 102x240s ISO-800 600mm F6.3 6xDarks 15xFlats 15xBias

    M51 110x120s ISO-1600 1200mm F13 7xDarks 15xFlats 15xBias
  3. Like
    Pieter reacted to joerg in Sony 200-600 mm Lens for Astrophotography?   
    To be clear: all the effort with the equatorial mount and elaborate post-processing, which caused me a learning cycle of more than half a year and a financial expenditure comparable to the purchase of a SEL200600G lens and a SEL20TC teleconverter, which are not cheap either, is only needed to photograph faint deep sky objects!
    All the lunar images I posted here in the forum almost a year ago were taken exclusively with the following equipment: Sony A6000 camera, SEL200600G lens, SEL20TC teleconverter on a wobbly aluminium tripod! Partly I used a remote release RMT-DSLR2.
    I used the following procedure for this:
    1. Frame up the moon in the picture, filling about approx. 80% of the horizontal image area.
    2. With the help of the focus magnifier, focus on a crater on the terminator as well as possible (today I would use the Bahtinov mask and a bright star!).
    3. Use an exposure time of well under 1/10s (see below) and ensure a vibration-free release with the built-in timer or a remote control. Take 5-10 shots to catch one moment with little air turbulence, until the moon has finally run out of the frame.
    Because I was unsure whether the focus was perfect, I went through this whole process 4-5 times in one evening and got a really beautiful moon image every night. I have to admit that in the beginning I even shot pure JPG and only did moderate post-processing (exposure and maybe a little sharpening). Of course, all the individual images with embedded meta data still exist and have not been deleted...
    In this way, not only the moon can be photographed, but also various double stars and the bright planets (Venus, Jupiter, Saturn). However, the planetary images (my best Jupiter image is attached) are by no means comparable with those taken with fast and long focal length telescopes and special planetary cameras (webcams), which film thousands of pictures and do not take photos...
    According to the "500 rule", you can use 500/1800 = approx. 1/3s exposure time with a fixed camera and an 1800mm lens on a tripot. In my experience, however, 1/6s is just about possible, 1/8 to 1/10s is better and anything shorter causes no problems at all.
    With an equatorial mount, single exposure times of 15-30s are possible at such long focal lengths (1200-1800mm).
    Only with an autoguider you can you achieve such good tracking that several minutes of exposure time can be achieved, which is very helpful for dark deep sky objects!

  4. Confused
    Pieter reacted to XKAES in Sony 200-600 mm Lens for Astrophotography?   
    Look at his specs.  This is nothing anyone can do with a Sony 200-600mm zoom.  Try it yours self.
  5. Thanks
    Pieter reacted to joerg in Sony 200-600 mm Lens for Astrophotography?   
    The plejades (M45), reflexion and no emission nebulae, but I like them (Sony SEL200600G on A6000 28x120s ISO-800 F6.3 @900mm 35mm equivalent 5xDarks 26xFlats 20x Bias):

  6. Thanks
    Pieter reacted to LiveShots in Α1 Problem   
    Update: B&H have accepted my return and will be shipping me a new α1 once they receive the next shipment.
    I think the next batch arrives on 5th April so hopefully less than 2 weeks before I can start shooting photos again.
  7. Like
    Pieter got a reaction from BartHovis in Sony A7Rii and Zeiss Loxia 35mm F2   
    It is in fact extremely sharp in the center wide open but the corners lag behind. Needs stopping down to f/4 or f/5.6 to get uniform (outstanding) sharpness.

  8. Like
    Pieter got a reaction from Rea in 4K recording in iPhone vs Sony   
    I think you'll need to read up a bit on the benefits of a large sensor. There's no denying that some of those benefits can be offset by heavy post-processing done in modern phones, but in the foreseeable future a large sensor will still produce a much cleaner image than a small one, especially in poor lighting conditions.
  9. Like
    Pieter reacted to BrooklynFoto in Newbie looking for the right lens for Disney   
    Thanks for the recommendations.  I have decided to leave the camera home, use my iPhone, and purchased the Memory Maker for 69.00.   I want to enjoy my time with my family and not get bogged down with trying to learn lenses settings.  Easy!     This will give me time to learn the camera and practice with different lenses for future trips.   Thanks all. 
  10. Like
    Pieter got a reaction from BrooklynFoto in Newbie looking for the right lens for Disney   
    Good choice 😉 My wife often asks: why are you not taking photo's of this moment? But at times it's just better to enjoy the moment as it is without looking through a viewfinder.
  11. Like
    Pieter got a reaction from BrooklynFoto in Newbie looking for the right lens for Disney   
    Since you already purchased the Sigma trio, try those a bit to see which focal length works for you. I really love the Sigma 56mm f/1.4: many of my most memorable family portraits are shot with that lens. Still, its use case is quite specific as the field of view is fairly narrow. As a general, multi-purpose lens I find something in the 20-30mm focal length range more versatile.
    However, for a one lens solution on a day trip I would again recommend the very versatile Tamron 17-70 f/2.8.
  12. Thanks
    Pieter reacted to Rea in Is it a good time to buy the A6400?   
    Budget and and not being practical for me. I also didn’t like the software overall.
    The kit lens isn’t what I was hoping for and I needed to buy an extra lens (the 35mm 1.8 with oss). This will cost me a lot overall and I can’t carry 2 lenses with me. $2000+ CDN for an APSC camera with two mediocre lenses is too much for me. Also I wasn’t blown away by the overall raw image quality and the used lens market isn’t that encouraging at the moment.
  13. Like
    Pieter got a reaction from Rea in Is it a good time to buy the A6400?   
    Wasn't saying that the a6000 is a good choice in your specific case, just saying that last gen gear still has a place amongst current/next gen offerings. They usually offer much better value for money unless you really need the newest tech.
    Thanks for the update. Care to explain what you don't like about it, so the next guy might learn from your experience?
  14. Like
    Pieter got a reaction from Rea in Is it a good time to buy the A6400?   
    Honestly, noone can tell. Many people were pretty annoyed when Sony released the A6500 just half a year after the A6300. Don't be: the release of a new camera doesn't make the older generation any less good than it was, plus the newer generation will likely be much more expensive. I still advise many beginning photographers to buy an A6000, which is now 7 years old: it's still a great camera and incredible value for money.
  15. Thanks
    Pieter got a reaction from SonyUser01 in Switch to a full frame Sony   
    The A7ii doesn't really have good autofocus. If you want something similar to a6500's AF, you should at least get the A7iii.
  16. Confused
    Pieter got a reaction from Karthikeyan in No sound on phone's playback   
    Turn up volume on your phone.
  17. Like
    Pieter got a reaction from sasdian in Which lens do you recommend to start wildlife photography / Sony a6000   
    Check my post here:
  18. Thanks
    Pieter got a reaction from Olaf W. in Banding on photos with background screen video with silent shutter.   
    The readout speed of the silent shutter of the A9 is about 3 times as fast as any of the other Sony Alpha cameras (and pretty much any other fullframe camera available at this moment, Canon and Nikon included). This helps a lot in reducing flicker/striping and makes it pretty much the only fullframe camera available that can be used reliably with silent shutter. With the A9, only very high frequency lighting (like some LED billboards) will cause significant banding. Not exactly sure how this affects video but for photography it should fix most of your issues.
  19. Haha
    Pieter got a reaction from mirrorlessNY(youtuber) in sony 16–55mm f2.8 g   
    So you're gonna return it now?
    I guess 113 people viewed your post hoping you had something interesting to say about the 16-55 F2.8. Alas.
  20. Thanks
    Pieter got a reaction from mirrorlessNY(youtuber) in Which lenses to keep and to return? A6400   
    How can anyone but you decide which lenses to keep? We don't know your budget, use cases, storage space, bag size, tolerance to carrying heavy stuff around, tolerance of spouse to your excessive spendings, etcetera etcetera.
    If you really like that 16mm, you can sell everything else for all I care. Or keep it for you might one day find out you actually like 30mm and/or 56mm as well. Sell the 18-105, the Sigma primes are so much better! No wait, keep it: you might occasionally want to get some smooth zoom-action in your footage. It balances nicely on gimbals with that internal zoom as well. Heck, sell everything and buy the new Tamron 17-70 f/2.8 zoom. It's stabilised, just about covers your Sigms trio in terms of focal length and will likely be better optically than the 18-105. Darn, balancing that thing on your gimbal will be a pain...
    Choices choices... Something every single forum member out here has to deal with.
  21. Like
    Pieter got a reaction from Foxel in Looking for a 10mm CF wide angle lens.   
    That one, or a zoom like Sigma 10-20mm f/4-5.6 EX DC or Tamron SP AF 10-24mm f/3.5-4.5 Di II.
    There doesn't seem to be any Sony-branded A-mount lens at that focal length.
  22. Like
    Pieter got a reaction from Adrianfw in Sony A6000 Sports Lens Recommendations   
    Don't want to trigger your GAS but if you manage to get a good deal on the Tamron, you might want to consider buying a used a6500 with whatever you have left. I upgraded from an a6000 to a6500 a couple of years ago. The stabilized sensor, improved autofocus and much better ergonomics (deeper grip, more custom buttons) were all worth it. Oddly, those ergonomical improvements weren't adopted in the newer a6400. The a6500 also has a much deeper buffer than the newer cameras: 301 JPEGs versus 116 in a6400/a6600.
  23. Thanks
    Pieter got a reaction from Adrianfw in Sony A6000 Sports Lens Recommendations   
    The Tamron 70-180 would indeed be your best bet if you need a fast aperture, your budget is limited and 180 mm is enough reach for your purposes.
    Bear in mind that neither your a6000 nor the Tamron 70-180 is stabilized, so you may need to use a high shutter speed to prevent camera shake blur. When photographing sports events this shouldn't be a limitation as you'll need fast shutter speeds anyway to prevent motion blur by your subject, but the image in your viewfinder may be pretty jumpy.
  24. Haha
    Pieter got a reaction from BobB in sony 16–55mm f2.8 g   
    So you're gonna return it now?
    I guess 113 people viewed your post hoping you had something interesting to say about the 16-55 F2.8. Alas.
  25. Thanks
    Pieter got a reaction from DaviVascaino in Need some help! Transitioning from Canon DSLR to a Sony a7 III   
    You can, with a Metabones or Sigma MC-11 adapter. Results may vary in terms of autofocus, so check the web a bit on which adapter works best for your lenses.
    The adapters aren't cheap however and some of your old lenses are designed for APS-C format, so maybe you'd be better off just selling those and buying E-mount glass.
    Since you're not new to photography I assume you know the pros and cons of primes and zooms, and you know which focal lengths you like. I don't know your budget, but Samyang offers some cheap but great value for money primes, like the 45mm f/1.8 and 35mm f/1.8. I'd stay away from the Sony 50mm f/1.8: it's generally considered one of the very few disappointing lenses Sony made for E-mount.
    Sounds decent but I'm not familiar with North American market.
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