Jump to content

Recommended Posts

I'm considering purchasing a Sony A7RIII or A7III. Something that I noticed is this orange T* icon near the side of the EVF component. Could anyone explain what this means? I tried to search for it elsewhere, but had no luck. I did notice that there are some lenses with this designation on them (e.g. Sony 24-70mm f/4 ZA Vario-Tessar T* OSS). Is this icon stating it is compatible with those lenses?

Thanks!

 

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Edited by Sean Eld
Adding additional information
Link to post
Share on other sites

Zeiss has been using the T* designation on most of their lenses for decades.  It is most frequently remembered due to their collaboration with Yashica when they both used the same lens mount -- commonly called the "C/Y-mount" -- referring to the Contax and Yashica SLR cameras that they collaborated in making.  Yashica and Zeiss created their own lines of lenses, but most could be used interchangeably on each others' cameras.  Many of their accessories where interchangeable as well.  And nearly all of their lenses were multi-coated -- they just used different labels -- with Zeiss calling their coating T*.  All the other lens companies multi-coated their lenses as well, and many of them came up with names that were "fancier" than "multi-coated", such as Yashica with "ML", Tamron with "BBAR", Fuji with "EBC", Minolta with "Apochromatic coating", etc.  And just as lens optical designs were different, lens coatings were different.  That doesn't automatically make one "better" than another.  Still, lots of shutterbugs (AKA, snobs) claim that one design, or coating, or brand is far superior to another.

Look up "cognitive dissonance" in any psychology text book.

Edited by XKAES
Link to post
Share on other sites

The viewfinders of cameras with the T* probably do have some Zeiss coating, but that can mean just about anything.  As with any "multi-coated" lens, the definition is not actually defined.  Minolta, Fuji, and some other lens makers have stated that their multi-coating varies from lens element to lens element -- and that it is only applied where it is beneficial.  In reality, some multi-coated lenses, may only have multi-coating on some elements -- with the other elements being single-coated.  For example, the Zeiss 500mm f8 T* Mirotar CAT -- one of the best 500mm CATS (along with the Yashica 500mm ML) -- appears to have only one multi-coated element.

So the "viewfinder" of some Sony cameras having a T* may simply mean that one side of one "element" in the viewing system has a Zeiss coating -- just like coated eye glasses!  Does it make a difference that you will notice?  Well, it can't hurt, I suppose.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Posts

    • ISO 320 is the A7R5's second base ISO setting. You will find at ISO 320 you will get better results than even ISO 200. I normally take a set of shots at 1600, 3200 and 6400 ISO. I am taking 60 light frames and 10 dark frames. I don't do any adjustments to the files before stacking. I really need to get organised and do some bias frames now. Here is pretty much my first successful Milky Way shot from a few months ago. I was combatting a bit of ambient light and quite a lot of cloud but I'm pretty happy with this. It was shot using my Sigma 16-28 f2.8 which is better at astro than I had anticipated, at ISO 1600.

      Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

      Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

    • Thanks for the information. Since my original post, I did some "experiments" at different iso settings. Best results were obtained at iso 320, and then increasing the exposure by four stops in Lightroom. The biggest difference compared to using a higher iso was that there was detail in dark foreground areas, while at high iso the dark areas were blocked. This is consistent with articles I've read about ISO invariance.
    • I do a bit of astro photography and do a lot of research etc. on best settings to use. I have never heard of anyone using ISO bracketing! Typically, higher ISO settings such as 1600, 3200 or 6400 are used and multiple light and dark frames are stacked to reduce noise. If you are worried about noise in dark foreground areas then just use a seperate exposure for them then blend the exposures in post processing. By the way, I also have an A7R5.
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...