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thebeardedgroundsman

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thebeardedgroundsman last won the day on March 20

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About thebeardedgroundsman

  • Birthday 09/02/1960

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    Male
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    Berkshire, England
  • Interests
    Canoeing/kayaking, cross country skiing, longbow archery, travel, being outdoors.

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  1. On reflection, I agree with Tadwil. - Having 5 axis stabilisation is a major benefit. (I had thought the A7 had IBIS because my "ancient" A100 had steady shot - but apparently the later A7 does not - or at least, nowhere near as good as the A7ii).
  2. It may not have all the gizmos and advances of the latest technology, but the A7 still has a good 24Mp sensor and will produce good photos. However, the issue is in getting one that is not worn out. For this reason I would recommend using a proper camera shop or reputable dealer like MPB, who will give you a true assessment of the condition and, usually, a 6 month guarantee. Personally I don't use the likes of E-bay or Gumtree for tis type of purchase as I'm always worried that they could be fencing stolen goods. Have fun with whatever you buy!
  3. To get a similar range as your 55-210mm on your APSC camera, you will need something like 70-300mm (you'll probably find 200mm top limit, frustrating) As Alisdairmac says, IBIS on your body allows you to get lenses without OSS - thus saving money for more lenses! Full frame gives a far greater range of options for wide angle lenses. If, by "nature" you are talking about moving birds and animals, you will probably want to make use of the A7iv's autofocus, but for Macro, or landscape, the aids for manual focussing on Sony Alpha is fantastic and opens up a lot of options with excellent quality at a lower price. Personally I love my Laowa 15mm zero distortion macro lens and my Zeiss Loxia 35mm.
  4. The lines signify that the ISO is not the true sensitivity but a virtual one, gained through clever software. The Cameras I know that have this option only have it below 100ISO and above some huge number (eg; 32,000 on my A6500) I'm not sure what your PP8 is.
  5. PPS To above post At £52 I suspect some professionals will think it is too cheap to be good enough for them - however, at that price is it worth not trying it out? I have recently attended courses run by professionals who have been impressed with Luminar's capabilities, when I have shown them - and they are both looking to move away from Adobe because of the subscriptions.
  6. I am very happy with Luminar, although Luminar Neo still hasn't got Dodge & Burn or Clone tools like Luminar Ai. One off payment and regular updates as they get further on with developing the software. Using Ai gives me quite a fast work flow. I have to admit that for de-noise, I use ON NoNoise Ai, which is vastly superior (Again a one off cost) PS: Luminar are based in Ukraine and are still working hard in spite of the current situation!
  7. Yep... I'm inclined to agree - good luck in convincing them that it makes commercial sense!
  8. The "Zoom qualities" are as stated on the lens - ie: 70mm - 200mm. The expense comes from the ability to achieve top notch images at every part of the zoom range, even in quite low light. The speed of AF and level of image stabilisation are other reasons for the expense. Have fun!
  9. I can understand your frustration. I suspect that Sony are concentrating on lenses for the larger groups of photographers, rather than specialisms. Tilt/Shift has generally been used by architecture photographers and much of the need for this type of lens can, arguably, now be done with software. There are other specialisms that Sony don't cater for in their lens lineup where 3rd party producers do. EG: 2x macro, zero distortion ultra wide angle, "probe" lenses etc.
  10. Ah... I suspect you have your camera set with "Focus Magnifier" on (found in the focus assist section of the menus) This magnifies the image in your viewfinder automatically when you adjust in manual focus. It then reverts to non-magnified image either when you press the shutter, or after a period of time you have set. It does not actually zoom the photo in. This is done so you can get the part of the image you want to be in perfect focus (you can adjust the position of the part of the image you see in the viewfinder using the ring on the back of the camera, or the touch screen if the camera is so fitted) I sometimes find this setting frustrating as the smallest touch of the focus ring turns it on. I generally use focus peaking as my main aid to manual focussing. I have yet to experiment with putting the focus magnifier on a custom button.
  11. Hi Kaiser The banding I am talking about are those vertical stripes. It is the even nature of the stripes that suggests to me it is something to do with the shutter. You've probably checked this, but is "silent shooting" turned off?
  12. Interesting to hear your thoughts on Square Framing, Winnie. I've just read an article in this week's "Amateur Photographer" by a landscape photographer who only uses the square format - sounds like another challenge! (along with monochrome images and long exposures.)
  13. Yep... you're right Pieter, my memory of every discussion is not good...Sorry.
  14. You say you are using mechanical shutter, but is the electronic front shutter setting switched on? if so, try it without. The issue appears to be the banding, rather than noise - it is just exaggerated by the noise, (I can see the banding all across your image) If you use post processing, then I wouldn't bother with High ISO noise reduction in camera as it takes as long as the actual shot, and is easier to deal with in post. (ON1 Nonoise Ai)
  15. Sigma do the 56mm f/1.4 contemporary - which is equivalent to 85mm - the traditional short tele length for portraits. They then do the 60mm f/2.8 and the 65mm f/2 contemporary. But you are right, the medium to long tele primes have not yet been developed for lightweight, compact, systems. Some lens manufacturers are beginning to work towards more compact lenses by relying on in-camera or post production software to correct distortion - so I guess they will soon be available.
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