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thebeardedgroundsman

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Everything posted by thebeardedgroundsman

  1. A bit of a curved ball ... For landscape and architecture, where you can take your time setting up, I'm becoming more convinced by manual focus primes. EG; Voightlander 35mm Nokton classic f/1.4.
  2. Yep, I've just tried it and sure enough it works. And I also get the other points re: peripheral vision (that was my original thought for an explanation) and of course the captured image will be different - size of print/screen etc etc. I like the explanation in the link Pieter posted, indicating that the perspective is similar to the human eye. This makes sense when wide angle lenses lengthen the perspective, making the foreground, mid ground and background look further apart, and telephoto lenses making them look closer together.
  3. Not specifically Alpha lenses,....but... For a long time I've been told that 50mm (or there abouts) is the standard focal length for a full frame (or 35mm SLR) because it gives a view very close to that of the human eye. I've just been playing with my 50mm, lining it up on my computer screen, then taking the camera away and finding that my eye sees a much wider field of view (other eye closed). I then tried again with other lenses and find my field of view is somewhere between 15 and 24mm (probably about 20mm - but I don't have that size lens for FF). My optician has never told me I have unusually wide vision, so how am I misinterpreting the term "Standard Lens? This question is purely out of interest - I use 50mm when I feel it's right for the subject I am photographing.
  4. I don't think you're crazy. A nifty fifty for Town and general, then the 24mm for landscapes sound reasonable to me. You'd need to get used to "zooming-with-your-feet", but a lot of photographers find the discipline of using prime lenses leads to more interesting photos.
  5. I picked up a Sony 100-400 GM for £1400 2nd hand from MPB. I used to have a longer zoom from Sigma - much cheaper, but I didn't like the build quality or AF.
  6. Hi First the obvious question. Is your lens scrupulously clean? Secondly, (now I am making educated guess) the G 70-200 has a constant minimum aperture of f/4 (GM is F2.8) whereas the GM 100-400 starts at f/4.5 and moves up to 5.6 at 400mm. So, I would expect low light performance of the shorter lens is better than that of the longer one - particularly as, I believe, longer lenses tend to struggle more with low light and wide contrast, than a wider lens of similar quality.
  7. Ah Ha! I've found my mistake... My bags/back pack are plenty big enough and I don't over pack them, but I DO use the quick access options, which are tighter than the fully open access. I'll just have to get in the habit of using the fully open access, when I plan a shot, although I will still use the quick access for those opportune shots thatI often take (the light being just right on the way to work, or the wildlife appearing near the road.).
  8. Hi Olaf I think a new version of this survey would be interesting. I guess the categories might be : A 6???, A7 series, A7R series, A7S series, A7C, A9/ A!, older mirrorless, SLR/T. But for me the interest is in the question, Why? also, If people have changed series (again, Why?)
  9. My camera bodies (like my own body) are getting old and well used. Recently I've found the power switches are getting knocked on, when I take them in and out of my camera bag. Does anyone have a simple solution to stopping this happening? (other than being more careful!)
  10. My camera bodies (like my own) are getting old and well used. Recently I've found the power switches are getting knocked on, when I take them in and out of my camera bag. Does anyone have a simple solution to stopping this happening? (other than being more careful!)
  11. I'm not familiar with Windows computers. I just download my card to "photos" and click the button to delete after download. This keeps my memory cards clean. EXIF details including date and time are attached and thumbnails show as miniatures of the photo. Whenever I have encountered Windows computers I have always been struck by how complicated they make simple operations. As for software for stills, I don't have any Adobe stuff, but use Luminar Ai, which is simple to use and relatively cheap to buy.(very good for removing distortion and weird angles that Wide angle lenses often portray - not what you want for real estate photographs.) I can't telly about video software - as I don't shoot video.
  12. Thanks Tadwil - that's the conclusion I'm coming to - for the same reasons. (I find my monopod also doubles as a walking stick 😉
  13. When I use my tripod, I turn off all the Steady shot options, as they can be counter productive to the solid hold of the tripod. But what settings should I be using with my monopod. I have an A7Rii, and use the monopod with my 100 - 400mm GM, which has OSS modes 1 & 2. I use the lens for wildlife photos, generally with a shutter speed between 1/500 - 1/1000. Reading the manual, I would have thought Mode 2 (panning) might make sense, However, some reviewers recommend leaving steady shot on, unless taking long exposures on a tripod. I am trying different settings, but wonder what others do.
  14. Hi Tadweel Looks good, I understand what you are saying about grip. Fortunately for me (i never thought I would say this) my hands and fingers are quite wide and stubby, with strength developed from 40 odd years of working with hand tools, that I find my little finger nicely supports the camera without any extension to the body. Horse for courses! Cheers
  15. I've not got either, but I have owned Sigma Art lenses and Sony Zeiss lenses. I like the colour rendition on Zeiss lenses but I found both ranges produce excellant photos. The Zeiss is slightly smaller and slightly lighter. Does a lens being a little dated affect it's quality? On this occasion, if I was making the choice, I think price would be the deciding factor.
  16. My favourite Ultra wide lens is the manual Laowa 15mm f/2 (zero distortion) It has the neat advantage of focusing very close for a macro foreground, but still catching a wide background. It also takes 72mm screw on filters, where most ultra wide lenses have a bulbous front element that stops this. Being manual, it's inexpensive for a wide angle lens - the downside is that it has no electrical connection, so shutter priority is not angled option, although Aperture priority is fine (what I use for this type of photography anyway) Also, no weather sealing, but build quality is good.
  17. 2nd hand -n I've seen a Tamron 70-30mm for under £500 on MPB, Sony 70-300mm under £800 - longer than that you are looking at over £1000.
  18. This may sound silly...but do you use lens hoods?
  19. As A6500 is APS-C you can use any of them, 1 & 2 are designed for APS-C only - so if you think you might ever get a full frame camera then 3, 4 or 5 are also suited and would stop the need to get a 2nd converter. 2 & 4 have auto focus built into them - so (as Michele says) these are best if your lenses don't have SSM or SAM focussing. My very old DT lens needs a 2 or 4 So, in conclusion, I would go for the LA-EA4, unless you find LA--ea 2 significantly cheaper, if the designation on your lens has SSM or SAM in it - I'd go for a 5.
  20. Hi Tadwill Maybe the problem I had with wobbly plates when I had a Manfrotto was due to the make of clamps I used - I tried Leofoto and Colorado Tripod co. - I guess any mixing of different makes comes with a note of caution - some work, some don't. It did not occur to me that people use L-brackets for better grip - it's always interesting to hear of things being used for purposes other than what they were designed for! For your purpose I understand you enjoying the Smallrig - which does deepen the body of the camera.
  21. My L-bracket (for Arca Swiss) is the Three Legged Thing "Ellie", as it has full length plates which mean the lens can easily be centred over the middle of the tripod. It gives good access to ports and battery compartment and, as a bonus can have a plate that also fits a Peak Design clip (in my case it came as a free bonus!!). Cheap L plate for Manfrotto - https://www.amazon.co.uk/L-Plate-Release-Vertical-Manfrotto-055m0-q2/dp/B07D3KYRWY/ref=pd_lpo_2?pd_rd_i=B07D3KYRWY&psc=1 or https://www.amazon.co.uk/Universal-Release-Bracket-Manfrotto-200PL-14/dp/B07J9XVS1L From my experience, you need to be a bit careful changing clamps on Manfrotto heads because the shallow socket on some clamps do not quite fit the "plug" on the Manfrotto head. (I tried a couple and found they wobbled, or came loose - I then changed heads completely.)
  22. Fugasun do such an L plate - I've not seen one so I don't know the quality, But starting at £14 from Amazon it should be worth trying.
  23. I'm no expert, but, to me I suspect the lines are there on other pictures, but are more noticeable in some photos. My gut feeling is that it is more likely to be sensor or shutter than lens (because lines are in focus). To test this try taking a photo of a plain dark surface with the lens well out of focus and at different focussing distances (leaving the camera and surface the same distance apart). If the lines are sharp it suggests camera rather than lens. If so, take the lens off and shine a light into the camera to inspect the sensor - you might be able to see scratch marks. I'm thinking the sensor might have been cleaned in the past with a dirty cleaner, in a vertical direction. Unusual, as most people who clean sensors do it from side to side as sensor cleaning swabs are designed for specific size sensors (full frame, APS-C etc) to be used in once in each direction. This is what caused me to think it might be caused by a faulty shutter. As XKAES suggests, if you have other lenses, try them. If the fault appears with all lenses - it is a camera issue, if only in the one lens, it will be the lens at fault. If the reason is not obvious by now, I would take the camera to a reputable dealer to have a look. Good luck with resolving the problem.
  24. I've just tried a card formatted in my A7Rii, in my A6500, and vice-versa and they both work fine. My old A100 used compact flash cards so I don't know if Konica Minolta cameras are able to physically take "modern" cards.
  25. I'm not sure why you have a problem, is your Mac system upto date? If you have formatted the card in-camera for the first time and it has fixed that issue, that was probably the problem - any new cards you get will need formatting in the same way. (It could be that your Fujifilm came with a card already formatted?) If you import to Photos and click the "delete after import" button. it clears those files from your card - so the camera is "unable to display". It does not mean you cannot display new photos on the card. There should be no problem transferring .AWR (RAW) files to photos. I do it all the time from my A7Rii. There is no need to re-format your card every time, although it is good practice to do it every now and again. I cannot comment on video as I don't shoot any.
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