Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Lately, I’ve been doing a lot of shooting at the beach. I don’t dare take the A7RIV. I also don’t dare change lenses at the beach.

I’ve been using the Sony 70-350 mm for shooting seagulls. But, 70 mm is too long for other beach photos and as I said, I don’t dare change lenses at the beach. I have the Sony 18-135 mm, but 135 is too short. So, I’m thinking the Sony 18-200 mm LE lens. I’ve seen mixed reviews on that lens.

Any Opinions?

John

Link to post
Share on other sites

Given the other gear in your arsenal you'll surely be disappointed. The non-LE version supposedly is a bit better but also more bulky. If you don't want so swap lenses and want a versatile zoom range, I think you'll be better off getting an RX10IV.

Link to post
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, Pieter said:

Given the other gear in your arsenal you'll surely be disappointed. The non-LE version supposedly is a bit better but also more bulky. If you don't want so swap lenses and want a versatile zoom range, I think you'll be better off getting an RX10IV.

It looks like I will need to decide between Seagulls or beach. I think Seagulls wins.

John

Link to post
Share on other sites

I did this photo with the 70-350 G lens. I don't think the 18-200 will be as good. 

John

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Posts

    • ISO 320 is the A7R5's second base ISO setting. You will find at ISO 320 you will get better results than even ISO 200. I normally take a set of shots at 1600, 3200 and 6400 ISO. I am taking 60 light frames and 10 dark frames. I don't do any adjustments to the files before stacking. I really need to get organised and do some bias frames now. Here is pretty much my first successful Milky Way shot from a few months ago. I was combatting a bit of ambient light and quite a lot of cloud but I'm pretty happy with this. It was shot using my Sigma 16-28 f2.8 which is better at astro than I had anticipated, at ISO 1600.

      Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

      Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

    • Thanks for the information. Since my original post, I did some "experiments" at different iso settings. Best results were obtained at iso 320, and then increasing the exposure by four stops in Lightroom. The biggest difference compared to using a higher iso was that there was detail in dark foreground areas, while at high iso the dark areas were blocked. This is consistent with articles I've read about ISO invariance.
    • I do a bit of astro photography and do a lot of research etc. on best settings to use. I have never heard of anyone using ISO bracketing! Typically, higher ISO settings such as 1600, 3200 or 6400 are used and multiple light and dark frames are stacked to reduce noise. If you are worried about noise in dark foreground areas then just use a seperate exposure for them then blend the exposures in post processing. By the way, I also have an A7R5.
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...