Thad E Ginathom

Wow. Sounds like you are already a master of raw processing. How did you do the conversion then? Are you looking for a process that will "churn out" jpegs from raws? Can one get closer to that than applying a standard profile in your chosen converter? Would the results be acceptable?

Or two! One considerd good, and one considered not so good.

If you want speed, take jpegs in the camera. Raw is not about speed: it is about flexibility and what you can do with a raw that you can't do with a jpeg. Most of the time, my a6500 produces better jpegs than my raw-processing skills can. I shoot raw+jpg to be covered for the times that it doesn't. Why are you shooting raw?

I went from film to P&S to mirrorless, and have no experience/knowledge of the entire DSLR generation , but vaguely remember reading that, as mirrorless focus, being a function of the sensor itself, is always at the focal plane and front and back focussing adjustment is providing for the lenses that use the Sony adapters that provide DSLR-like focusing mechanisms.

Did you do what it says and download it again? It is most likely that the message is literally correct.

I admire your sense of adventure, and congratulate you on your success! Loading those non-Sony apps that do such stuff could be both interesting and beneficial, and we know that at least some people have already tested them. To the straight question on loading a different model's firmware, my previous answer stands. But I take my hat off to those who develop apps and find ways of unlocking features. Even though I'd be shy to risk my camera: I'd have to really, really want the mod. On the other hand, that I can root it is a condition of purchase when it comes to my Android phones --- but I don't spend so much on a phone. What is the current situation? I understand that Sony had released the API for app development.. but, since the a6500, has dumped the who app concept.

The a6000 may be low-priced, but is it cheap enough to brick? Would it be possible to just load a different model's firmware? If it is, then Sony is more stupid than I think. It is pretty basic to check for model number, existing firmware version, etc. Would it be possible to hack it? Probably. I seem to remember reading that there is a method of changing the firmware model number, iirc, it was in the context of removing the 30-minute video limit (and may have been for a different camera). Would it be wise? Nope. With lots and lots of luck you might end up with menu options that don't do anything. With a little less, you might end up with a camera that doesn't do anything.

There are two such "focus helpers." One is the one which magnifies as soon as the focus ring (on an electronically-connected lens) is turned.I think this one is called MF assist. The other is called focus magnifier, and this is what you can use with a manual lens. This is not operated by the focus ring, not even with an automatic lens: you have to assign it to a button. There are two levels of magnification. Focus peaking senses contrast in the image. Once turned on, with your camera set to MF or DMF, it just works.

Mine has this slight toc too. My theory: it is locking the IBIS mechanism and securing the sensor.

I would not use cold electronics in warm indoor air, as condensation is very possible, even on the inside. Cannot say this was the cause of your problem, it's just a guess. But better to let the camera come to room temperature in its bag before use.

The 16-50 power-zoom kit lens has only one ring. I almost never use this lens, but with a quick look to remind myself... In autofocus modes, the ring zooms. The rocker switch also zooms In manual focus modes, the ring focuses. The rocker switch has to be used for zooming. Indeed, the looks-like-it-zoomed symptom sounds like the focus-assist function.

Why, oh why, did it take me two or three years to realise this! I have a mixed relationship with Face Detect. I am usually photographing groups of people (musicians on a stage) and I do usually want the focus to be on one of them. And Face Detect usually does its job. With focus zone set to wide it usually detects the face I want, which figures prominently in the frame. Sometimes, though, it goes off on its own trip, and decides that it prefers the face just behind that person, or even someone on the edge of the frame. And then it is going to be a fight, perhaps for the whole concert. So I set a flexible spot. Takes a little longer to get it on my person's face. And Face Detect overrides it! WhyOhWhy can't they have made it work with focussing zones, not independently of them? It would then be so easy to say, "Hey, this guy!" At long last, yesterday, I found my way out of this: turn it off. Such a relief! And the best thing is that Face/Eye Detect is still there, at the touch of a button (a6500, not full-time). Maybe this is one of the simplest lessons to learn. Sometimes they take the longest to realise.

Chrissie gives good advice based on much experience, so I going to request that he critiques my criticism of your downtown shot. I'm a a beginner too, and have, only for the past couple of years, been trying to take good portrait shots of classical-Indian musicians. Its... coming along :) There are two things that strike me about your downtown pic. Sometimes, I look at my own photos, and although finding nothing particular wrong with them, wonder what was the point! Most of those get deleted. I feel that if I had taken your pic, I might have thought it a good idea at the time, but later wish I had moved a few steps to the right, because, what is the point of the wall. Unless it is an exercise in depth of field. in which case that is perfectly valid. The other thing harps back to a lesson a photographer friend of mine told me years ago, seeing some holiday landscapes I had taken: "Get your horizons straight!" Now, I am not often out in the landscape, with horizons, so it is the verticals that matter. And, if you are going to include a prominent architectural feature, like your wall, that should be vertical. I have to admit that this is something I often fail at in-camera, and have to correct afterwards. I started with a6000 and fairly quickly moved to a6500. The in-camera level was something I was looking forward to, but it is simply not very accurate. Feel free to tell me I'm wrong: this is just my personal view/opinion. I'm a learner too.

<Facepalm> Good grief, so it does! What an idiot I am. I can only think of one shot in recent months that I can recall needing manual focus adjustment for, but that's no excuse. Cheers!

This is interesting, and may help answer your question: Is the RØDE VideoMic compatible with my camera? --- on the Rode site.