Your manual focusing experience

[Golem]

`

 

My only use for AF is as a 3rd hand. If I got

a camera in my right hand, and a flash in my

left hand, before AF I hadda crash all that

stuff together to turn the focusing ring, for

real time focusing or just to change a preset

focus. Since such flash pix are not shot at

wider stops, preset focus usually worked for

all but the most crucial, key images within

an event coverage situation.

 

Since this type of job can be entirely done

more than well enuf by a 28-105 zoom, all I'd

really needed was just one AF lens. All the

rest of the herd could be pre-AF if using the

Nikon. If using the Maxxum, acoarst all the

lenses were AF anywho.

 

`

[Marve Almar]

I used only AF until I got my A7 around a year ago (maybe a little more). As I didn't like the big square focus area that came with contrast AF I started testing MF. I hated using focus by wire (and still do) and purchased the Zeiss 100 mm makro planar. After a few weeks I was hooked on MF and have been testing loads of lenses since then. I'm feeling quicker and more accurate with MF than I ever did with AF and I'm photographing a lot of kids and I'm using shallow depth of field a lot.

 

My biggest complaint is that I would like a softer and bigger eyecup as I often struggle in bright daylight.

[addicted2light]

My biggest complaint is that I would like a softer and bigger eyecup as I often struggle in bright daylight.

 

I had the same problem with both my Nex 7 and A7r. I solved it slipping, on top of the original Sony eyepiece, a Nikon DK-19 rubber eyepiece.

 

You will have to be a bit careful stretching it without tearing it apart (but it is pretty resistant, anyway). It will stay put and it will not interfere with the eye sensor.

 

Obviously you will discard the little metal ring that sometimes comes with the DK-19, and will use instead just the rubber part.

 

Actually for my Nex 7 I used an original Nikon one I had laying around, but for the A7r I bought instead a cheap Chinese knock-off that for 1/10 of the price does exactly the same job

[addicted2light]

Given that a picture is wort a thousand words here there are a couple of snapshots taken with my phone of the entire setup (and yes I know my A7r is dirty, I've just come back from the mountains and there was a lot of dust thanks to the heat wave we're experiencing):

 

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[Marve Almar]

I had the same problem with both my Nex 7 and A7r. I solved it slipping, on top of the original Sony eyepiece, a Nikon DK-19 rubber eyepiece.

 

You will have to be a bit careful stretching it without tearing it apart (but it is pretty resistant, anyway). It will stay put and it will not interfere with the eye sensor.

 

Obviously you will discard the little metal ring that sometimes comes with the DK-19, and will use instead just the rubber part.

 

Actually for my Nex 7 I used an original Nikon one I had laying around, but for the A7r I bought instead a cheap Chinese knock-off that for 1/10 of the price does exactly the same job

Thanks a lot! I have actually considered something like that, but didn't know what eyecup to try out. I will definitely buy a couple to test.

 

Thanks!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[addicted2light]

Thanks a lot! I have actually considered something like that, but didn't know what eyecup to try out. I will definitely buy a couple to test.

 

Thanks!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Don't mention it!

[Golem]

New aspect of my "manual focusing experience":

 

Just got a manual focusing screen for my Canon

5D-Mk2. Definitely better than the original "bright"

screen, but then again, guess-focusing by scales

on the lens barrels is also very frequently better

than trying to focus via the original screen ....

especially for wide angles.

 

Soooo, it's "definitely better". If that sounds like

damning with faint praise, you got that right. It

is better than scale focusing, mainly cuz today's

distance scales either sukk, or are absent. Best

MF remains the live-view function.

[Nordentro]

I bought the Olympus E-p1 in 2009 and start using manual focus lenses after a few months when adapters showed up. My first legacy lens was Industar 69 (28mm f/2.8) followed by Helios-44, Jupiter-8 and a few other cheap Russian lenses. Most of the lenses where m42, m39 or C-mounts the first couple of years. I upgraded to Olympus OM-D at launch and further to A7R and A7 II which works really well with legacy lenses. My lens collection grew to other formats and many lens mounts and I am still buying and enjoying lenses

 

 

Most of my lenses are presented here (you may have to refresh the site once):

http://lenses.new4m.com/

 

And I also write a blog in my native language Norwegian:

http://manuellfokus.no

 

The world of classic lenses is wonderful and my interest just keep growing

A few samples from my work:

 

Nikkor 8.5cm f/2

 

Tanaka Kogaku Tanar 35mm f/2.8

 

Carl Zeiss Jena Biometar 80mm f/2.8

 

Meyer Gorlitz Orestor 100mm f/2.8

 

Olympus Pen F 60mm f/1.5

 

Olympus Zuiko C. 4cm f/2.8

 

A. Schacht Ulm Tele-Travelon 200mm f/4

 

Staeble Lineogon 35mm f/3.5

 

Fed 28mm f/4.5 (1937)

[Old Dog]

Started being serious about photography in the late sixties using a Canon 7s (couldn't afford the leica). Some years later got my first leica and over the next 30 year acquired some very nice leica glass. I loved the darkroom and film and resisted digital. Finally gave in and started using a fixed lens Fuji 100x, all the while missing the 35 and 90 Summicron, and most of all the Summilux 75. ($8000 for a digital leica m body was not going to happen).

Yesterday my Alpha 7RII arrived as well as the voigtlander vm-e adapter... and I am blown away. The manual focus of these great lenses on the Sony was outstanding (better than what it was with Leica M7). Beyond the camera's ability of focus peaking, the focus magnification function was a revelation, reminding me of just how sharp these lenses are. Not posting photos yet, but couldn't be happier. Thank you Sony - you brought photography back to me. 

[nomad]

@Nordentro

 

And I thought I had a serious addiction to collecting lenses. Thanks for giving me an excuse to my wife ;-)

 

Nice photographs too…

[Nordentro]

Thx, nomad

I keep saying to my better half, legacy lenses are good investments

[nomad]

Well, at least my better half is an avid photographer too and she absolutely loves one of my most expensive vintage lenses, the Minolta 250mm RF. 

 

For some reason she adores that strange bokeh…

 

And being a good investment has some truth to it, for insurance on a journey I surveyed current prices for some of my glass. Oh boy, have some of those Minoltas gained in value since the Sony A7 line is out!

[Nordentro]

The Meyer Trioplan 100mm sold for $150 just five years ago, avarage now is $500

Cyclop 85mm sold for $50 untill a couple of years ago and you can easly get $300 today for a nice copy

[VANGSTR]

Great topic and read.  However, I am struggling with my 50mm lux on my A7Rii via VM-E.  This manual focus thing is quite the troubled storm for me lately.  Anyone have any pointers on how I can better manual focus my subjects??? 

 

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[seb]

Great topic and read.  However, I am struggling with my 50mm lux on my A7Rii via VM-E.  This manual focus thing is quite the troubled storm for me lately.  Anyone have any pointers on how I can better manual focus my subjects??? 

 

Practice!

A little more serious:

1. Use 1 or 2 f-stop more than with AF.

2. Use the EVF not the display.

3. if there is not much time, forget about highest focus magnification. set the focus magnification time to "no limit".

4. Set peaking color and peaking level to your taste.

5. shoot in A mode with auto-ISO (and the ISO-range which is ok for you) and lowest shutterspeed setting (ISO auto min. SS). so you only have to think about f-stops.

6. turn off live view display. it's better to magnify without the live view. put the preview on a button.

 

Your picture looks like you have to handle moving "subjects":

Whenever possible, try to prepare the shot. If I have to focus manually on moving things, I'll pre-focus on something with the same distance, then I'll go a little bit more away with the focuspoint (towards the horizon) and remind me in which direction I have to pull the focus (towards me) on the lens. then I push the preview button and hold it (so the magnifier window would not open when I refocus, not necessary with a mechanical lens/adapter). when the object is coming, I slightly refocus and press the release button.

 

And with legacy lenses, don't forget the steady shot settings.

[VANGSTR]

Thanks for the pointers.  I will practice some more with the tips.  My other pics seems to be focused on the neck or ears and the eyes and facial area are soft.  

[izzikiorage]

What steady shot settings are needed for a manual lens? Since the lens has the stabilization wouldn't having any settings be the same thing?

 

I have focus peaking at Red and the lowest setting. I usually see if i get the red peaking glow in the eyes, then shoot. Takes practice but it works great

[seb]

General rule (on the A7RII): Always use the steady shot function, even if your lens has a form of stabilisation. Turn it off on a tripod, if you are not shooting with EFCS. But as long as you should using EFCS up to 1/1000s or 1/2000s anyway (2nd general rule ), it doesnt matter at all, if you accidently let stabilisation on.

 

Why I wrote the last sentence: A lot of MF-only lenses are legacy glass, that you are adapting over a mechanical adapter. To get the stead shot function working the right way then, you have to set the focal length in the menu.

[pfogle]

One thing to look out for is that you will almost always use 'focus and recompose', which in the old Leica days was the only way! Still true with the magnifier, though I do move it around if I'm using a tripod.

 

The biggest source of error for me is moving slightly while recomposing. It's sooo easy to go an inch forward or back without realising. You have to brace yourself, and have the model keep still, for maybe half a second. It's harder than you think; but I would say that holding a camera steady is the main sign of a really experienced photographer. More important than lens sharpness IMO.

 

One other thing, practice manual focus on slow stuff first. Like music, you have to start learning stuff slowly, you'll get quicker soon enough...

[izzikiorage]

On my NEX 6 I've started using one more trick. When the image is in focus there is a slight moire type effect. I usually spot this and use it to determine focus

 

Other than that it seems that practice is helping. I'm getting better at this. Now need to improve how steady i hold the camera

[joshinthecity]

I've had no issues with quite a few manual lenses that I have. Some quite fast. No issue.

Then the other day, I met my match....

 

The Mitakon Zhongyi Speedmaster "Dark Knight" 50mm f0.95 arrived

Holy balls..

 

I need to go back to the drawing board with my technique...

 

Luckily I enjoy a challenge.

and this thing is challenging me.  :-)

[izzikiorage]

Would love to know how you master it. And any tips tricks and learning that you find.

[0phil]

I think it's best to learn to shoot with manual focus but after that auto is OK. It's tough to learn about planes of focus with auto focus. 

I've auto focussed only in the past 5 years or so with my Sonys but I still used my manual focus Leicas all the time-in fact just now.