Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

 

13633638835_85f3bd1b1f_o.jpg

 

13666165665_5f03acffb9_o.jpg

 

14630178682_d12079f51f_o.jpg

 

14767844944_1e1e1a7133_o.jpg

 

The Canon FD 2.8/20 is a very nice and affordable super wide angle lens, I have used mine for over a year now and i am very happy with the results.

 

For more information you can check out my review: Canon FD 20mm 1:2.8

 

If you have any questions please ask.

 

Phillip

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Great images.

 

Other reviews tend to point out that older WA's often have more problems than newer ones and in that respect don't you think it would be wiser to spend $350 on a newer design? ($350 was the chepeast nFD 20 2.8 i could find at eBay).

So which newer design for $350 are you thinking about? I don't know any apart from CaNikons 2.8/20 lenses which will perform very similar to this lens. Plus $350 is a bit high the lens usually sells for a little over $200.

 

At f/2.8 this lens is pretty bad. At f/11 it is really great. For landscapes I usually use f/11 so it works great for that.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

I'm pretty sure that "N-FD" doesn't especially mean

a later optical design than regular "FD". "N-FD" was

canon's designation for their overly complex "faux

bayonet" mounting system, which replaced the original

simple, reliable, breach locking ring. So I can't see

paying extra for an "N-FD".

 

"N" = "new".

"N-FD" = "new FD".

 

But "FD" is NOT an optical designation. It designates

the meter-coupled breach lock that replaced the "FL"

mount which was the same breach lock but was suitable

only for metering at working aperture.

 

The very earliest Canon SLR breach lock was the "R"

mount, whose auto-iris lever is incompatible with the

later "FL" breach lock mount, but since the mount is

the same, I spoze an "R" mount lens would work on a

manual-only breach lock to mirrorless adapter, since

all the dimensional specs of the body flange never

changed from "R" to "FL" to "FD" to "N-FD".

 

----------------------------------------------------

 

FWIW, IIRC [witch eye bleeb eye dew], the purpose of

the "N-FD" was to coddle the idiots Canon attracted by

replacing the [wondrous] Canon FE with the [way toidy]

AE-1. Apparently, the unusualness of a breach lock was

feared by Canon's marketing mavens as likely to reduce

market share.

 

-----------------------------------------------------

 

Thatz history for today chilrin. Tomorrow we will study

shutter actuating mechanisms of the peloponnesian era.

 

 

 

`

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Posts

    • Hola, parece que estan agotados, saludos Felipe 
    • I'd suggest you start by running a simple test.  Take pictures of a typical scene/subject and each of the JPEG settings your camera offers.  Then compare them in the output that you normally produce.  You may or may not see a difference.  I normally shoot at the highest JPEG level and save that file -- but make a smaller file (lower resolution) for normal/typical use. There's plenty of editing that you can do with JPEGs on your computer -- depending on your software -- and there are features in your camera that can help out, as well.  That depends on your camera.  Put them together, and it might meet your needs.  For example, your camera probably has several bracketing features that will take the same shot with different settings with one press of the button.  Then you can select the best JPEG to work with on your computer.  I frequently use this feature to control contrast.
    • If you set up some basic presets in your processing software and use batch processing, you don't need jpeg at all. I shoot RAW only, use (free) Faststone Image Viewer which will view any type of image file to cull my shots, and batch process in Darktable. I can start with 2000-3000 shots and in a matter of a few hours have them culled, processed, and posted. A handful of shots, say a couple hundred from a photo walk, are done in minutes.  This saves card space, computer space, and upload time.  The results are very good for posting online. When someone wants to buy one or I decide to print it, I can then return to the RAW file and process it individually for optimum results.  I never delete a RAW file. Sometimes I'll return to an old shot I processed several years ago and reprocess it. I have been very surprised how much better they look as my processing skills improved.  
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...