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ILCE-6500 System Software (Firmware) Update Ver.1.05 (Windows)
Adds support for the SEL18135 lens
ILCE-6500 System Software (Firmware) Update Ver.1.05 (Windows)

Applicable Models

This information is for the following models:

  • ILCE-6500
About this download
Benefits and improvements from the latest update
  • Adds support for the SEL18135 lens
  • Improves the overall camera stability
Previous Benefits and Improvements

The following benefits and improvements are also included in this update.

  • Improves image stabilisation performance in movie mode
  • Improves the usability of the left-hand side of the touch panel when using the PlayMemories Camera Apps keyboard
  • Resolves the issue of failure to power-on when one of the following settings is used: ([Quality: RAW and JPEG] and [soft Skin Effect: ON] and [Face Detect.: ON])
  • Supports new lens SEL100400GM
  • Optimised image stabilisation performance in movie mode
  • Improves overall stability of the camera
File Info
File Name
  • ILCE-6500 System Software (Firmware) Update Ver.1.05 (Windows)
File Version
  • 1.05
File Size
  • 254 MB (267,381,952 bytes)
Release Date
  • 01/02/2018

Go here to download

 https://www.sony.co.uk/electronics/support/downloads/00015017
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  • Posts

    • I'd suggest you start by running a simple test.  Take pictures of a typical scene/subject and each of the JPEG settings your camera offers.  Then compare them in the output that you normally produce.  You may or may not see a difference.  I normally shoot at the highest JPEG level and save that file -- but make a smaller file (lower resolution) for normal/typical use. There's plenty of editing that you can do with JPEGs on your computer -- depending on your software -- and there are features in your camera that can help out, as well.  That depends on your camera.  Put them together, and it might meet your needs.  For example, your camera probably has several bracketing features that will take the same shot with different settings with one press of the button.  Then you can select the best JPEG to work with on your computer.  I frequently use this feature to control contrast.
    • If you set up some basic presets in your processing software and use batch processing, you don't need jpeg at all. I shoot RAW only, use (free) Faststone Image Viewer which will view any type of image file to cull my shots, and batch process in Darktable. I can start with 2000-3000 shots and in a matter of a few hours have them culled, processed, and posted. A handful of shots, say a couple hundred from a photo walk, are done in minutes.  This saves card space, computer space, and upload time.  The results are very good for posting online. When someone wants to buy one or I decide to print it, I can then return to the RAW file and process it individually for optimum results.  I never delete a RAW file. Sometimes I'll return to an old shot I processed several years ago and reprocess it. I have been very surprised how much better they look as my processing skills improved.  
    • If you're only publishing small-sized photo's or viewing on a phone / computer screen, 12-ish MP should be more than enough for your needs. Since with JPEG, the ability to 'fix' stuff on the computer is very limited anyway, you're not giving up much except the ability to crop/recompose after taking the shot. If you tend to crop often or might print large, shoot fine quality instead as JPEGs don't take up a lot of space anyway. I tend to shoot RAW+JPEG. After a trip/shoot, I download my photos to my computer and quickly scan through my JPEGs to select my keepers. The JPEGs are fine for 90% of my needs but at times there are one or two 'WOW'-shots that I might one day print large. I'll edit the RAW of these photos to my hearts content, generate a JPEG, then delete all RAWs to clear up space.
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