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Everything posted by michelb

  1. The Sony flash units that have their name end with M (no AM) like HVL-F20M, HVL-F32M, F43M or F60M. With the 32M, you will lose the AF illuminator function since it was designed for the mirrorless cameras that use a different system that is built-into the camera body. The Sony made adapter to the older Minolta / Sony shoe is called: ADP-MAA
  2. Now go out during the day and take pictures with ligth to see how things are going to change (improve) All of your pictures were taken at night with very little light so ISO was very high (some noise) and shutter speeds were way too long to avoid motion blur on the part of the photographer.
  3. SEL prefix is E-Mount so there would be no need for LA-EA adapter of any kind Take it from someone who owns over 60 A-Mount lenses from Minolta and Sony + numerous E-mount bodies and lenses + LA-EA1, EA2, EA3, EA4 adapters (right, i have all models right now): Any A-Mount lens that does not mention DT in its designation, is full frame and remains full frame when used with LA-EA3 an LA-EA4 on a full frame E-Mount body Some very rare lenses like the Minolta 3X-1X macro is incompatible with the LA-adapters. Same applies to APO lenses with the APO teleconverters. ALL others will work in full frame with your LA-EA3 and A7Rii but with screw-driven lenses (non-SSM or SAM which is the vast majority of the lenses made by Minolta and Sony) you will only get them to work in Manual focus. To get AF with these you need to use LA-EA4.
  4. If their designation on the lens does not mention "DT" it will be full frame
  5. If you select ILCE7RMII, the lenses that do not indicate full frame are the ones that have DT in their model designation like i mentioned. The Minolta A-Mount lenses were almost all full frame except for the 3 i listed in my previous post. Sony had a better selection of DT lenses since they were developing the line but these also have DT in their model names. So in that page , if you only look for the ones with a small square that says full frame. You will notice almost all Minolta lenses do not mention this ( i don't understand why) but they do and many have a clone in the Sony that are mentioned full frame ( 16 Fisheye, 20mm, 28mm F 2.8, 50mm F 1.4, 300mm F 2.8, 500F8 RF, 50 and 100mm Macro lenses) Sony probably does not want to over-promote the older lenses !!!
  6. Almost all Minolta A-Mount lenses were full frame. The only ones that are APS-C are marked DT and are: - 18-70 DT -18-200 DT - 11-18 DT Same DT marking would apply to Sony lenses that were APS-C but the list would be a little longer There would be a limitation if one used LA-EA1 or LA-EA2 with these FF lenses What chart are you referring to ?
  7. That is what they are designed for in the first place
  8. If you use a 2X tele converter on a lens whose maximum aperture is F 5.6, with a 2X, your max aperture is now only F11. With the kind of limited light coming through the lens, AF is likely to have difficulty finding focus on anything. PDAF needs some light to achieve its phase detection so by having too limited light coming in, the PDAF sensors can not operate properly. This would be even worse as you close down the lens since then, you would limit even more the amount of light coming in and these mirrorless cameras stop down your aperture at your command (not just as you release the shutter) It was the case before with traditional AF SLR's where when using any lens that had a max aperture of F 4.5, AF was unusable since the AF sensors could not operate. And as was the case with SLR's , they all focused at max aperture (stopping down the lens as you released the shutter)
  9. You need Sony compatible triggers and flash ( the C in the model name of your Trigger/flash says they are for Canon) and every camera brand has its own language that is incompatible with one another for proper TTL/HSS/WL operations.
  10. These flashes will only work in HSS when the head is pointed forward as in on camera direct flash. The minute you place the head in bounce mode, HSS is not available anymore.
  11. See quick test pics here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/55173440@N08/albums/72157684437380962/with/36371744820/ You can see the EXIF for each These were taken in bad ligth on A7r
  12. Read the manual on LA-EA adapters: It mentions clearly that the use of A-Mount teleconverters will not work. Some have had some unpredictable success with other brand A-Mount teleconverters (Kenco Tamron for a few) but there is no assurance they will work either.
  13. Show your adapter ( top and bottom) What flash model were you using ?
  14. Apparently the new Macs have issues with USB2 connections. To help, you need to connect USB2 accessories through a USB2 Hub. Iha numerous issues until i tried that and it worked Why don't you just insert the memory card in the computer SD slot ?
  15. The 2 Sigma's mentioned are for APS-C format, so on A7r you will either get the Auto cropping to APS-C with much lower resolution or you will have huge vignetting
  16. 1) No need to put the body in WL mode since you are using manual triggers (unless Alien Bees makes a TTL trigger for Sony that i don't know about). It could actually be a cause for failure since there was no exchange of info between trigger and body and in WL mode, the body will expect an answer from a flash with the proper connectors and if it does not get the answer it is looking for (or no answer as would be the case with manual triggers), there could be no triggering of the flash at all 2) The Sony MIS shoe ( it's official name) is different in that it has contacts at the front of the shoe on your camera body. Sometimes these connectors prevent the flash foot (or trigger foot) from making a connection with the the central contact on the body. Sometimes you need to push as much as you can within reasonable force to ensure the central contact gets proper alignment which is not always easy to establish. Contrary to popular belief, there is no such thing as standard shoe anymore ( Nikon shoe is shorter than Canon and Sony with these front connectors are a pain to use with some standard triggers) and this is often cause of erratic behavior of flash when adapting or using manual flashes from different manufacturers
  17. When french magazine Chasseur d'Images tested this lens a while ago ( just after its introduction) , they noticed this weird behaviour and were supposed to follow-up on it but i never saw an update.
  18. No you need MD to NEX adapter. It should be less expensive since it won't have the aperture closing mechanism on the adapter
  19. On ALL Sony mirrorless cameras there is no more red AF assist lamp that operates like on previous generations DSLR's or film SLR's. These actually emitted a pattern of lines that the AF sensors in the cameras recognized but the newer AF systems with AF measured by the image sensor can not use these patterns The newer Sony HVL-F45RM however uses the video LED light and this can be programmed to be used as AF assist ( probably also the newer HVL-F60RM) but is is so obtrusive (lighting for about 2 seconds at full power) , i put it in the OFF position after 2 shots. i almost forgot it existed.
  20. The Skyport has a standard hot shoe connection. It should work directly on your camera's hot shoe. If it does not, you may have to either push the skyport a little further ahead due to the resistance caused by the numerous connectors in the camera shoe and if this does not work, you may need to shave off a little portion of the plastic on the front portion of the Skyport
  21. Is your flash setting set to WL ? If so, the camera/flash combo is only sending WL commands but is not contributing to the flash exposure
  22. If in bright sunlight, at ISO 50 at F2.8 using the sunny 16 rule would meter at 1/1600sec at F2.8 if my evaluation is correct. if so, you were underexposing by about 2 stops. Sunny 16 rule in bright sunlight: shutter speed at F16 should be 1/ISO 1/50 sec at F16 1/100 sec at F11 1/200 sec at F8 1/400 sec at F5.6 1/800 sec at F4 1/1600 sec at F2.8 Is your exposure correction set to -2 ? (likely if my above calculation is right) and easy to change by accident without noticing on the camera. If not, then your meter was maybe fooled by the bright sky and water on the left causing the underexposure. Meters often get fooled in such bright conditions. Check your EXIF for such correction.We can not see the EXIF on the pic you posted. What you see in the finder is a processed jpg so the pictures there are corrected in camera without your intervention. DRO Auto is probably what is giving you this result in the finder, correcting for the underexposure. DRO should only work on jpg but jpg is what you are seeing in the finder.
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