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michelb last won the day on May 5

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About michelb

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  • Birthday 11/17/1956

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  1. Check this out http://www.botzilla.com/photo/strobeVolts.html Remember Sony bodies are OK u to 5V
  2. Are you certain your Red-Eye reduction is not actib=vated ? It would explain the numerous flash bursts you are describing Are you certain your flash exposure compensation is set at 0EV ? It would explain the overexposure
  3. And please comment back after your tests
  4. The Sony flash units that have their name end with M (no AM) like HVL-F20M, HVL-F32M, F43M or F60M. With the 32M, you will lose the AF illuminator function since it was designed for the mirrorless cameras that use a different system that is built-into the camera body. The Sony made adapter to the older Minolta / Sony shoe is called: ADP-MAA
  5. Now go out during the day and take pictures with ligth to see how things are going to change (improve) All of your pictures were taken at night with very little light so ISO was very high (some noise) and shutter speeds were way too long to avoid motion blur on the part of the photographer.
  6. SEL prefix is E-Mount so there would be no need for LA-EA adapter of any kind Take it from someone who owns over 60 A-Mount lenses from Minolta and Sony + numerous E-mount bodies and lenses + LA-EA1, EA2, EA3, EA4 adapters (right, i have all models right now): Any A-Mount lens that does not mention DT in its designation, is full frame and remains full frame when used with LA-EA3 an LA-EA4 on a full frame E-Mount body Some very rare lenses like the Minolta 3X-1X macro is incompatible with the LA-adapters. Same applies to APO lenses with the APO teleconverters. ALL others will work in full frame with your LA-EA3 and A7Rii but with screw-driven lenses (non-SSM or SAM which is the vast majority of the lenses made by Minolta and Sony) you will only get them to work in Manual focus. To get AF with these you need to use LA-EA4.
  7. If their designation on the lens does not mention "DT" it will be full frame
  8. If you select ILCE7RMII, the lenses that do not indicate full frame are the ones that have DT in their model designation like i mentioned. The Minolta A-Mount lenses were almost all full frame except for the 3 i listed in my previous post. Sony had a better selection of DT lenses since they were developing the line but these also have DT in their model names. So in that page , if you only look for the ones with a small square that says full frame. You will notice almost all Minolta lenses do not mention this ( i don't understand why) but they do and many have a clone in the Sony that are mentioned full frame ( 16 Fisheye, 20mm, 28mm F 2.8, 50mm F 1.4, 300mm F 2.8, 500F8 RF, 50 and 100mm Macro lenses) Sony probably does not want to over-promote the older lenses !!!
  9. Almost all Minolta A-Mount lenses were full frame. The only ones that are APS-C are marked DT and are: - 18-70 DT -18-200 DT - 11-18 DT Same DT marking would apply to Sony lenses that were APS-C but the list would be a little longer There would be a limitation if one used LA-EA1 or LA-EA2 with these FF lenses What chart are you referring to ?
  10. That is what they are designed for in the first place
  11. If you use a 2X tele converter on a lens whose maximum aperture is F 5.6, with a 2X, your max aperture is now only F11. With the kind of limited light coming through the lens, AF is likely to have difficulty finding focus on anything. PDAF needs some light to achieve its phase detection so by having too limited light coming in, the PDAF sensors can not operate properly. This would be even worse as you close down the lens since then, you would limit even more the amount of light coming in and these mirrorless cameras stop down your aperture at your command (not just as you release the shutter) It was the case before with traditional AF SLR's where when using any lens that had a max aperture of F 4.5, AF was unusable since the AF sensors could not operate. And as was the case with SLR's , they all focused at max aperture (stopping down the lens as you released the shutter)
  12. You need Sony compatible triggers and flash ( the C in the model name of your Trigger/flash says they are for Canon) and every camera brand has its own language that is incompatible with one another for proper TTL/HSS/WL operations.
  13. These flashes will only work in HSS when the head is pointed forward as in on camera direct flash. The minute you place the head in bounce mode, HSS is not available anymore.
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