Jump to content

WB5AGF

Members
  • Posts

    8
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

WB5AGF last won the day on August 16 2019

WB5AGF had the most liked content!

WB5AGF's Achievements

  1. (background) - I'd prefer not to start a new topic to pass-along information if an existing topic is suitable. - I try and take care of things and get as much life out of them as possible - some battery chemistries have very specific likes-and-dislikes as regards their minimum-level-of-charge. ------------------------------------- I was unsure to what level-of-charge (for maximum life) it was prudent to allow the Sony NP-FZ100 Battery (used in my Sony α7 III Camera) to get to before recharging so I had a 'chat session' with Sony this morning. I was told to recharge the NP-FZ100 Battery once its level-of-charge reached 5 percent. The Sony person emphasized (twice) to leave the battery on the charger for four hours. - Paul
  2. I have the Sony α7 III and use Canon FD lenses (from the 1970s and 80s) on it. See the picture of the Moon I took with the Canon 500mm 'mirror-lens' - it's posted in : https://www.sonyalphaforum.com/topic/9673-lense-for-astro-photography/ - Paul
  3. Hi - Supposedly there is a 'work-around' that triggers a Sony cameras' hot-pixel mapping routine. You go into the camera's menu and set the date to some future period (a month-or-two). Then cycle the camera's power on-off. When the camera is turned off there is supposed to be a noticably increased delay from when you turn the power off and the 'thunk' is heard inside the camera. Then turn the camera back on and go into the date/time menu and set it back to the present. At this point the camera is supposed to have remapped its sensor's hot-pixels. I'm curious ... what kind of 'filter adapter' do you have on your camera ? - Paul
  4. Thanks but it wasn't difficult. The Sony A7iii Camera has an internal 'zoom' feature (somehow not the same as a 'digital zoom') and it allows for a X2 multiplier (I suppose that gave the equivelent of a 1,000mm focal length lens). What's frustrating is that there's a X10 focusing aid multiplier ... with that on lunar features are really visible .... but there's no way (that I know of) to take a photo with that active. - Paul
  5. Here's a picture of the Moon that I took about an hour ago from my driveway (the Moon is so bright that streetlights don't cause any significant problem). It was taken with my Sony A7iii Camera and the Canon FD-series 500mm/f8 catadioptric mirror lens using a purely mechanical lens adapter. - Paul
  6. Just a suggestion ... you may want to look into using an old SLR lens with an adapter. When looking at the sky focus is not an issue (everything is at infinity) and fiddling-with-exposure is half-the-fun (and most of the older SLR lenses are relatively inexpensive). Here, attached, is a picture I took a few days ago from my driveway about 10:30 at night. Camera - Sony A7iii 'mirrorless' digital Lens - Canon 55mm f/1.2 Exposure Time - 1/60th sec Aperture - f/1.2 'ISO' - 12,800 I used 'IrfanView' and tweaked the gamma to suppress big-city sky brightness and pull-up the stars. (In the future I hope to be able to do some 'dark frame' noise subtraction but haven't learned what software to use yet.) Best Regards; - Paul
  7. Luca - Is there a particular reason that you don't want to use a lens adapter ? The mirrorless camera has such a shorter lens-flange to sensor distance than was true with 35mm SLR cameras such that lenses made for 35mm SLRs allow the use of a purely mechanical lens adapter on a mirrorless camera without any intervening lens. I'm using my Sony A7iii with old Canon 'FD' lenses that I used long ago when first getting into 35mm film photography - they work very well. Best Regards; - Paul
  8. I recently purchased a Sony A7iii Camera and am having difficulty understanding what the appropriate software package would be to do simply photo editing. (I'm an amateur photographer with experience going back to the days of the Canon Ftb 35mm camera. My photography has tended to be of the 'on-again/off-again' style. My digital camera experience began with the Canon D30, then a 5D and finally, about 2 1/2 years ago, I bought a Canon 6D but haven't used it much. What got me interested in mirrorless cameras was the possiblity of using my old Canon 'FD' lenses again ... I like the way they look-and-feel and their heft ... I'm not a fan of 'plastic lenses'. Manually focusing and setting exposure doesn't bother me.) Some of the first pictures I took with my A7iii were out on my driveway about 10:30 at night looking up at the stars (what can be seen through big city sky-brightness). What software will let me take a night time picture of the sky and then follow up with a 'dark frame' ... then use software to subtract the dark frame from the sky photo to reduce camera generated noise ? I don't intend to spend hundreds-of-Dollars on professional software and am hoping that there's something inexpensive that will do what I want. (I've downloaded-and-installed 'ImageJ' software but have not learned how to use it yet.) Suggestions ? - Paul
×
×
  • Create New...