Jump to content

Recommended Posts

I have been very satified with the functions of the Nissin Di700A and AIR commander. I wrote about it in October here on SAR: http://www.sonyalpharumors.com/guest-post-by-dierk-topp-the-new-nissin-di700a-air-1-wireless-ttl-flash-for-sony/

 

I use it with different setups like umbrellas and diffusers. Yesterday I noticed, that the flash was hanging down from the tripod, only fixed by the cable of the PS8 power pack. The diffuser has been mounted for a while as you see on the first image. The wheight of it is about 160 gr. very light!

 

Is the Di700A only for amateur use??

 

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Guest Peter Kelly

That is worrying although, from my perspective, not at all surprising.

 

I have said from the start that I was never worried about the contacts of the new Sony foot/shoe (although most criticised them), but rather the strange 'lugged' design. Instead of them being solid 'runners', it always looked like a weak spot.

That said, the Sony HVL-F60M has a different problem in that the foot cracks around the base, leaving it usable but wobbly and slightly loose. I had to replace 3 feet while I owned them (and noticed the design of that part was changed!).

 

Unfortunately, I think it inevitable that having a large, heavy gun (not so much the weight, but rather the length of the leverage) will lead to a lot of strain at that point and if the foot is made to withstand severe pressure then that would be transferred to other parts; the worst case scenario being the hotshoe of the camera. I suspect the designers do consider that and think photographers will prefer swapping the foot (that's why those four screws are so obvious) than having an expensive camera repair if the shoe was ripped off.

 

I do know some colleagues, from the 'paparazzi' side of things, that prefer to use a bracket for their flash, or stick with the old 'hammerhead' design, to lessen the risk (as well as helping with mounting external batteries, etc.).

 

The bottom line is that when using physically big flashguns you need to be aware of the potential risk.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have three of these flashes and two have broken the foot. I only use the Di700A off camera and now only use a mount that holds the flash body not the foot. I agree with Peter, the leverage is the issue. On a bright note as I stated elsewhere in this forum Nissin (Minox USA) replaced the broken feet free of charge.

Link to post
Share on other sites

examples of hot shoes:

the left one is a professional flash SB800 from Nikon, on the right is the broken plastic Nissin Di799A

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Guest Peter Kelly

Certainly the Nikon foot is more like I would envisage, but the design still goes to possible issues when accidents happen.

 

I suspect most people would prefer a solid foot and for the shoe to be fully attached to the chassis, meaning that all but the most severe knocks could be shrugged off. Of course, in the case of such an accident you might suffer damage that would write off the whole camera (I've seen a Canon with the whole top plate ripped off).

 

With that in mind, in hindsight, perhaps people would have preferred to just replace a simple foot, in about 10 minutes.

 

The problem comes if the design gets the balance between these positions wrong and you find that you are replacing the foot every other time you use the camera. That becomes very tedious and annoying!

 

From these examples and my experience with the HVL-F60M I tend to believe Sony have erred too far on the side of weakness. I'd love to hear the designer's thoughts on it though.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 10 months later...

I have the same problem with the broken shoe.  I mistakenly used a clamp type flash holder while off camera flash remotely and the flash unit just barely leaned over and the plastic broke.  I have removed the shoe by removing the four screws and unplugged from junction system bottom of flash.  I am currently trying to find the replacement part by contacting Nissin: Air 1 Commander & Di700 A 

·  U.S.A.
New England Imaging Distribution, LLC
TEL:603-504-6317 / FAX:603-287-4834
741 Main Street, Claremont, NH 03743
info@NEIDLLC.com  I am hoping to find the part..     

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Posts

    • Hola, parece que estan agotados, saludos Felipe 
    • I'd suggest you start by running a simple test.  Take pictures of a typical scene/subject and each of the JPEG settings your camera offers.  Then compare them in the output that you normally produce.  You may or may not see a difference.  I normally shoot at the highest JPEG level and save that file -- but make a smaller file (lower resolution) for normal/typical use. There's plenty of editing that you can do with JPEGs on your computer -- depending on your software -- and there are features in your camera that can help out, as well.  That depends on your camera.  Put them together, and it might meet your needs.  For example, your camera probably has several bracketing features that will take the same shot with different settings with one press of the button.  Then you can select the best JPEG to work with on your computer.  I frequently use this feature to control contrast.
    • If you set up some basic presets in your processing software and use batch processing, you don't need jpeg at all. I shoot RAW only, use (free) Faststone Image Viewer which will view any type of image file to cull my shots, and batch process in Darktable. I can start with 2000-3000 shots and in a matter of a few hours have them culled, processed, and posted. A handful of shots, say a couple hundred from a photo walk, are done in minutes.  This saves card space, computer space, and upload time.  The results are very good for posting online. When someone wants to buy one or I decide to print it, I can then return to the RAW file and process it individually for optimum results.  I never delete a RAW file. Sometimes I'll return to an old shot I processed several years ago and reprocess it. I have been very surprised how much better they look as my processing skills improved.  
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...