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Hey guys first post so thank you in advance!!  Shooting a wedding in a couple weeks and looking to bounce back and forth between 24p + 60p/120p for film and slow mo shots.  Looking for best practices to setup custom buttons to be able to quickly switch between full film setups and slow motion setup using the C Buttons.  I'm noticing that assigning frame rates in the C Buttons isn't exactly available.  Can you help?!  

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  • 2 weeks later...

Technically, it's the 1 / 2 / 3 settings. I mention that because there are M1 / M2 / M3 settings, but they are recorded on the memory card, so they go away when you switch cards (or when you format the card). The 1 / 2 / 3 settings on the dial are recorded inside the camera, so they stay.

That said, I agree with Snofru - that's the cleanest way to achieve this. Set up what you want on the camera, exactly, then record the setting into position 1. Repeat to set up 2, and then 3. Them switching between them is as fast as switching between A mode and S mode. Better, because the 1 / 2 / 3 modes can reset things that don't get reset when switching between A and S! And you still have the option to change things - was to switch the shutter speed briefly? Do so, then restore it by switching to another mode and then back - each time you switch into one of the numbered modes, it's like you spent minutes changing all the settings required.

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    • Hola, parece que estan agotados, saludos Felipe 
    • I'd suggest you start by running a simple test.  Take pictures of a typical scene/subject and each of the JPEG settings your camera offers.  Then compare them in the output that you normally produce.  You may or may not see a difference.  I normally shoot at the highest JPEG level and save that file -- but make a smaller file (lower resolution) for normal/typical use. There's plenty of editing that you can do with JPEGs on your computer -- depending on your software -- and there are features in your camera that can help out, as well.  That depends on your camera.  Put them together, and it might meet your needs.  For example, your camera probably has several bracketing features that will take the same shot with different settings with one press of the button.  Then you can select the best JPEG to work with on your computer.  I frequently use this feature to control contrast.
    • If you set up some basic presets in your processing software and use batch processing, you don't need jpeg at all. I shoot RAW only, use (free) Faststone Image Viewer which will view any type of image file to cull my shots, and batch process in Darktable. I can start with 2000-3000 shots and in a matter of a few hours have them culled, processed, and posted. A handful of shots, say a couple hundred from a photo walk, are done in minutes.  This saves card space, computer space, and upload time.  The results are very good for posting online. When someone wants to buy one or I decide to print it, I can then return to the RAW file and process it individually for optimum results.  I never delete a RAW file. Sometimes I'll return to an old shot I processed several years ago and reprocess it. I have been very surprised how much better they look as my processing skills improved.  
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