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Lightest full frame lens for A7 mark II

spectaculator
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spectaculator Newbie

spectaculator

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After a long run with DSLRs, hard rock guitar playing and 100+ mile long ride with my bicycle, I have problems with my wrists on both hands. Heavy things are not for me to fool around for long walks. What is the lightest full frame lens that I can get for my A7 II? Are there many options with and without adapters?

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Pieter Mentor

Pieter

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The Samyang 35mm f/2.8 is about as small and light as it gets if you want AF. Lens weighs about 80 grams. Don't own the lens but reportedly image quality is pretty decent considering the weight and cost of the lens. Arguably on par with the 35 f/2.8 Sony/Zeiss.

Edited by Pieter
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spectaculator Newbie

spectaculator

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25 minutes ago, Pieter said:

The Samyang 35mm f/2.8 is about as small and light as it gets if you want AF. Lens weighs about 80 grams. Don't own the lens but reportedly image quality is pretty decent considering the weight and cost of the lens. Arguably on par with the 35 f/2.8 Sony/Zeiss.

It looks tinny and well priced. I will certainly go for one. That will make it and unbeatable mirrorless bundle. Quite lightweight and very capable nevertheless.

Thank you!

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tizeye Contributor

tizeye

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One of the first lens I bought was the Sony FE 35 f2.8. Nice, compact and the reverse lens hood. I still own it and use occasionally if doing "prime only". I find my favorite walkaround is the 16-35 f4, coupled with the 55 Sony/Zeiss (the second lens I purchased) in my pocket/light lens (no camera space) bag.

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Commanderbrot Rookie

Commanderbrot

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On 8/21/2020 at 10:55 AM, Pieter said:

The Samyang 35mm f/2.8 is about as small and light as it gets if you want AF.

Secound that!

I used to have one and it was practically glued onto my A7 Mark I. I regret selling it, but when I went the APS-C route it didn't make sense to me any more.

As I'm back at FF, I bought the Samyang 24mm which is in the same ballpark and makes for a very nice landscape and city-combo. 

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    • felipe
      Sony 16 mm f/1.8 G: Vea las primeras fotos tomadas

      By felipe · Posted

      Hola, parece que estan agotados, saludos Felipe 
    • XKAES
      JPEG options?

      By XKAES · Posted

      I'd suggest you start by running a simple test.  Take pictures of a typical scene/subject and each of the JPEG settings your camera offers.  Then compare them in the output that you normally produce.  You may or may not see a difference.  I normally shoot at the highest JPEG level and save that file -- but make a smaller file (lower resolution) for normal/typical use. There's plenty of editing that you can do with JPEGs on your computer -- depending on your software -- and there are features in your camera that can help out, as well.  That depends on your camera.  Put them together, and it might meet your needs.  For example, your camera probably has several bracketing features that will take the same shot with different settings with one press of the button.  Then you can select the best JPEG to work with on your computer.  I frequently use this feature to control contrast.
    • Cameratose
      JPEG options?

      By Cameratose · Posted

      If you set up some basic presets in your processing software and use batch processing, you don't need jpeg at all. I shoot RAW only, use (free) Faststone Image Viewer which will view any type of image file to cull my shots, and batch process in Darktable. I can start with 2000-3000 shots and in a matter of a few hours have them culled, processed, and posted. A handful of shots, say a couple hundred from a photo walk, are done in minutes.  This saves card space, computer space, and upload time.  The results are very good for posting online. When someone wants to buy one or I decide to print it, I can then return to the RAW file and process it individually for optimum results.  I never delete a RAW file. Sometimes I'll return to an old shot I processed several years ago and reprocess it. I have been very surprised how much better they look as my processing skills improved.  

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