Jump to content

Using Nikon AIS lenses with the A6000


sdnet01
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hello all,

 

I recently purchased the Sony A6000.  So far, very nice camera, loving everything about it except for the relatively mediocre battery life. 

 

I am a little confused about the operation of the camera with legacy lenses, but I'd like to learn more.  

 

What I would like to do is be able to use one of Nikon's older AIS lenses, like the 55mm f/2.8 AIS Macro:

http://www.amazon.com/Nikon-55mm-Micro-Nikkor-Lens/dp/B0000BVDZZ

 

I understand that I will need an adaptor and that not all adaptors will electronically communicate.  

 

So, if I get the Metabones F-Mount Nikon adaptor, for example, will I be able to meter in aperture-priority mode, or will this be full manual?  Will the camera at least be able to meter?  Lastly, will I be adjusting the aperture via the on-lens aperture ring and the shutter speed via the camera itself?

 

This adaptor: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/983738-REG/metabones_mb_nf_e_bm2_nikon_f_to_e_mount_nex.html/prm/alsVwDtl

 

Or even the Vello, which is cheaper: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/839149-REG/vello_la_nex_nf_lens_mount_adapter.html/prm/alsVwDtl

 

Thanks guys. 

 

- Steve

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Everything you can do with a pin hole you

can do with a non-coupled adapted lens.

The advantages of such a lens over a pin

hole are that it's much sharper, and that

the size of the "pin hole" is adjustable.

  

The disadvantage of a lens over a pinhole

is that with a lens, you gotta focus it [duh] !

  

You can easily experiment with the way

your camera will behave with an adapted

non-coupled lens. Make a pin hole and

tape it over the body flange. Since you

don't need really sharp images for such

an experiment, use a really BIG pin hole,

like not pin-size but 10-penny-nail sized

or even pencil sized. The bigger hole will

provide a brighter image, more nearly

like an actual lens. Don't worry that all

your subjects look "ghostly".

  

Not joking. You imagery will be vague

but somewhat recognizable and you can

mess around with the controls to watch

what happens. You'll discover how the

difference between viewing modes will

affect things, and you can watch the "A"  

mode at work [it works normally]. With

no special cleverness at all you could

even make the pencil-hole adjustable

in size to get a better experience of the

"A" mode. You can play with the meter

in any mode. You can even use the "S"  

mode. It's not automatic exposure but it

has a somewhat different behavior than

the "M" mode.

  

Feel free to incorporate some clear

plastic or such in the "pin-hole" just to

seal the body chamber against dust.

When the camera is on, the sensor has

a mild static charge that can attract any

dust that wanders in.

 

After experimenting, if you're satisfied

with what controls and features you'll be

enjoying, adapt a lens and enjoy those

sharper brighter images !

  

  

PS: Your pin hole FL is about 1 inch, so

a 1/8" hole is about f/8, 1/4" is f/4, etc.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Golem, understood on the pin hole concept. 

 

I was talking about the specific capabilities of these adaptors, though.  For example, I've heard that with some adaptors, you're always stuck at essentially the widest point of the lens.  

 

Here's a source that discusses this: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/explora/photography/hands-reviews/overview-lens-adapters

 

Of course, I want more exposure control over my photography, so I want to make sure that I understand what I'm getting. 

 

Thanks. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

The adapters work fine, you can either adjust aperture on the adapter or on the lens itself with nik ais glass but not in camera only shutter speed, im using 28 3.5 & 50 1.8 ai and both are great sharp bright good colour i shoot full manual but can shoot shutter priority not aperture priority or auto [hang on, or is it the other way around lol?] cos aperture can only be adjusted on the lens of course.

 

I like the nikon glass so much im buying an 85 1.4 tomorrow for 400$ for portrait, i use metabones adapter costs more but better made engineered and tolerances are tighter the cheap ebays one was ok but not quite as sharp, if you want to see results look at my gallery some shots are with 28 3.5.

 

The old nikon glass is some of the best in my op. I even used a nik 70-210 m/f macro zoom for a while, thats the pidgeon shot in my gallery, the rendering is superb.

 

p.s. You dont get all the exif data with these lenses nor any electronic contact, but doesnt matter to me.

And zoom/close focus window with peaking too works brilliantly.

 

edit, sorry i should add, the camera meters in body through the lens[so i believe],  so it will work fine 

Link to post
Share on other sites

The adapters work fine, you can either adjust aperture on the adapter or on the lens itself with nik ais glass but not in camera only shutter speed, im using 28 3.5 & 50 1.8 ai and both are great sharp bright good colour i shoot full manual but can shoot shutter priority not aperture priority [hang on, or is it the other way around lol?] cos aperture can only be adjusted on the lens of course.

 

Thanks, appreciate the feedback.  What I ended up doing was buying the 55mm macro AIS lens along with the Fotga Nikon F-Mount "hollow" adaptor.  This is basically just a mount junction between the lens and the camera, no glass, no nothing.  

 

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009GFXIAE

 

Since it was so cheap, I'm going to test this out and, if need-be, look for other options in the future.  But for manual focus AIS lenses where I'd need to manually meter anyway, I can't imagine that I would need anything more than this. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

You will be fine, there a great fit for the sonys, nice and fairly compact, beautiful focus mechanism, beautiful glass.

 

That adapter will do the job no probs. I used a 16$ ebay one and it worked fine.

 

Manual shooting is just the best. Theres a distinct pleasure nailing a shot that way i say.

 

That 55 is a great lens too.

 

Sorry i over explained a bit in first post lol. Im not sure with a6000 but may be able to do auto iso+ auto shutter too with the nik glass, can on my a7m2?

 

Cos your using apsc, it will be longer mm and sharper too using only centre part of lens.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Steve,

 

I have a non-AI 55mm f/3.5 Nikkor Macro lens that I use with a Fotasy adapter.  The adapter is similar to the one you got from Fotga.  All it does is spaces the lens out from the sensor to the correct distance.  

 

Once you enable "shutter release without lens" in the menu --you are good to go.  This allows the camera to capture an image with no lens attached (which is what it thinks it is doing since it only is a dummy adapter).  

 

The adapters that have aperture control are for the AF lenses that do not have an aperture ring on the lens (like canon EF lenses) and are expecting aperture control via the camera body.  If you would use a dummy adapter with one of these lenses you would be forced to shoot wide open.  

 

As mentioned metering is TTL.  You control aperture and focus, obviously, via the lens.

 

I shoot my adapted lenses often in Aperture priority.  The camera then sets shutter speed. In this mode, ISO can either be set manually or automatically via Auto-ISO.   In more controlled shooting environments I shoot in Manual...but Auto-ISO is not available in this mode.

 

Cheers and HTH,

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

  • Posts

    • I'm beginning to think that I have a misconception about the a7R. The one I was wanting had the shutter release button on the hand grip with a resolution of 36mp. It appears the button moved to the handgrip on the a7R II model, which had 42mp resolution.  Sorry for any confusion, I'm in the learning stage yet.  😕 I may need to go with the basic a7 II at 24mp. The 36mp (R) model had the shutter release on the camera body (which I didn't care for).
    • I'd really like to find a package deal for an a7R (mk I, second generation) which includes the neckstrap and box. I've searched Ebay and currently no one is listing what I'm looking for. They either have the camera only or a first generation a7R and a lot of them don't offer the Sony neckstrap or box it came in. I know your site doesn't have a formal 'Equipment For Sale' thread and granted Ebay is a better place to sell gear but I thought I'd see if any of the members have one and would like to upgrade to a newer model but don't think anyone would be looking for one that old. The cameras I've been using are in the 20 megapixel range and rather than jumping to a 40mp camera due to file size, the 36mp that the first a7R has was appealing to me and wouldn't break the bank. I've been using Canon and Nikon but really want experience a Sony. If a post like this is undesirable for this website, I understand but I thought I would ask. Thank you. 
    • Here's a good thread on the issue.... https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/4571046 And here is the info on the A7RIVA that maybe explains why I don't see the issue...  The change in wording that caught my attention is that the new A7RIVA brochure says the structure has been "re-examined and redesigned." Don't know, but given the text of other parts of the brochures are copied word for word, the change in text here seems significant. My reading of this is that it is a redesign of the A7RIV. In that case, perhaps the 200-600 issues are less severe with the new body.
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...