Jump to content

Critique on my sel 35 photos / and some other questions.


worldpixel
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hello guys, I hope this is the right section to post some things I want to ask.

 

1.)

 

http://www.sonyalphaforum.com/gallery/album/95-sel-35-a6000-worldpixel/

 

I uploaded an album for the overlooking area ( mentioned ) in one of my previous topics. My goal here is not to take real estate photos ( those were posted in the official fb page ), but to take good landscape and portrait shots.

 

1. What do you think of the sharpness of the landscape images ? Even at f1.8 ( the little kid ) ?

 

2. Do you think some of my photos are over saturated ? Or too much contrast? Or a lot of kelvin/tint ? This question mostly concerns the post production of my photos, I think I tend to overdo it sometimes , not sure though. You think an exaggerated look is better than a straight from camera raw conversion?

 

3. How can I make the night shot of the city "sharper" . Tried using a tripod, set long shutter speeds and around f/4 to f/8,  but this is the sharpest one I got.

 

4. I follow the rule of thirds mostly, but is there any advice you can give in terms of the composition of my images ?

 

 

2. ) This question is more for professional photographers who take pictures for a living. Do you think its viable to setup like a studio environment (" because I want a more controlled area " ) and make money out of it? I don't like to do events , weddings or commercial photography. But more into landscape or still life. If you take pictures and sell them to a stock photography site, will it work ?

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

For the night city shot: switch to manual focus if you didn't already. Use the 3 second countdown timer when on the tripod. Try f7.1 - the light starbursts suggest a rather high F stop; they're also blueish so set a warmer white balance starting around 3100 Kelvin. Finally check quality is set to Fine if shooting jpg (it and some of the other images look over compressed, but that's probably the upload rather than in the original).

 

From what you said (all good techniques) you should have been rewarded with a better shot. Maybe it was simply a misty night given that the distant lights are affected more than closer ones of equal brightness.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Photo 4 seems to have on the top left of the picture some interference from the sun?

 

The entire image would have a nicer contrast if that was not in the picture. A lens hood or hand, can help with that. Unless, of course, that is the intended effect :)

 

As LeButler said above, use the timer to take night photos, or a remote, as any tripod vibration can result in a not sharp photo.  I also find it useful when shooting at night to use focus bracketing. Which is just manual focus, then take another photo or several photos at a different focus point. Just in case the photo I thought was in focus is not.

Link to post
Share on other sites

These photos have challenging lighting for the camera so some post processing would be needed at least to get White Balance right. I find them too brown/yellow/warm, or a better way to put it would be there is not enough of the other colours.

 

Photo 2 - in the  middle of the frame is a street light, is this the subject? IMO the sun being in shot is distracting from the wonderful silhouette of the tree against the warmly lit landscape behind it. Framed with the Tree as the _only_ subject against the warm background would be more engaging. If you could get the light from the sun interacting with the tree that might also be interesting to look at.

Link to post
Share on other sites

For the night city shot: switch to manual focus if you didn't already. Use the 3 second countdown timer when on the tripod. Try f7.1 - the light starbursts suggest a rather high F stop; they're also blueish so set a warmer white balance starting around 3100 Kelvin. Finally check quality is set to Fine if shooting jpg (it and some of the other images look over compressed, but that's probably the upload rather than in the original).

 

From what you said (all good techniques) you should have been rewarded with a better shot. Maybe it was simply a misty night given that the distant lights are affected more than closer ones of equal brightness.

 

Yeah if you see some of the day pictures, you can see smoke in some areas ( usually around 4 - 6pm). I used manual mode in most of the shots except the portraits. With the blueish tone I think it's because of my post processing changes in capture one, I will try what you suggested though. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

In the 4th photo , I was trying to manual focus on the towers near the sun. Not sure if this is the best area to focus or not though.

 

Will try the focus bracketing in the next session.

 

I have a lenshood, tripod and a sony remote. I also turned steadyshot off.

Photo 4 seems to have on the top left of the picture some interference from the sun?

 

The entire image would have a nicer contrast if that was not in the picture. A lens hood or hand, can help with that. Unless, of course, that is the intended effect :)

 

As LeButler said above, use the timer to take night photos, or a remote, as any tripod vibration can result in a not sharp photo.  I also find it useful when shooting at night to use focus bracketing. Which is just manual focus, then take another photo or several photos at a different focus point. Just in case the photo I thought was in focus is not.

Link to post
Share on other sites

These photos have challenging lighting for the camera so some post processing would be needed at least to get White Balance right. I find them too brown/yellow/warm, or a better way to put it would be there is not enough of the other colours.

 

Photo 2 - in the  middle of the frame is a street light, is this the subject? IMO the sun being in shot is distracting from the wonderful silhouette of the tree against the warmly lit landscape behind it. Framed with the Tree as the _only_ subject against the warm background would be more engaging. If you could get the light from the sun interacting with the tree that might also be interesting to look at.

 

I was trying to focus on the distant towers not the light post. I will try to take a picture of the tree next time but it would require me to go down the area since it's very steep. I think the white balance was ok when it was first imported to Capture One, I tend to overdo things with color. Not sure if this is good or bad.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

  • Posts

    • I just found your post as I was searching for an answer to the same question.  I realized that I can not set the external flash setup in my Sony A7CII when I attach any of my Godox and Insignia flashes.  They seem to work fine, other than the auto zoom being stuck at the widest focal length, but flash settings are greyed out in the menu. Did you ever figure out an answer for this?
    • So long story short, I'm at a crossroads and need to unload some gear. My main cam is a A7R3. I also lucked into a Fuji GFX100s a few years ago. Because of some upcoming things, I really need to sell some stuff. I could sell the old Pentax kit, but can't bring myself to. On the other end, I don't want to get rid of the Fuji either. What I'm thinking is sell both the Fuji kit and my A7R3, get an A7R5 and call it a day. I get a camera that really bridges most of the gaps between my current Sony & the Fuji's capabilities. Yeah I loose some stuff from the Fuji, but I'd also be slimming down to one lens ecosystem.  I'd keep the Pentax as there are things I specifically use it for. I can't bring myself to pull the trigger and go the R5 route & life with out the 102mp medium format. Thoughts or other options? My photography: mostly night photography, b&w and minitatures (yeah, Star Wars type stuff.) And landscapes, something bothe the Pentax & Fuji do really well with. If I got rid of the Fuji and upgrade fropm the R3, I pocket lots of needed cash and still have something that checks alot  of the boxes the Fuji does.
    • Are you using a genuine Sony, fully charged battery?  Do you have an A/C adapter?  Do you have a user manual -- these tell you have to deal with these types of problem -- like a complete reset.
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...