Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Hello everyone,

I am experiencing an issue with my new Samyang AF 35mm F1.4 FE lens on my Sony a7R camera, and I am hoping someone here might have encountered something similar or could offer some advice.

Whenever I take long exposure photos with this lens, I notice dark shadows and shapes appearing in the images. This happens even when I am not using the lens hood. The issue is not present or noticeable during shorter exposure shots, but it becomes quite apparent with longer exposures.

Here are the steps I have taken to troubleshoot the problem:

  • I have tried shooting with and without the lens hood, but the issue persists.
  • I have ensured that the lens is securely attached to the camera.
  • I have checked the camera sensor for dust or damage, and everything appears to be fine.
  • The problem only seems to occur during long exposure shots.

Since the lens is brand new and this is the first time I have used it, I am concerned that there might be a defect. Has anyone else experienced this issue with this lens or any other lens? Any insights or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you for your help!

Best regards,

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Link to post
Share on other sites

You don't provide any information about the camera settings. Is this indoors? Outdoors? Either one? Is it under fluorescent lighting? LED lighting? Any lighting? Have you tried the anti-flicker setting?  

I've shot the Samyang 35/1.4 on an A7R III, A7 IV, and A1, and haven't seen this. My longest exposure so far was probably about 1/4 second, not sure what you're referring to as long exposure though.

What you're seeing is not related to the hood or vignetting. If it's not showing up using normal exposure settings, it is unlikely to be a lens issue. Do you know anyone with a Sony you can run tests with? What about other lenses at the same exposure settings? 

The best way to determine what's happening is through the process of elimination, but always try only one change at a time. If you change more than one and you fix it, you won't know which one did the trick.

Link to post
Share on other sites

18 hours ago, Cameratose said:

You don't provide any information about the camera settings. Is this indoors? Outdoors? Either one? Is it under fluorescent lighting? LED lighting? Any lighting? Have you tried the anti-flicker setting?  

I've shot the Samyang 35/1.4 on an A7R III, A7 IV, and A1, and haven't seen this. My longest exposure so far was probably about 1/4 second, not sure what you're referring to as long exposure though.

What you're seeing is not related to the hood or vignetting. If it's not showing up using normal exposure settings, it is unlikely to be a lens issue. Do you know anyone with a Sony you can run tests with? What about other lenses at the same exposure settings? 

The best way to determine what's happening is through the process of elimination, but always try only one change at a time. If you change more than one and you fix it, you won't know which one did the trick.

Thank you for your quick response and detailed questions.

To provide more context:

  • The issue occurs both indoors and outdoors, under various lighting conditions including natural light, fluorescent light, infrared light, and even in darkness.
  • I have not tried the anti-flicker setting yet, but I will give that a try to see if it helps with the issue.
  • When I refer to long exposure, I mean exposures longer than 1 second. The specific shots where I noticed this issue had an exposure time of 3 seconds in darkness.
  • Unfortunately, I do not have access to another Sony camera, and this is the only lens I have for this mount. Both the camera and the lens are brand new.
  • Additionally, I have noticed that when I change the focus, whether manually or automatically, the "shadow" or "glare" also changes. This seems to be tied to the focus adjustments.

I appreciate your suggestion on the process of elimination and will take that approach to see if I can isolate the cause. I will start by testing the anti-flicker setting.

Thank you again for your help. I will update you with any findings after these tests.

Link to post
Share on other sites

29 minutes ago, Cameratose said:

This sounds a lot like the lens. The anti-flicker is a long shot anyway, and after hearing your explanation probably won't help. I would get ahold of the seller and start a return process. 

Thank you very much for your advice. I wasn't sure if this was a common issue or a configuration problem, especially since this is my first Sony and Full Frame camera. I appreciate your input, and I will go ahead and contact the seller to start the return process.

Thanks again for your help!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Posts

    • Hola, parece que estan agotados, saludos Felipe 
    • I'd suggest you start by running a simple test.  Take pictures of a typical scene/subject and each of the JPEG settings your camera offers.  Then compare them in the output that you normally produce.  You may or may not see a difference.  I normally shoot at the highest JPEG level and save that file -- but make a smaller file (lower resolution) for normal/typical use. There's plenty of editing that you can do with JPEGs on your computer -- depending on your software -- and there are features in your camera that can help out, as well.  That depends on your camera.  Put them together, and it might meet your needs.  For example, your camera probably has several bracketing features that will take the same shot with different settings with one press of the button.  Then you can select the best JPEG to work with on your computer.  I frequently use this feature to control contrast.
    • If you set up some basic presets in your processing software and use batch processing, you don't need jpeg at all. I shoot RAW only, use (free) Faststone Image Viewer which will view any type of image file to cull my shots, and batch process in Darktable. I can start with 2000-3000 shots and in a matter of a few hours have them culled, processed, and posted. A handful of shots, say a couple hundred from a photo walk, are done in minutes.  This saves card space, computer space, and upload time.  The results are very good for posting online. When someone wants to buy one or I decide to print it, I can then return to the RAW file and process it individually for optimum results.  I never delete a RAW file. Sometimes I'll return to an old shot I processed several years ago and reprocess it. I have been very surprised how much better they look as my processing skills improved.  
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...