Advice with problem using Nissin flash on Sony A7RII

[Revolution Snowdrops]

I'm having major problems using Nssin i60A flash units on my Sony A7RII camera (actually I have two A7RII bodies and the problems are identical on both). 

 

I can't find anything online to suggest a general issue with this combination, so I must be doing something stupid in settings.

 

Basically the problem is that, whenever I mount either a flash or the Nissin A1 Air Commander on the camera hotshoe, the view on the LCD or in the viewfinder immediately super bright, even though the ambient light is very low. It's as though the camera is auto setting the ISO to a very high value, even though I've manually set it to ISO 100. Furthermore, although I can adjust aperture and shutter speed settings, the shutter speed is limited to 1/250 of a second - it won't go any higher. 

 

At first I thought the problem was because I was using a legacy Minolta lens on an adapter, but I've found that the problem is the same with any combination of camera body and lens (most of my lenses are native Sony lenses).

 

I've tried every flash setting in the menu - same problem.

 

Any help would be much appreciated!

[adwb]

I think the view finder is set to show the exposure anticipated if the flash is used. If you don't like that, which I find quite handy to see where the drop of us , then in menu 2 disable the compensated view .

 

No idea about the shutter speed issues but that is the theoretical sync speed for the shutter, I say theoretical because I think 1/200 is less likely to show a band , I suggest your flash or air commander is not set for HSS which would allow for higher shutter speeds

[Username]

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Legacy Minolta lenses ... AF or MF ?  The adapters for AF have

the full conveniences. Adapters for MC/MD lenses are "dumb" 

adapters. Either way, you need to take control of your live view 

settings, which will either maintain a constant viewing brightness 

or else it will brighten and dim according to anticipated under- or

overexposure. 

   

I would go for constant brightness, cuz your shutter speed will be 

governed by the flash ... unless you stick to M-mode on the body,

which is the only sane way to go. You can use auto-flash even if 

the body is in M-mode. Considering that the aperture you use for  

flash will often represent underexposure of the ambient light, you

don't want the viewing brightness to represent result of exposure,

cuz it will drive you battschidt.  

   

Menus vary from camera to camera so no comment on the exact 

pathway to the solution. I don't use your exact model. And again, 

there's the difference between MInolta AF and MF lens adapters,

which ATM is an unknown.  

   

   

 

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[Guest Jaf-Photo]

Is it a problem? Think about it.

 

The reason the screen does not show ambient light is that the flash will add light to the scene. It would have been a problem if the screen had only shown ambient brighness because you wouldn't have been able to see properly in dark scenes where you use flash to bring more light.

 

Second, 1/250 is indeed the maximum sync speed, unless you are using HSS. This is a good sync speed, old cameras used to do 1/60. But it doesn't really matter because the flash is much shorter. So you can use the flash rather than the shutter to freeze movement. Just use ISO and aperture in manual to remove ambient light (this is where the bright sceen is extra useful).

 

So these features are not problems, they are trying to teach you how a camera and flash works.

[Username]

......... Just use ISO and aperture in manual to remove ambient

light (this is where the bright sceen is extra useful).

.........

  

Just wanna add here that "remove ambient light" need 

not mean "TOTALLY remove". There are image control

benefits in PARTIALLY removing ambient light ... so a 

background isn't nearly black and thus provides some 

sense of place, a bit of ambience. It's basically shutter 

speed that governs how much ambient light mixes into 

your exposure. Usually, you hafta work at a reasonably 

open aperture [typical not past 4 or 5.6] if you're trying 

to mix in some ambient light. Technically, you could do 

it at smallish stops like 8 or 11 but the shutter speed for 

those stops will usually be verrrry slow, so as to gather

enuf ambient light despite such small stops. You can do 

this to great effect, but a live subject must hold still and 

the camera ought to be on a tripod. 

   

There is a "Scene" Mode on some Sonys called "Night 

Portrait" which automates the above but it's worthwhile 

learning to do it yourself.