Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I know this is a very noob question, but......

 

What do you guys do to remove a color cast from a photo?

 

The situation here is:  Nighttime, theres a bright orange light that is lighting up the whole street.  When you take a picture of the city, the image comes out orange. How do you remove that orange light?

 

What I did was I took a custom white balance card against that orange light and it came out all weird. I'm not sure if I'm doing it right. Its the first time I've tried using the custom wb feature.

 

My other choice is to turn the orange light off throughout the whole city which is not a viable option. lol

 

3rd choice.....I couldn't do this in camera raw.  I tried reducing the orange, but you lose alot of information when you do that.

 

Any help?

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have never used that custom WB feature and since you already captured a RAW image you can try two things :

 

1- simply change white balance Temp. Slider in lightroom to add more blue

 

Or

 

2- use Split toning by changing the upper part "Highlight" in the following way :

- Hue slider to be on blue color (around 220-225)

- then turn saturation slider up until you like what you see.

 

Of course you can do better job in Photoshop by masking but it is complicated to be explained here

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi guys,

I know this is a very noob question, but......

 

What do you guys do to remove a color cast from a photo?

 

The situation here is:  Nighttime, theres a bright orange light that is lighting up the whole street.  When you take a picture of the city, the image comes out orange. How do you remove that orange light?

 

What I did was I took a custom white balance card against that orange light and it came out all weird. I'm not sure if I'm doing it right. Its the first time I've tried using the custom wb feature.

 

My other choice is to turn the orange light off throughout the whole city which is not a viable option. lol

 

3rd choice.....I couldn't do this in camera raw.  I tried reducing the orange, but you lose alot of information when you do that.

 

Any help?

 

> white balance card

Shoot the card in the ambient lighting in raw mode.

Use Lightroom (or Capture One ?) to create and use a custom white-balance for that lighting condition by pointing the software at the white card.

Link to post
Share on other sites

hi weinhous,

thank you for reply.

Do you mean I should shoot at the white balance card away from that orange light?  Or any light source.  And then  place it as a starting point for white balancing in light room?

 

Then use the eye dropper tool on the image I took?

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have never used that custom WB feature and since you already captured a RAW image you can try two things :

 

1- simply change white balance Temp. Slider in lightroom to add more blue

 

Or

 

2- use Split toning by changing the upper part "Highlight" in the following way :

- Hue slider to be on blue color (around 220-225)

- then turn saturation slider up until you like what you see.

 

Of course you can do better job in Photoshop by masking but it is complicated to be explained here

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

I couldn't get the temperature route to work for me, but I'll give that split toning and see if that works.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Guest all8

You can take a photo of the grey card in the desired "neutral" light and then, in LR, use the eyedropper to select that as the White Balance reference.

 

Or

 

You can do the same thing using the Custom WB of the camera, taking a setting from a grey card in the desired light. Measuring from the Orange light would not work, probably has the opposite of the desired effect?

 

First option is probably easier I think, but you can try both at the same time (set WB and then take a test shot) and then fix it up in LR if needed.

Link to post
Share on other sites

hi weinhous,

thank you for reply.

Do you mean I should shoot at the white balance card away from that orange light?  Or any light source.  And then  place it as a starting point for white balancing in light room?

 

Then use the eye dropper tool on the image I took?

Put the white balance card in your subjects' position in the weird light and flat-on to your camera.

 

Use Lightroom's eyedropper tool on the card to tell Lightroom that the card should be rendered as white. The Temperature and Hue sliders will jump to the positions needed to make the card white despite the weird lighting.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Posts

    • ISO 320 is the A7R5's second base ISO setting. You will find at ISO 320 you will get better results than even ISO 200. I normally take a set of shots at 1600, 3200 and 6400 ISO. I am taking 60 light frames and 10 dark frames. I don't do any adjustments to the files before stacking. I really need to get organised and do some bias frames now. Here is pretty much my first successful Milky Way shot from a few months ago. I was combatting a bit of ambient light and quite a lot of cloud but I'm pretty happy with this. It was shot using my Sigma 16-28 f2.8 which is better at astro than I had anticipated, at ISO 1600.

      Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

      Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

    • Thanks for the information. Since my original post, I did some "experiments" at different iso settings. Best results were obtained at iso 320, and then increasing the exposure by four stops in Lightroom. The biggest difference compared to using a higher iso was that there was detail in dark foreground areas, while at high iso the dark areas were blocked. This is consistent with articles I've read about ISO invariance.
    • I do a bit of astro photography and do a lot of research etc. on best settings to use. I have never heard of anyone using ISO bracketing! Typically, higher ISO settings such as 1600, 3200 or 6400 are used and multiple light and dark frames are stacked to reduce noise. If you are worried about noise in dark foreground areas then just use a seperate exposure for them then blend the exposures in post processing. By the way, I also have an A7R5.
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...