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I've been trying to get my boss to take his 67 Mustang to cool location for a photoshoot for ages but we're always too busy. I now only have a week before moving to Sweden so I wanted to get a couple photos of the beast before I go. These are both bokeh panoramas (Brenizer Method) photos, taken from about 35 shots each and stitched using Autostitch64. These were both taken on a Sony A7 (mk1) with a Canon FD 85mm f/1.2 L lens.

 

If you're not sure how these panoramas work check out my new website here: https://3dbokeh.com/info/pano/

 

Here are the stats for the first one: 

 

FF Lens Equiv.: 30mm f/0.47

Effective Sensor Size: 103 x 68mm
Resolution: 184mp

 

28275534713_1a5d6e1a1e_k.jpg

 

And here are the stats for the back view:

 

FF Lens Equiv.: 31mm f/0.44
Effective Sensor Size: 97 x 65mm
Resolution: 170mp

 

28787460020_3309d9892d_k.jpg

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    • Hola, parece que estan agotados, saludos Felipe 
    • I'd suggest you start by running a simple test.  Take pictures of a typical scene/subject and each of the JPEG settings your camera offers.  Then compare them in the output that you normally produce.  You may or may not see a difference.  I normally shoot at the highest JPEG level and save that file -- but make a smaller file (lower resolution) for normal/typical use. There's plenty of editing that you can do with JPEGs on your computer -- depending on your software -- and there are features in your camera that can help out, as well.  That depends on your camera.  Put them together, and it might meet your needs.  For example, your camera probably has several bracketing features that will take the same shot with different settings with one press of the button.  Then you can select the best JPEG to work with on your computer.  I frequently use this feature to control contrast.
    • If you set up some basic presets in your processing software and use batch processing, you don't need jpeg at all. I shoot RAW only, use (free) Faststone Image Viewer which will view any type of image file to cull my shots, and batch process in Darktable. I can start with 2000-3000 shots and in a matter of a few hours have them culled, processed, and posted. A handful of shots, say a couple hundred from a photo walk, are done in minutes.  This saves card space, computer space, and upload time.  The results are very good for posting online. When someone wants to buy one or I decide to print it, I can then return to the RAW file and process it individually for optimum results.  I never delete a RAW file. Sometimes I'll return to an old shot I processed several years ago and reprocess it. I have been very surprised how much better they look as my processing skills improved.  
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