Jump to content

Recommended Posts

What is the issue?

  • Live display doesn't accurately display actual output raw photo. It could be under or over-exposed.
  • When focusing, sometimes you do get a glimpse of what your final image will be. (I believe this is because apparently on sony mirrorless, to aid the autofocus system, exposure is temporarely increased, this doesn't impact your actual exposure, its only temporary, therefore my theory is that what Im looking at, is my actual exposure + 1 stop maybe)
  • The preview is shown as well-lit, however once you see the raw file it's way underexposed.
  • After taking the picture, it somehow does increase the exposure and the output is more accurate to what is shown on live view, like if the camera took a screenshot or maybe the JPEG is wrongly labeled as .ARW, or somehow metada gets corrupted, since shows it was shot at the same settings, same ISO, same aperture, same exposure time but one picture is darker than the other.
  • After taking the picture in this mode it loops back as taking the picture darker.

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Why I believe is an issue with the adapter?

  • Changed the lens to the 50 mm f1.8 and same cycle repeats.
  • Changed to the kit lens from sony and it work ok.

Any help or theories?

  • I know the simplest way would be, just use another adapter or maybe buy a sony lens but, I mean... there are plenty of people with this adapter, so could be an issue with this particular unit of adapter? I haven't seen something similar to my case on the internet.
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Hi Found this in the manual and it worked for me. Its a setting that alters live view.

 

Live View Display

Sets whether or not to show images altered with effects of the exposure compensation, white balance, [Creative Style], or [Picture Effect] on the screen.

  1. MENU  s_menu_shoot2.png(Camera Settings2) → [Live View Display] → desired setting.

Menu item details

Setting Effect ON:
Displays Live View in conditions close to what your picture will look like as a result of applying all your settings. This setting is useful when you want to shoot pictures while checking the results of the shot on the Live View screen.
Setting Effect OFF:
Displays Live View without the effects of exposure compensation, white balance, [Creative Style], or [Picture Effect]. When this setting is used, you can easily check the image composition.
Live View is always displayed with the appropriate brightness even in [Manual Exposure] mode.
When [Setting Effect OFF] is selected, the s_view.png icon is displayed on the Live View screen.
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Posts

    • I'd suggest you start by running a simple test.  Take pictures of a typical scene/subject and each of the JPEG settings your camera offers.  Then compare them in the output that you normally produce.  You may or may not see a difference.  I normally shoot at the highest JPEG level and save that file -- but make a smaller file (lower resolution) for normal/typical use. There's plenty of editing that you can do with JPEGs on your computer -- depending on your software -- and there are features in your camera that can help out, as well.  That depends on your camera.  Put them together, and it might meet your needs.  For example, your camera probably has several bracketing features that will take the same shot with different settings with one press of the button.  Then you can select the best JPEG to work with on your computer.  I frequently use this feature to control contrast.
    • If you set up some basic presets in your processing software and use batch processing, you don't need jpeg at all. I shoot RAW only, use (free) Faststone Image Viewer which will view any type of image file to cull my shots, and batch process in Darktable. I can start with 2000-3000 shots and in a matter of a few hours have them culled, processed, and posted. A handful of shots, say a couple hundred from a photo walk, are done in minutes.  This saves card space, computer space, and upload time.  The results are very good for posting online. When someone wants to buy one or I decide to print it, I can then return to the RAW file and process it individually for optimum results.  I never delete a RAW file. Sometimes I'll return to an old shot I processed several years ago and reprocess it. I have been very surprised how much better they look as my processing skills improved.  
    • If you're only publishing small-sized photo's or viewing on a phone / computer screen, 12-ish MP should be more than enough for your needs. Since with JPEG, the ability to 'fix' stuff on the computer is very limited anyway, you're not giving up much except the ability to crop/recompose after taking the shot. If you tend to crop often or might print large, shoot fine quality instead as JPEGs don't take up a lot of space anyway. I tend to shoot RAW+JPEG. After a trip/shoot, I download my photos to my computer and quickly scan through my JPEGs to select my keepers. The JPEGs are fine for 90% of my needs but at times there are one or two 'WOW'-shots that I might one day print large. I'll edit the RAW of these photos to my hearts content, generate a JPEG, then delete all RAWs to clear up space.
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...