Jump to content

Recommended Posts

I can confirm by first experience that the hotshoe of the A7IV, for whatever reason, is a little tinier than normal ones. I screwed the hotshoe inserting a generic trigger.The shp where I bought the camera confirmed me that a lot of people are having this issue, and choose to put a godox XT1 on the hotshoe and leave there, because as soon as you put in, it will never get out. And on that they mount other flashes like godox. I am not happy with that solution.

I would like to know if I mount a Sony ADP-MAA on the hotshoe of the A7IV, I will be able to remove safely once finished the job. And I would like to know if on this adapter I could mount some Godox flash like V1, with TTL and HSS working properly.

I want to avoid spending 650 euros for FVL-RM60. In the future maybe, but now I am looking for a more affordable solution.

IIf someone aknoledging this problem, has a solution, would be great to know.

Thank you very much!

 

Roberto

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Could it be the other way around?  Instead of the hotshoe being smaller on your A7IV, the flash foot is slightly larger than it should be?  If the hotshoe is indeed smaller than it should be, you should contact Sony Service to get them to replace the defective hotshoe but if the foot on the flashes are larger than it should be then you will need to get in touch with the flash manufacturer. 

If you are looking for a do-it- yourself solution, get yourself a digital caliper and take measurements of the flash foot and the camera's hotshoe.  Once you have the measurements, you can decide which need to be modified, the flash foot or the hotshoe.  Get a set of needle files and carefully work on either the camera or the flash, frequently checking the measurements so as to prevent removing too much material, which could make the fit sloppy.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Posts

    • Thank you XKAES  and Pieter for responding to my query. Since my post, I figured out what I was doing wrong, and now I am getting more predictable results. To answer a few questions, I am using a Sony A7R5, and am aware that it is ISO invariant, however at least for what I've tried, there are limits to how much you can "push" exposure in post. I am doing some night/astrophotography and when I set iso to 400, and increase exposure in post, I get more noise in dark foreground areas than if I use a higher iso in camera when I increase exposure 4 stops or more. I wanted to do iso bracketing so that I could further compare the results and choose the settings that gave me the best results. I had hoped that I could set the minimum iso to 320 and take 3 or more images at 2 stop increments, but I now doubt that's possible. Since the camera is choosing iso based on the light it detects, it may or may not start at 320. Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated. 
    • Thank you @Cameratose. I have tried Shotcut and it seems I can work with the video. I still don't understand why this works and yet iMovie does not. But happy to have a work around and I will keep learning. Thanks for your help. 
    • Out of pure curiosity: why would you want to shoot a bracket using ISO as your means to control exposure? Sony cameras are virtually ISO invariant (save for the second gain step), so raising ISO in camera or in post-production yields nearly identical results. Most people shoot bracketed exposures to gain detail in over- and underexposed areas, but when you use ISO as your exposure variable, you might as well just create the bracket in post by raising/dropping exposure. You don't gain any dynamic range that way.
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...