Jump to content

Recommended Posts

I have bought a Sony a7 ii camera. Also, a speedlight’s ADP-MAA shoe adapter (from the shoes that Sony is using now to the older inverted shoe system), as I have a few of those older flashes. Among the ones I have are the Sony HVL-F43AM and the HVL-F58AM. They all wok fine, and I can perfectly use (mounted on the adapter) the HVL-F43AM as a controller of the HVL-F58AM (acting as slave).

I’m interested in buying a smaller and more portable speedlight, so I was looking at the HVL-F28RM. But I have some doubts.

In Sony’s web page where the HVL-F28RM is shown, it says (at least in the Spanish version of this page), that this flash can be used as a controller of other HVL-F28RM flashes. It doesn’t say that it can work as a controller of other Sony flashes (in general). If it would only work with other HVL-F28RM, it wouldn’t make much cense for me, but who knows.

My questions are: Does the Sony HVL-F28RM can act as a controller of other Sony and Sony compatible speedlights apart from HVL-F28RMs?
And (most important), if so, would it work as a controller of the HVL-F43AM and the HVL-F58AM?

Does anybody know?

I have tried to find googleing, if any article would deal with the subject and tried to find if anybody said anything about it on YouTube, with no luck.

Edited by Alejandro
Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't yet have the HVL-F28RM ( the only Sony/Minolta flash i don't yet own) and before you get into WL with this unit, you need to know the following:

- After reviewing the online manual, it appears this unit will only work in the WL Radio protocol which is a totally different matter than the Optical WL that your HVL-F43AM and F58AM are designed for.

- From what i can understand from that manual, only flash units that have their model number ending with RM will work in WL with this unit and as a WL remote will only work with either the HVL-F45RM or 60RM unis or M units mounted of the the Sony Radio controllers FA-WRC1M and receivers FA-WRR1 which is not the case with your present units.

- As a controller on your body, the HVL-F32M would be just fine with your present units. Or HVL-F43M or HVL-F60M. HVL-F45RM and 60RM can also work but some fiddling in the custom menus of your actual units will be necessary.

- Should you go out and buy this unit, i have one worry in that the size of this flash is very small and its flash head is much closer to the lens axis which could end-up generating a lot of red eyes in the pictures of people and this is why i did not rush to get it (awaiting to find a less expensive used one to try) a bit like the flash shown on the left of the following pic (Meike 320s) that was so close to the lens axis that anything with eyes would get weird color/artefacts in the eyes.

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Edited by michelb
Link to post
Share on other sites

 

Thank you michelb for all the information, really useful.

I wanted a smaller flash, but was not taking into account the red eyes issue. If I use a flash mounted on the camera, I usually bounce the light, though I already knew that the HVL-F28RM has limited rotation capabilities.

The HVL-F43AM is not that big, but I wanted something even smaller and lighter to carry around.

I think I might then go for a Godox Tt350 just to carry around and use as a simple flash on the camera (which light I will be able to bounce on any direction) and if wanting to shoot off camera (when not choosing to travel light-weighted), I can still use one of the Sony flashes I have as a controller (mounted on the shoe adapter) or the King wireless trigger (mounted on the adapter) and King receptors that I also have from before.

Thanks again.

Link to post
Share on other sites

On 8/28/2021 at 10:22 AM, michelb said:

As a controller on your body, the HVL-F32M would be just fine with your present units.

The Sony HVL-32M flash is not being sold in my country by Sony, but I found one (second hand) that is being sold through our local equivalent to e-bay. I read the specifications for this flash, and it would fulfil all my needs and expectations. I’ll try to buy it.
Thanks again.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Posts

    • I've bought a chipped adaptor in the hope of using M42 lenses on my Sony Alpha 230 with focus confirmation. This has worked with my Canon EOS 400D but that doesn't have an in-camera AF drive. However, I'm finding that the Sony's in-camera AF drive behaves as if an AF lens is attached by audibly running and there is no focus confirmation. Is there any way I can stop the drive running and have focus confirmation?
    • Thinking about control of images in low light with blur and movement I would like to experiment more with me manually varying aperture during a shot. With a manual lens this allows me to start with a small aperture and collect some fluidity and then snap lens to much larger aperture to give a more solid defined image. To date in a few quick trials I have just used a fixed exposure time judged by seeing exposure at a few apertures and then just trying my dexterity. A next step up would be that the camera closes the shutter when it has accumulated enough light. Maybe some long exposure /astronomy contexts might do that sort of thing....? To help imagine I'm thinking musicians in a bar, animals in low light, individuals in motion in some context. Mostly I seem to need near 1s exposure to synch my aperture change and have enough time. A de-clicked lens or one with a loose aperture ring would help (maybe I have at home on the shelf) but I am away with just 2 old Olympus lenses and TBH the aperture rings are a bit stiff and close to the focus ring... Any thoughts or suggestions?
    • Friends don't let friends use Luminar. They lie, their DAM is either non-existent or garbage. They tell you it's a one-time purchase with free updates for the life of the program. Problem is, they bring out a whole new program every year or two, then they stop 'updating' or even supporting the old one. They give away the last version free to suck you in to the next one. I tried them a while back and went through the entire process. When I removed it from my computer (after I cancelled my sale on the new version) I had to delete 36,000 sidecar/thumbnails of my photos, most of which I had never even opened in Luminar. It just went into my folders and automatically created all of these files.  There are many decent programs out there you can get that will stand head and shoulders above Luminar.  
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...