Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Trying to get some clarification on mixed messages on dual native ISO which seems to be different based on various factors.

Seems the camera native ISO is 100 & 320 (is this just for photography?)

For Slog3, I've gathered that it's 800 & 2500 (though some say it's a factor of 4 which would make it 3200)

What is it for HLG3?

Why is it different depending on profile?

Thanks for the clarification!

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

I am not 100% sure about this, but from what I remember the reason why Base ISO differs from one gamma to another, is because each has different ways of exposing the image.

For example S-Log takes 2 exposures simultaneously and combines them together into a single frame to render you that high dynamic range, and I believe that is the reason why the minimum ISO is 800.

That's why Log gammas like Slog HLG will have rather higher base points that contrasty profiles like Still, Movie, Cine1 and so on.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Different bodies have a different second gain point. All the Sony bodies start at 100, but the second gain may be at 320 (I believe that's the case for the A7RIV and A7RV - not surprising with the same sensor), but others have the second gain at a different ISO - you need to find a site which does testing (like photons to photos) to get the number. I think there is at least one sensor where the second gain is 800. All of that is for stills.

I don't shoot video, so I don't know much about it.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I figured out that you have to multiply by a factor of 8 for SLOG3 and by a factor of 1.5 for HLG3... So for the Sony A7RV which has dual ISOs of 100 & 320, you get 125 & 400 for HLG3. I tested this in camera with the lens cap on and it seems to verify... grain increases until 400 where it drops down again. SLOG3 is 800 & 2500.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Posts

    • I'd suggest you start by running a simple test.  Take pictures of a typical scene/subject and each of the JPEG settings your camera offers.  Then compare them in the output that you normally produce.  You may or may not see a difference.  I normally shoot at the highest JPEG level and save that file -- but make a smaller file (lower resolution) for normal/typical use. There's plenty of editing that you can do with JPEGs on your computer -- depending on your software -- and there are features in your camera that can help out, as well.  That depends on your camera.  Put them together, and it might meet your needs.  For example, your camera probably has several bracketing features that will take the same shot with different settings with one press of the button.  Then you can select the best JPEG to work with on your computer.  I frequently use this feature to control contrast.
    • If you set up some basic presets in your processing software and use batch processing, you don't need jpeg at all. I shoot RAW only, use (free) Faststone Image Viewer which will view any type of image file to cull my shots, and batch process in Darktable. I can start with 2000-3000 shots and in a matter of a few hours have them culled, processed, and posted. A handful of shots, say a couple hundred from a photo walk, are done in minutes.  This saves card space, computer space, and upload time.  The results are very good for posting online. When someone wants to buy one or I decide to print it, I can then return to the RAW file and process it individually for optimum results.  I never delete a RAW file. Sometimes I'll return to an old shot I processed several years ago and reprocess it. I have been very surprised how much better they look as my processing skills improved.  
    • If you're only publishing small-sized photo's or viewing on a phone / computer screen, 12-ish MP should be more than enough for your needs. Since with JPEG, the ability to 'fix' stuff on the computer is very limited anyway, you're not giving up much except the ability to crop/recompose after taking the shot. If you tend to crop often or might print large, shoot fine quality instead as JPEGs don't take up a lot of space anyway. I tend to shoot RAW+JPEG. After a trip/shoot, I download my photos to my computer and quickly scan through my JPEGs to select my keepers. The JPEGs are fine for 90% of my needs but at times there are one or two 'WOW'-shots that I might one day print large. I'll edit the RAW of these photos to my hearts content, generate a JPEG, then delete all RAWs to clear up space.
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...