problems with focus with Macro lens

[mlevin77]

I'm using a macro lens on my Sony a6000 to take pictures of bugs and such. In the SCN mode for macro, the focus is such that only part of the subject is in focus and part is blurry. I'm not trying to get everything (like background) in focus, but it would be nice to have the whole insect sharp for example. I then tried setting Aperture priority mode with a large aperture, but then the shot takes forever to complete (even in bright daylight), so everything ends up blurry anyhow. What am I doing wrong - how do I set appropriate focus with a macro lens?

[Guest all8]

Try a faster/higher ISO value.

[Username]

........ In the SCN mode for macro, the focus is such that only part of the

subject is in focus ........ tried setting Aperture priority mode with a large

aperture, but then the shot takes forever to complete (even in bright

daylight), so everything ends up blurry anyhow. .........

   

I think you meant a large f/number ... not a large aperture. IOW 

you set a SMALL aperture, and acoarst the shutter hadda stay 

open much longer to collect enuf light thru the smaller aperture.  

   

While you are correct in using a smaller aperture to increase

depth of field, short of engaging in rather exotic techniques you

should work on how to place your limited DoF onto the subject

in a way that presents the subject well, but does not requiring

totally sharp focus "nose to tail" ... cuz you'll almost never have 

that. IOW it's also an aesthetic problem, not totally technical. 

   

Anywho, you should greatly increase the ISO. Subject-in-focus

is waaaay more important than low noise. 

     

IOW, there is no free lunch. Something gotta give. 

[mlevin77]

Aha, thanks - that makes sense.  Is it possible to set this combo in the MR mode - as one of the 3 saved settings? I see how to switch between the 3 modes but I can't figure out how to go in and change the settings of each one. How do I do it?

[Guest Jaf-Photo]

There are techniques for focus stacking. It means that you combine several images with different points of focus. The techniques are rather advanced, and ultimately unnessesary, as focus transitions are beautiful.

 

When you shoot macro, a higher F-number will not make a huge difference in the depth of field but it will lower your shutter speed. If the shutter speed is too low, photos will be blurry anyway.

 

Find a good balance between aperture, shutter speed and ISO. If you shoot in A mode you only have to set the aperture and keep an eye on shutter speed and ISO. You don't want to use too high ISO, either, because in macro details matter and high ISO ruins detail.

 

Regarding your last question, I would advice against saving one set of preset settings for macro. It is much better to dial in the settings for various conditions. This will help develop your understanding for what the settings do for a picture.

 

Insects are a bit skittish, so I would suggest practicing macro shots at home. Put a small piece of jewellry on top of a flower and try different aperture settings. When you find a setting that gives you the depth of field you want, try changing the lighting and dial in ISO to give you an acceptable shutter speed. Maybe it sounds silly, but these exercises do prepare you for that time when a rare butterfly lands on a flower and you have five seconds to shoot it.

[Username]

Don't know where you're at bug-wise, but 

it's a common practice to refrigerate bugs 

to slow them down. You can even bring a 

cooler into field work using "blue ice". All 

the usual precautions apply, and you get

only a brief period before the bug is back 

up to full speed.  

   

And no, I've never tried it on bugs ... but 

it works well on children. You can correct 

for the blue skin later in post ! 

[Guest Jaf-Photo]

I do it the other way around. I slow down my own movements to avoid spooking the critters. I also do it in street photography, for the same reason. Freezing other creatures is bad karma.

[Username]

I do it the other way around. I slow down my own movements

to avoid spooking the critters. I also do it in street photography,

for the same reason. Freezing other creatures is bad karma.

   

I hope you use the word "freezing" kinda loosely here ?  

  

But for any others reading here, one does not actually 

freeze a bug, nor make it "pose" absolutely still. You  

cool it down to slow it down .... yes it's intrusion for the 

convenience of a human .... IOW, the bug is not being 

subject to anything that it doesn't otherwise normally 

encounter, without harm.  

    

Do I also hafta explain here about the children as well ?  

OK. They don't reeeeally ... not most times ... turn blue. 

[Guest Jaf-Photo]

 

A dude I know, not really a friend, read about freezing insects for macros. He caught a hornet in a plastic tub, put it in the freezer, then brought it out to photograph it. He was using a macro filter, got too close and got stung something bad. So, I'm sticking with the bad karma argument