Jump to content

Recommended Posts

 

I bought a Sony a6700 earlier in June and have been very much enjoying it. However, I took some low light photos recently at very high ISOs and noticed horizontal lines across just the right half of the image. I'd expect a ton of noise at these ISOs, but I find it concerning that it's not uniform. I know it would be rare for this to show up in an actual photo, but I did discover it when taking a very low light photo of a room.This was a big purchase for me so I'm quite concerned I have a lemon! I know that it would be rare that this would

 

I was wondering if before I RMA someone could test to see if it's a quirk of the camera or I have a bad sensor. The easiest way to force/exaggerate the issue is to turn off high ISO noise reduction, crank the ISO to max and take a photo with the lens cap on. Also, if you could provide a jpeg or raw of it that would be amazing. An example of what it looks like is attached.

 

Thank you

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't know why you would even try this to be honest. If the camera is operating normally under normal photographic conditions I would be happy with that. Just out of curiosity, what ISO did you set?

If you are unhappy with the performance of the camera then return it.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Posts

    • Thinking about control of images in low light with blur and movement I would like to experiment more with me manually varying aperture during a shot. With a manual lens this allows me to start with a small aperture and collect some fluidity and then snap lens to much larger aperture to give a more solid defined image. To date in a few quick trials I have just used a fixed exposure time judged by seeing exposure at a few apertures and then just trying my dexterity. A next step up would be that the camera closes the shutter when it has accumulated enough light. Maybe some long exposure /astronomy contexts might do that sort of thing....? To help imagine I'm thinking musicians in a bar, animals in low light, individuals in motion in some context. Mostly I seem to need near 1s exposure to synch my aperture change and have enough time. A de-clicked lens or one with a loose aperture ring would help (maybe I have at home on the shelf) but I am away with just 2 old Olympus lenses and TBH the aperture rings are a bit stiff and close to the focus ring... Any thoughts or suggestions?
    • Friends don't let friends use Luminar. They lie, their DAM is either non-existent or garbage. They tell you it's a one-time purchase with free updates for the life of the program. Problem is, they bring out a whole new program every year or two, then they stop 'updating' or even supporting the old one. They give away the last version free to suck you in to the next one. I tried them a while back and went through the entire process. When I removed it from my computer (after I cancelled my sale on the new version) I had to delete 36,000 sidecar/thumbnails of my photos, most of which I had never even opened in Luminar. It just went into my folders and automatically created all of these files.  There are many decent programs out there you can get that will stand head and shoulders above Luminar.  
    • I am considering purchasing the Luminar editing program for IOS to use with my A7iv; however in listing which cameras are compatible, there is this statement: "Sony vcb cropped p send-raw format is not currently supported."  Does anyone know if this means that the program will not work with raw photos?  Has anyone successfully used this program editing raw photos? 
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...