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Sony 16-70mm vs Sigma 18-50mm

LQP

By LQP,
in Sony Alpha APS-C Lenses

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LQP Newbie

LQP

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Can you guys help me compare the optical quality of Sony 16-70mm f4 with Sigma 18-50mm f2.8? I'm interested in sharpness, color as well as bokeh.

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Pieter Mentor

Pieter

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Out of curiosity, why don't you include the Tamron 17-70 f/2.8 in your comparison? My assumption would be that you value compactness over all else. If not, the Tamron is a vastly better option than the Zony 16-70, which is very dated and was already mediocre and overpriced at release.

Unless you need 16 and/or 70mm, I'd go with the Sigma over the Zony if you value minimal size. It's better in pretty much every aspect, has a faster aperture and is generally cheaper, though it lacks stabilization. Might not be an issue though if you have an A6(5/6/7)00.

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Cameratose Rising Star

Cameratose

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Seek out image samples. There are plenty of other places like Fred Miranda and Dyxum that have threads dedicated to specific lenses. You can also watch reviews. The problem with your question is that unless you actually find someone who has direct experience with both lenses, then our opinions are based on the same information that you can find. 

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    • XKAES
      JPEG options?

      By XKAES · Posted

      I'd suggest you start by running a simple test.  Take pictures of a typical scene/subject and each of the JPEG settings your camera offers.  Then compare them in the output that you normally produce.  You may or may not see a difference.  I normally shoot at the highest JPEG level and save that file -- but make a smaller file (lower resolution) for normal/typical use. There's plenty of editing that you can do with JPEGs on your computer -- depending on your software -- and there are features in your camera that can help out, as well.  That depends on your camera.  Put them together, and it might meet your needs.  For example, your camera probably has several bracketing features that will take the same shot with different settings with one press of the button.  Then you can select the best JPEG to work with on your computer.  I frequently use this feature to control contrast.
    • Cameratose
      JPEG options?

      By Cameratose · Posted

      If you set up some basic presets in your processing software and use batch processing, you don't need jpeg at all. I shoot RAW only, use (free) Faststone Image Viewer which will view any type of image file to cull my shots, and batch process in Darktable. I can start with 2000-3000 shots and in a matter of a few hours have them culled, processed, and posted. A handful of shots, say a couple hundred from a photo walk, are done in minutes.  This saves card space, computer space, and upload time.  The results are very good for posting online. When someone wants to buy one or I decide to print it, I can then return to the RAW file and process it individually for optimum results.  I never delete a RAW file. Sometimes I'll return to an old shot I processed several years ago and reprocess it. I have been very surprised how much better they look as my processing skills improved.  
    • Pieter
      JPEG options?

      By Pieter · Posted

      If you're only publishing small-sized photo's or viewing on a phone / computer screen, 12-ish MP should be more than enough for your needs. Since with JPEG, the ability to 'fix' stuff on the computer is very limited anyway, you're not giving up much except the ability to crop/recompose after taking the shot. If you tend to crop often or might print large, shoot fine quality instead as JPEGs don't take up a lot of space anyway. I tend to shoot RAW+JPEG. After a trip/shoot, I download my photos to my computer and quickly scan through my JPEGs to select my keepers. The JPEGs are fine for 90% of my needs but at times there are one or two 'WOW'-shots that I might one day print large. I'll edit the RAW of these photos to my hearts content, generate a JPEG, then delete all RAWs to clear up space.

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