Jump to content

Recommended Posts

On a recent astrophotography shoot I took foreground images at ISO 1000, 2 minutes, F1.8. It resulted in extremely noises images with hot pixels that are unrecoverable. I have never needed to use Long Exposure Noise Reduction in any of my other cameras and have never had noise like this even at 4 minutes in any including my Sony A7iv and very old Nikon D750. The file was medium RAW 26MP with the hopes that by reducing the MP it would decrease noise levels. Outside temps were between 55-60F and not hot enough to cause hot pixels.  Is this an issue with my sensor or is the A7Rv just this bad at high ISO long exposures? I did an indoor test dark frame with same setting but at 800 ISO with lense cap on and got the same results.  I tried uploading file of 800KB but will not upload for some reason.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I can't speak specifically about your camera, but mine has HIGH ISO NR and LONG EXPOSURE NR -- and each has different settings and restrictions/limitations.  On my camera, anything over 1 second is considered LONG EXPOSURE, and anything over 800 is considered HIGH ISO.  I assume you've checked your owner's manual for the options you have for these features (read the footnotes, if any -- for example, they may not affect RAW files).  They may need to be adjusted.  They might to too active, or not active enough.

Edited by XKAES
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Posts

    • That's Exposure Compensation value.

      Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

      Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

         
    • I've bought a chipped adaptor in the hope of using M42 lenses on my Sony Alpha 230 with focus confirmation. This has worked with my Canon EOS 400D but that doesn't have an in-camera AF drive. However, I'm finding that the Sony's in-camera AF drive behaves as if an AF lens is attached by audibly running and there is no focus confirmation. Is there any way I can stop the drive running and have focus confirmation?
    • Thinking about control of images in low light with blur and movement I would like to experiment more with me manually varying aperture during a shot. With a manual lens this allows me to start with a small aperture and collect some fluidity and then snap lens to much larger aperture to give a more solid defined image. To date in a few quick trials I have just used a fixed exposure time judged by seeing exposure at a few apertures and then just trying my dexterity. A next step up would be that the camera closes the shutter when it has accumulated enough light. Maybe some long exposure /astronomy contexts might do that sort of thing....? To help imagine I'm thinking musicians in a bar, animals in low light, individuals in motion in some context. Mostly I seem to need near 1s exposure to synch my aperture change and have enough time. A de-clicked lens or one with a loose aperture ring would help (maybe I have at home on the shelf) but I am away with just 2 old Olympus lenses and TBH the aperture rings are a bit stiff and close to the focus ring... Any thoughts or suggestions?
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...