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hello there. I'm looking for an answer before I switched from canon to sony. ( i own an a7r3) . I work like 80 % with my Speedlight on. BUT, at mirrorless cameras ( i I think all of them) the TTL assist beam won't fire and I cant easily ( like never) focus in the dark. maybe you've heard something or is any update going to be released that helped with this issue?

I mean I have events concerts that are really really low light and I end up getting my old Canon DSLR because of the assist of the beam. thanks.
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  • 4 months later...

Hello:  I switched from Canon to Sony early in 2018 and was shocked to realize the same issue.  The IR assist beam that worked so well on my Canon DSLR’s, does not work on any mirrorless system.  Something to do with how IR interacts, or doesn’t interact with a mirrorless design. It’s not just sony.

What’s helped me a bit, but not a complete solution, is to shoot with the lens almost wide open and turn off live view.  That has helped me quite a bit, but I think that workaround has more to do with helping the lens focus in low light; not much to do about the flash issue.   I’ve also returned to the old fashioned way of estimating my distance and focusing manually, shooting @ F4.  Used to do it back in the manual focus lens days and with practice, you get very good at it.

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I shoot lots of concerts, and most venues and artists forbid flash.  

At fashion events where I'm allowed to flash, use of focus assist is grounds for ejection, it shows up on other photographer's shots and ruins them.

 

JCC

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    • Hola, parece que estan agotados, saludos Felipe 
    • I'd suggest you start by running a simple test.  Take pictures of a typical scene/subject and each of the JPEG settings your camera offers.  Then compare them in the output that you normally produce.  You may or may not see a difference.  I normally shoot at the highest JPEG level and save that file -- but make a smaller file (lower resolution) for normal/typical use. There's plenty of editing that you can do with JPEGs on your computer -- depending on your software -- and there are features in your camera that can help out, as well.  That depends on your camera.  Put them together, and it might meet your needs.  For example, your camera probably has several bracketing features that will take the same shot with different settings with one press of the button.  Then you can select the best JPEG to work with on your computer.  I frequently use this feature to control contrast.
    • If you set up some basic presets in your processing software and use batch processing, you don't need jpeg at all. I shoot RAW only, use (free) Faststone Image Viewer which will view any type of image file to cull my shots, and batch process in Darktable. I can start with 2000-3000 shots and in a matter of a few hours have them culled, processed, and posted. A handful of shots, say a couple hundred from a photo walk, are done in minutes.  This saves card space, computer space, and upload time.  The results are very good for posting online. When someone wants to buy one or I decide to print it, I can then return to the RAW file and process it individually for optimum results.  I never delete a RAW file. Sometimes I'll return to an old shot I processed several years ago and reprocess it. I have been very surprised how much better they look as my processing skills improved.  
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