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Hi everyone. I wanted to reach out and see if anyone else was struggling with this issue. I have been having pink vertical lines baked into my footage lately and it is only when the highlights are overexposed. I can bring the highlights back down and the pink lines will disappear, but any other time it is there. It can be the sky, lights, bright walls, doesn't really matter. If it is pretty bright light the lines will appear. I have attached an example for everyone to review. View Image Here

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I had this problem today too. I was shooting in S LOG3 and when I went to edit my footage I noticed that when messing with the highlights the link boxes appear. Could it possibly the continuous auto focus as i can see the boxes kind of go over certain zones on the footage like it's trying to focus but it's odd that the pink/green boxes show up on captured footage

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Interesting. I will go out and try turning to MF and see if that changes anything. Your photo is definitely same problem I am experiencing. I am going to try to reach out to Sony and see if I can't get an answer from them as well. 

 

**Update - contacted Sony support and they were not much help on the matter at all. They basically said just don't overexpose 🤯. Life altering fix. 

Edited by Alawnzzo
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    • Hola, parece que estan agotados, saludos Felipe 
    • I'd suggest you start by running a simple test.  Take pictures of a typical scene/subject and each of the JPEG settings your camera offers.  Then compare them in the output that you normally produce.  You may or may not see a difference.  I normally shoot at the highest JPEG level and save that file -- but make a smaller file (lower resolution) for normal/typical use. There's plenty of editing that you can do with JPEGs on your computer -- depending on your software -- and there are features in your camera that can help out, as well.  That depends on your camera.  Put them together, and it might meet your needs.  For example, your camera probably has several bracketing features that will take the same shot with different settings with one press of the button.  Then you can select the best JPEG to work with on your computer.  I frequently use this feature to control contrast.
    • If you set up some basic presets in your processing software and use batch processing, you don't need jpeg at all. I shoot RAW only, use (free) Faststone Image Viewer which will view any type of image file to cull my shots, and batch process in Darktable. I can start with 2000-3000 shots and in a matter of a few hours have them culled, processed, and posted. A handful of shots, say a couple hundred from a photo walk, are done in minutes.  This saves card space, computer space, and upload time.  The results are very good for posting online. When someone wants to buy one or I decide to print it, I can then return to the RAW file and process it individually for optimum results.  I never delete a RAW file. Sometimes I'll return to an old shot I processed several years ago and reprocess it. I have been very surprised how much better they look as my processing skills improved.  
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