Split Image finder

[dwightlooi]

Sorry, but focus peaking is highly imprecise. Focus zooming is both imprecise and makes you lose composition while you focus.

 

(1) Why can't Sony put a split image finder in the A7 series? We know a "virtual" split image finder is technically doable -- Fuji X-e2 has one. Basically it uses the phase detection sensors in the middle of the frame, artificially move the image apart sideways as it is blurred and shows them aligned when sharp. It is a lot easier and more precise to line up vertical lines in the frame than to judge whether you have the most peaking highlights or to try to tell if the picture is truly at its sharpest even when zoomed in. Or, hey, make it an app you pay for and can download from Sony -- I'll pay $200 for a split image finder app!

 

(2) Even better -- given the info the E/FE cameras have on the lenses through the mount -- is a DEPTH OF FIELD scale in the finder. The finder can show a bar with two numbers one on each end showing the min and max depth of field at the current aperture. An arrow or triangle between the two shows the current point of exact focus. The use can then manually skew the point of focus towards any point within that range to his preference he he wants. If the arrow or triangle falls outside the DOF range the scale shows either the min or max number for the current DOF blinking either to the right or left of the arrow. This was available on the Contax RX (circa 1994) and it made that one of my favorite cameras.

 

These are especially valuable given the number of native MF and adapted lenses available for the FE Mount.

[Username]

`     

     

Dream on, and buy nothing unless it has the features you 

insist upon. Also, brush up on your skills. Everbody knows 

that peaking is error prone, but did you say:  

    

" Focus zooming is both imprecise and ..... " ?   

   

If you believe that, you have a user problem. Magnified MF 

is 100% dead on, always, immutably, actually better than 

putting a high power loupe to monitor screen, cuz when it's 

engaged, the FW also boosts sharpening and contrast, so 

you can see the focus "pop" even in miserable conditions.  

   

Magnified MF works perfectly, so just trust it and your skill

with it is bound increase. Same for the lack of split screen 

convenience. You just work with it and you get used to it. 

Or, acoarst, just go with Fuji !   

    

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Your post hints that you might be somewhat a perfectionist. 

If so, you're in luck. You'd acoarst almost always work from

raw files. If that IS you, you can shoot RAW+JPEG and use 

various controls to yield a hyped up, contrasty, sharpened 

viewing image. Since such controls affect only the jpegs, 

your raw files remain normal, but your focusing accuracy is 

enhanced regardless of skill level, eyesight problems, etc.  

    

  

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[a6k]

.... ....

   

If you believe that, you have a user problem. Magnified MF 

is 100% dead on, always, immutably, actually better than 

putting a high power loupe to monitor screen, cuz when it's 

engaged, the FW also boosts sharpening and contrast, so 

you can see the focus "pop" even in miserable conditions.  

   

Magnified MF works perfectly, so just trust it and your skill

with it is bound increase. Same for the lack of split screen 

convenience. You just work with it and you get used to it. 

Or, acoarst, just go with Fuji !   

    

....

 

Magnified focus works very well and is available even with AF still engaged. HOWEVER, it is not fast. The old film camera with either micro prism or split image focusing were very fast.

    

  

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[SrMi]

Sorry, but focus peaking is highly imprecise. Focus zooming is both imprecise and makes you lose composition while you focus.

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I know that at least Sony A7r III does not have AASD (auto aperture stop down) in MF mode. I.e., unless you focus with fully open aperture, manual focus is quite hard.