I've given up. It's hopeless trying to Google my way out of this pickle. Every time I mention "bulb" the search just shows websites instructing you on how to turn it ON. And trust me, I've looked and tried to retrace my steps.
I was out hiking last week. During this time I took a lat of photos and let the A6000 hang around my neck, as well as packed in a relatively big fanny pack. When I got home I realized that a bunch of the last photos I took were all smeared. That's when I notice the shutter speed expressed as 30" instead of the regular 1/600. I'm not all that technical when it boils down to hardcore camera science, but I love taking photos during these kind of adventures. And I love my camera. That's why I'm now reaching out to you guys.
What's the problem? How do I "get back" to the regular display of shutter speed? In short, how the F do I switch of bulb mode?
I recorded a short vid on my phone to demonstrate. It's not at all very detailed or thorough, but I hope it's enough.
Long story short I only need 1 lens to work and function a certain way. I do NOT need autofocus. But it's the new Sigma 14-24mm for Nikon that just came out a little while ago, not many people have it on their radar. I just need it to work on aperture priority mode and be able to bracket photos as well. But i shoot on manual focus at infinite. I'm wondering if only the more expensive adapters like the commlite will work with this function or if the cheaper 99 dollar ones will let me control aperture as well. I care about image quality but if the more expensive adapters are only that pricey because of autofocus I could care less. Any info would be appreciated, thanks!
TL;DR: got any recommendations for a cheap fast manual non-radioactive 50mm prime?
I have an a6500 with the 16-70mm kit lens and also the 30mm f1.4 Sigma lens, which I love by the way. However, I want to use some legacy primes to experiment with different focal lengths, perhaps a tilt adapter later on, etc.
I also don't want to use a radioactive lens, because firstly I don't have a basement in my small apartment to "hide" the lens away when I'm not using it, secondly, I have a dog, thirdly I just don't want to take the risk.
I have shortlisted it to the following:
Minolta rokkor-md 50mm 1.4 - might be radioactive?? but f1.4 is very fast and apparently it's sharp too
Helios 44m 58mm f2 - this is a lens primed for its swirly bokeh but I've heard on crop sensor bodies the bokeh doesn't swirl as well
Auto-Takumar 55mm f2 - this has great "soap-bubble" bokeh, and works well on crop mode. The only thing holding me back from pulling the trigger on this lens is that it may be radioactive (according to the Angry Photographer it's not but others say it is, and Pentax was notorious for radioactive lenses in that era) and also it's very RARE and fairly expensive. I'm in love with the look of the Takumar lenses, by the way.
Konica 50mm Hexanon f1.7 - this lens is very sharp wide open and very inexpensive, don't think it's radioactive (is the bokeh any good?)
Nikon 50mm f/1.8 AF/AFD - not that vintage but fairly cheap and certified non radioactive (lens-makers stopped using thorium in the mid-80's)
Anyone got any suggestions/tested the radioactivity of these lenses? Also, does the radioactivity vary from lens to lens? Thanks.
Is there a way, or a setting I'm missing that will make the the focus distance when manual focusing, stay constant after a power cycle?
I know this seems like a fussy issue to most, but when you do complex still like setups that require multiple exposures that need to be in perfect register for compositing in post, it can be a major issue.
Ideas? I cant find anything online about this.
I have a new A7M2. I purchased a 18 year old Leica 35-70mm F4 Macro/Zoom lens. My question is, I will use this for traveling, generally street shots. I know that I should manually adjust the IBIS to the exact lens size, but at any given point that could change from a 35MM through to 70mm. I would rather not continually adjust the IBIS. What would be the difference or problem if I left it set at 70MM verses 35MM or maybe 50MM? I have searched for an answer, but have found nothing close to answering this question.
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