Jump to content

Upgrade from a33 to ______?


Recommended Posts

I've had a a33 for years and have loved it.   I'm looking to upgrade.   The main focus of my photos currently is high schools sports.  I'm shooting fast moving objects in poor lighting conditions.   Many of the gyms I'm shooting in are older and the lighting is bad.   I'm just shooting for a hobby that I enjoy.   I do a little landscape, and macro. 

 

I've been told the newer Sony cameras are able to shoot at a higher ISO with producing less noise.   I'd like to keep with a Sony camera and also if possible the same lens mount without using adapters.   I've also been told that the translucent mirror in the a33 "steals" some of the light for viewing, which compounds the problem of shooting in low light. 

 

What would you recommend as a step up camera?   I don't feel the need to go full frame.  I'd like to keep to less then $2k for a new body. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

The a77-MkII is the love it or leave it choice. 

   

Chances are good you will love it. 

  

Otherwise you'll be using an A-to-E converter 

on an a6500/6300. OTOH, it's quite possible 

that your lenses are simply not worth bringing 

forward to your next camera. Most likely they 

use shaft-drive AF and will never respond any 

better than they already do on your old a33 :-(  

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Whenever One of my clients ask about UPGRADING their camera the first thing I want to know is

   What are you looking to fix with this upgrade? How much are you looking to spend?

   The A33 is an old camera for sure and the LCD viewfinder has seen better days. Lowlight capabilities?  Well... I have the A55 I still shoot with it on occasion and often lend it out to my Photography Students as it is a great little camera and learning tool. A low light master it is not. 

  School Gym lighting is BAD for everyone. I have FF flagship Alphas that cannot master the Green hue of the Gym lighting that is typically mixed in with natural sunlight that comes in through windows near the roof of the gym God only knows why they are there to begin with. 

   There are several ways to stay within budget and get a better camera.  If you are trying to stick with the A mount then you are stuck with the SLT.  Do you lose a bit of Light to the Translucent mirror?  SURE but  with in body Stabilization standard who cares... Put it this way I shoot Professionally with an A99 and About to Upgrade to the A99MKII because it doesn't make a noticeable difference. 

   So the USEd Route you can get the A77 (A noticeable upgrade to the A33/A55) OLED viewfinder makes shooting so much better. The High frame rate and larger 24MP files fills the buffer QUICK you may get 1-1.5 sec at full burst.  I usually shoot in 3-5 frame burst that gives you more room to work with the buffer. The A65 is roughly about the same. You can find these online for around 400-500 range maybe cheaper on Ebay or Classifieds.

  The A58 and A68. A bit larger form factor from the A33  With 20MP and 24Mp Sensors Respectively.   The A68 has a new Processor for Better Noise Handling  Certainly more range. I've seen good result from the A68 at ISO 25,600 not prize winning but usable when you want to get a shot in lowlight for personal use. 

  The A58 can be found Under 600 and A68 right at the 600 mark for Body only. 

   Hope this Helps. 

Mark Onewolf
1WP

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

  • Posts

    • You will see approximately NO difference when shooting stills - if you shoot lossy compressed RAW at full speed you might start to build a buffer backlog, and that will clear a little faster with CFeA cards like the Lexar Gold or Sony Tough. But it is marginal. You WILL see a difference if your shoot 1000+ images and download them with a fast reader to a local SSD - they will download much faster than even the fastest SDs. But that‚Äôs a marginal reason to get them (unless you are in the habit of shooting thousands of images - I do that more on the A1 for obvious reasons) The CFeA cards are pretty tough - I have some Sony and some Lexar, all 160GB - but I mainly got them for the A1 - I use them in the A7RV because I already have them. I don‚Äôt think you really need CFeA cards (buy them if you want, though). I‚Äôd be tempted to get a couple of 128GB or 256GB Sony Tough G SD cards instead. The G cards are worth it because they enable things like high frame rate 4k, and they download faster. Basically, I‚Äôd recommend fast UHS-2 SD cards (300 read / 299 write is good) over slower UHS-1 cards. Whatever you do, don‚Äôt buy 90MB/s cards! I like the Tough cards, but like you said the Lexar Gold are much cheaper in CFeA - I bought a couple to try them, and to encourage Sony to drop their price!
    • I have been shooting Sony for 5 years (A7r3,¬†¬†A73, A6400).¬†¬†Taking delivery of the A7r5 in a few weeks.¬†¬†I will NEVER (never say never!), shoot 8k and am primarily a still pro shooter.¬†¬† I plan to get 2, Lexar Professional 160GB CFexpress Type A Gold Series cards Up to 900MB/s.¬†¬†The Sony tough cards with the same spec are close to $200 more for a pair.¬†¬†IS THIS speed spec overkill considering I'm shooting primarily still, and occasional 4K videos?¬† Thanks in-advance for any replies.¬†
    • The Sigma 105mm macro lens DG DN Art is on Ver.02 2023.01.26. Though I haven't upgraded that lens, I have upgraded a couple of other recent Sigma lenses and it is quite simple using the Sony camera and detailed on the Sigma website. Do a quick Google search and you will find the information you seek. Link:¬†https://www.sigma-global.com/en/lenses/a020_105_28/?tab=support&local=firmware
  • Topics

√ó
√ó
  • Create New...