I'm new here and new to thew world of photography.
I'm a game developer by trade and love to modify things.
I'll be posting a few of my modifications I did to my A6000 (mostly aesthetic ones) and how I went about doing them.
Since the a6000 series all look alike I wanted to hopefully inspire some people to make theirs stand out in the crowd like mine does.
I'll post the link to my new thread once I make it and figure out the crazy file size restrictions with the pictures I wanted to include.
Sony offers a Wifi enabled remote view/control which I find myself often using, due to what I shoot. However, the ImageEdge / Sony Alpha (A6400) camera firmware combination turns out to be very unreliable (not only to me, but to many others I read).
Often when my phone screen goes off, I will have to go Back in the camera menu, find the remote menu item, reveal the QR and rescan, otherwise it won't work. I have hit the 'report issue' function each time (which triggers a flimsy error code in the error report (ironically) and I keep hoping this will finally be fixed someday. For a modern camera in this class, we should expect this to work.
Additionally, I also tried ImageEdge for desktop to wirelessly transfer / preview data during shoots. After many restarts, reconnects, reinstalls it doesn't find my A6400 at all. (this would make a massive difference opposed to cable or worse; take my camera off my balanced gimbal and remove the SD card because sometimes the USB connection doesn't respond).
In other words; Sony has is lacking big time when it comes to modern day wireless features (mobile monitor / transfer, desktop monitor / transfer). Does anyone know if there is better 3rd party software available with the capability to do this with a SonyA6400. Or; if Sony is rolling out actual fixes on this soon?
I'm curious to know if these two lenses can be effectively used in FF bodies without invoking crop mode. For instance, in my Pentax APS-C setup, I can use my 35mm and 50mm lenses in compatible FF bodies (film and DSLR). There is very slight vignetting, but I can get a full frame view out of them.
Has anyone else tried these two lenses in FF mode?
MacOS users BEWARE!! I just bricked an A7RII ILCE-7RM2 trying to update from 4.0 to 4.01 using my MacBook Pro with Catalina 10.15.3 VERY CAREFULLY following Sony's instructions. I had updated this camera with this computer but an earlier OS successfully in the past. About 1/3 way done, the camera just disconnected from the computer (volume disappeared from desktop), the little red light would not go out, and the camera would not reconnect. I tried pulling the battery. I read where some folks had to run the update more than once, but I couldn't run it again on the Mac because the Mac would not mount the camera as a mass storage volume. The reason I am not really upset is my wife has a desktop PC, and even in this messed up state, the camera responded to the Windows updater and is updated and running.
Maybe I have something set wrong but when recording video on my a6000 I don't see them in playback mode. I see all of the photos I have taken but no video. I'm sure they're there because when using playmemories they show up (although they won't wirelessly transfer). Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
You answer your own question why: " absolute best image quality despite bigger file size and more noise on pixel level."
Given my experience with 35mm, med and large format I know what increased resolution looks like even with much smaller prints of 8x10 and 11x14. In this case its certainly not marketing crap. Its a real world improvement. If you are using the kit zoom then perhaps there is not much more to resolve but again I'm using quality prime lenses and I know
Hello you all!
I'm trying to make an automatic turntable for object 3D scanning (photogrammetry).
I use this connector to interact with camera multiport:
Sony pinout on Multiport
For now it's working well, I use some custom electronics to trigger the shutter connecting trigger pin to GND. But it only work with the self-timer activated.
It makes my scan process really slow then (even with the 2sec selftimer)
Do you know a way to use directly the trigger pin (I mean,
I was also going to mention the A7x's. 24mp is absolutely fine for me, image quality is great and it's more than big enough for any print I would ever want to do. Until then, I don't see a need for more.
For what it's worth, I previously owned a Pentax K1 (36mp). It was nice to have that additional crop-ability but it was entirely unnecessary for every scenario I would use my photographs (currently).
many forums and the "pros" once were certain that the star eater issue makes the Sony A7 Series unusable for astrophotography but I always had good results with my Sony A7rII. So I recently went ahead and had it astromodified. The thick IR-Block Filterglas was replaced with a thin Baader substitute that lets IR Light down to the h-alpha line and the sII line through to the sensor with high transmission. The results can be seen in detail on my google drive link here:
Honestly, why do you need more MP? 24 MP is plenty for any kind of print you may ever want to make if you factor in optimal viewing angle. All these bells and whistles you speak of result in a vastly better image than just boosting the MP-count would (better AF and subject tracking, better low light ISO-performance, etc). Higher MP is just marketing crap unless you plan to heavily crop or print billboard size and stand with your nose against the canvas.
For good reason the A7x you refer to