Jump to content

Signa 18-35


RGLmotion
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

 

Looking at replacing my primes with the Sig Art 18-35. I know it's maxed at 1.8 but what's at the other end of its aperture?? My primes stop down to 22 on some of them, can't find anything on the Sig about its full range of Fstop.

 

Any help would be great, thanks!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Do keep in mind that this is an APS-C lens which can be used on FF lens cameras but probably will result in vignetting at the perimeters.

 

I own this lens. I currently use the lens on a Canon70d. It is fantastic. If you plan on using the lens with a Sony camera purchase the Sigma MC-11 converter + Sigma USB Dock. With the USB dock you can upgrade the lens from use on a Canon camera, foe example, to best performance on a Sony. Then you can further fine tune the lens, if desired, to your preference as to how you like to focus. Probably sounds more difficult than it is but really it's not bad at all. The USB dock can be used on several of Sigma lenses.

 

HTH!

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Or buy the Sony A-mount version depending on you current adaptor.

 

I have the lens for A-mount and it's great, tack sharp wide open, but I did have to use the doc to adjust AF. 

 

However with AF sensors on the sensor, there should be many problems AF this lens on E mount if you use the LAEA3.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

  • Posts

    • I mostly see posterization artifacts, which are the result of lossy compressed RAW files (or bad jpeg conversion). Unfortunately, the A6400 doesn't offer uncompressed or lossless compressed RAW. The noise might indeed result from the smaller sensor than what you're used to. If you're not shooting at max aperture, you could try shooting at wider aperture and lower ISO. When you're not shooting at max aperture, fullframe versus APS-C shouldn't matter much in terms of ISO-performance combined with depth of field: at the same ISO and aperture value, fullframe offers better noise performance but with a narrower depth of field. This can be offset by choosing a larger aperture and lower ISO on the APS-C camera. If you want a fullframe camera the size of an A6400, try the A7C(ii).
    • ..unfortunately, the lighting was correct. The shot required deeper shadows. The K1 ff didnt have these banding issues [yes, I know the sensor is larger]. The film shots had details in the same light. The sony files, both the jpg and raw, had this banding/noise - with NO retouch or post adjustments [straight out of the camera]. the camera was purchased new a few years ago and I am trying to determine if there is something wrong, or the settings are wrong, or the camera just cant handle this kind of lighting [studio + softbox]. No shadow detail is one thing... banding/noise in the shadows is unacceptable. Does sony have a body this size that is FF ? Im wondering if that would make a difference..  dw
    • The root causes for banding are uneven lighting, incorrect exposure settings, or compression artefacts or certain kinds of artificial lighting, especially LED lights. Also the lens used plays a role, I have noticed it more with my sharpest lenses, looks like they outresolve the sensor when I have a uniform blue sky. There is more than one solution, and ultimately post-processing, but the root cause has to be identified first.
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...