Sharpest 85mm legacy lens

[nomad]

Another alternative is very high quality matte black paint you can get for painting plastic models. I use Tamiya Color XF-1 (flat black) and it works very well.

[EDBR]

Nomad, yes was wrong about this

80 mm Mamiya is behaving as a 50mm on a 645 Mamba compared to 35mm

So on a A7 it's a 80mm

http://www.kenrockwell.com/pentax/645/35mm-equivalent.htm

[addicted2light]

Nomad, yes was wrong about this

80 mm Mamiya is behaving as a 50mm on a 645 Mamba compared to 35mm

So on a A7 it's a 80mm

http://www.kenrockwell.com/pentax/645/35mm-equivalent.htm

 

 

Yes and no.

 

Focal length is independent from the format you use it on: so an 80mm will have the same "compression" of the focal planes, depth of field, size of the "bokeh balls" etc. whatever format you use it on. 

 

What changes is the crop factor, meaning that (assuming a lens that can cover multiple formats, i.e. a lens with a large enough image circle) a smaller format will simply use a smaller portion of the lens image circle. All these "equivalency tables" all that are discussing is really equivalency in terms of framing, not in terms of "optical inherent qualities", so to speak.

 

That's why, for example smaller formats (m4/3, APS-c etc.) seem to exhibit more depth of field compared to larger ones. It's because with a smaller format you will use, to get the same frame (shooting from the same position), a shorter lens with a more extended DOF (for example a 25mm on m4/3 and a 50mm on FF).

[Gilgenberg]

Thank´s for the info

 

so long i have no issues with dust from the velour

[nomad]

Please let's drop this "behaves as XXmm", it's so confusing. A lens keeps it's properties, whatever sensor is behind it.

 

A different size of sensor changes the viewing angle of the photographic system, not the focal length.

[EDBR]

Yes Nomad, viewing angle, you have a point.

But could be difficult with all the different sensors sizes and we are so used to these mm.

For me it's still easy to think that a 85mm is a short tele on a 35mm sensor.

 

Gilgenberg, nice point to use velour in adapters.

 

A2L well aware of the crop factor + DOF, use APSC and Full frame with the same lenses. Was temporarily confused about this Mamiya lens because it's not my usual lens brand or thing but will certainly go for the 80mm. Seems nice.

[addicted2light]

A2L well aware of the crop factor + DOF, use APSC and Full frame with the same lenses. Was temporarily confused about this Mamiya lens because it's not my usual lens brand or thing but will certainly go for the 80mm. Seems nice.

The f/1.9 version of the Mamiya, should you manage to find one at a reasonable price, is quite nice (especially if used on a Mamiya medium format camera, more than on a "small sensor", to be fair).

 

I bought & tested one once, unfortunately I had to return it stat because it was full of fungus.

[Gilgenberg]

but be aware the 80mm 1.9 has 420gr. the  80mm 2.8 N has only 230gr.

 

to have a lighter lens is a big advantage on a small Sony Body!

 

it is getting one of my favorite lenses as it has awesome IQ and such a smooth focus behavier

 

here some fotos:

 

https://www.flickr.com/photos/gilgenberg/albums/72157667342231201

[EDBR]

To nomad, 

 

YES, YES the 200mm Minolta is a gem, it shows some CA but those are easily corrected in LR.

See corner sample (100%) of the two lenses: 70-200 f4 against good old minolta side by side at 200mm at f8, or 100€ against 1400€, extreme corner performance.

 

Also see testplatform, problem with the tree but I will not cut for testing....   :-)

 

Good old lenses ar far better....no AF but for landscape photography it4s the way to go !!!!

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[nomad]

Hmm, 

as much as I love my Minoltas, your Sony zoom seems a bit soft. Need to check mine against the 200mm f4 Rokkor.

[nomad]

Made a quick test now and my Sony zoom and my Minolta 200mm, both at f4, are very close in resolution. The Sony has a tad more contrast and the Minolta some CA.

 

Very, very close, even when pixel peeping for technical parameters – of course not in style.

[Wally The Confused]

Sorry, I was a bit hasty and went by the title only.

 

The beautiful Minolta 85mm f 1.7 used to be under 200. But I'm afraid with the success of Sony's A7 line all this is going to change and I'll have to up my insurance – I got a complete line of Minolta and Zeiss C/Y glass when there was only MFT to adapt it to. When I checked some prices recently, I found out that this was one of the best investments in my life…

 

Hi I bought my 85mm 1.7  back in 73, Used it on an xe 1 til it broke,  recently got an adapter for it . as  shown

 

 

I have not found much info on the lens lately, so, are you saying it is now a valuable  lens  ?

[nomad]

Well, technically it's quite soft WO, portraits look a bit like fashion photos from the sixties. But it's getting pretty sharp when stopping down. It's famous for it's bokeh and the excellent quality of mechanics.

 

More info in English here: http://www.rokkorfiles.com/Lens%20Reviews.html

 

And very detailed info in German on: http://artaphot.ch/minolta-sr/objektive

 

But I think it's a bit overrated on the second hand market these days. 

[Wally The Confused]

Thanks for your  reply, I can see my memory is failing me. I was positive it was 1973 when I bought the lens new.

However, it was not released until  1978 .   Sorry !    ( Could a moderator   correct my post , if possible  ? )

Thanks

[finarphin]

Besides sharpness, cost, and maximum f-stop, there might be a couple of other parameters to consider.  I'm thinking of how easy it is to focus, and does it have focus shift.  I'm still looking for a lens in about this focal length, and the three that I have tried have all been hard to focus (on a film camera) and exhibit focus shift -- I can tell there is focus shift because I can use focus assist to focus at f2, and then when I stop down to f5.6 and take the picture the resulting image isn't sharp where I had it.

[nomad]

How precise is your adapter?

[Golem]

How precise is your adapter?

  

That is not going to cause focus shift.

  

An adapter that is not on-axis will cause a shift

if you focus on one side of the frame and then

reframe the subject over to the other side. This

would happen even if you focus at the working

aperture. If focus changes in that manner, that

is not actually "focus shift", which refers to the  

focus shifting due to stopping down.

  

But if you focus and don't reframe, you can still

get a shift from the lens itself, same shift you'd

get even with a perfect adapter. If the adapter

has an incorrect flange distance, but is on-axis,

that will NOT cause a focus shift. It will cause

an inaccurate reading on the focus scale, but

focusing at wide open will remain correct when

stopped down unless the lens has a focus shift. 

  

Focus shift is usually due to poor placement of

the iris along the optical axis.

[EDBR]

Long time I've been around on this topic

 

So Nomad

 

regarding what you say

 

"Made a quick test now and my Sony zoom and my Minolta 200mm, both at f4, are very close in resolution. The Sony has a tad more contrast and the Minolta some CA."

 

Could you send me some corner performance of your Sony 70-200f4, because or you have a very good sample or I've got a very bad sample or something in between of the two... 

[nomad]

I hope I'll remember when I come back from working in another city on the weekend. Maybe you can drop me a PM on Saturday?

[nomad]

Weather was awful yesterday, but I did another little test, two church towers close to infinity. My observations in the corners (centers are great with all three):

 

– The Minolta is very sharp from f4, but has darkened corners and quite some CA. The vignetting is gone when stopping down, the CA not.

 

– My Sony at 200mm has hardly any CA and vignetting, but is not as sharp by a relatively small margin – choose your poison.

 

I also compared a Zeiss Contax 180mm f2.8, which shows no vignetting, but quite a bit of CA too and it's even a tad softer in the corners than the other two, but then it is one stop faster after all.

[Guest Jaf-Photo]

Some nice lenses being discussed here. I'm particularly pleased someone brought up the Mamiya 150/3.5, which is a beautiful lens. One suggestion, though: please mention which versions of lenses you are discussing. I don't know if you're talking about the Minolta MD 200/4 or Minolta AF 200/2.8 above.

[asterinex]

C/Y Zeiss Sonnar 85/2.8 is the one you need !

[EDBR]

Can confirm what asterinex says, very good performance indeed.

Center super sharp at f2.8

Corners very good from f2.8, and by f5.6 super sharp like center. 

But a rather sensible to flare (and yes is a MM). 

[leathalism]

On 3/25/2016 at 7:01 AM, goranilic said:

Hi,

 

I am needing a 85mm f2 or better lens for my A7 Before I save for a new Batis I am looking for sharpest option on "legacy" market. Would like to hear what you got and how do you like it.

 

 

My budget would be around $250.

 

 

Best,

 

Seeing, I assume you would like tack sharp images in a lightweight 85mm lens, I myself have found that the Minolta 100mm f2 really is brilliant. This lens is the sharpest in the 100 Minolta range and offers a cheaper (albeit not by a huge amount) offering.

If you required the macro function as well, then buy the Minolta 100mm f2.8 D lens which is the must have value Minolta all rounder.

leathalism

[leathalism]

On 7/3/2016 at 10:29 PM, Wally The Confused said:

 

Hi I bought my 85mm 1.7  back in 73, Used it on an xe 1 til it broke,  recently got an adapter for it . as  shown

 

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I have not found much info on the lens lately, so, are you saying it is now a valuable  lens  ?

This is the sharpest of the 85mm Rokkor, the Bokkeh is very good as well, nice choice, it really has a beautiful film feel.

Leathalism