Jump to content

Recommended Posts

(MODERATORS: I noticed the legacy lens part of the forum too late, if you think this should go there, by all means, move it. It probably does fit there best.)


I worked as a professional sports photographer for years, blindly shooting away with a Canon and not truly appreciating photography.


I got a promotion and was no longer required to shoot, so I sold my gear. 


After a few years I got the itch again, but there were stipulations: No. 1 — No backaches. I wanted to go light. No. 2 — I wanted to shoot on a budget (I've added kids and other expenses). No. 3 — I wanted to have fun.


I did some research and talked to a photo buddy, PMR (some Sony shooters probably know him), and I settled on an a6000.


Picked one up with a kit lens and ordered an adapter for some old FD stuff I had sitting around from back in the day. And there's where my trouble started.


After messing around with the old standard Canon FD 50mm 1.8, I went immediately to Amazon and bought adapters for every mainstream mount — the best-rated, yet cheap, adapters. 


Fast forward two months, and I've spent about $250 at various thrift stores, garage sales and pawn shops picking up a vast array of manual focus lenses and other finds, and I'm having the time of my life.


So far, here's what I've got:


Nikon F mount lenses

Nikkor-S.C. Auto 55mm 1.2 (with an old Nikkormat EL body thrown in)

Nikkor 135mm 2.8 (with a Nikon FG body added to the deal)

Carl Zeiss Jena 28mm 2.8 

Sigma AF 24-70mm 2.8 DG (auto-focus doesn't work, but it's otherwise mint)

Sigma AF 15mm 2.8 fisheye (again, no-go on autofocus, but manual focusing is smooth)

Auto Vivitar 200mm 3.5 (stuck wide-open, unfortunately)

RMC Tokina 400mm 5.6



Minolta MD mount lenses

Minolta MD Rokkor-X 45mm 2.0

Minolta MD Rokkor-X 50mm 1.4 (threw in a Minolta XD-11 body)

Minolta 1:1 extension tube (I believe this was made for the 50mm 3.5 macro)


Canon FD mount lenses

Canon FD 50mm 1.8 (two copies, both flawless)

Canon FD 28mm 2.8 S.C.

Tou/Five Star MC Auto Macro 28mm 2.8 (surprisingly good little lens)

MC Super Albinar Auto 135mm 2.8

MC Auto Zoom CPC CCT 75-200mm macro 4.5

Osawa MC 70-180 macro 4.5


M42 mount

Auto Mamiya/Sekor SX 135mm 2.8 


Pentax K-mount

SMC Pentax-M 50mm 1.7

SMC Pentax-A 50mm 1.7 (got these guys for $2 each, mint, with caps)



A word of warning: This can get out of control. But I'm not sure I'd have it any other way.





Link to post
Share on other sites

Welcome to the world of GAS patients. I was infected 3 years ago and it's still eating my pocket.
You've got quite nice lenses so far but I recommend to avoid most of the zoom lenses, you will realize latter how crappy they are once you get better primes. A rather cheap second-hand A7 or A7ii (in the next 1, 2 years) may be better for you since these lenses were designed for 35mm film, or equivalent to the full frame sensor.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks guys. GAS indeed. It's something I never had when I shot Canon. I had a EF 50 1.4, a Tamron 17-35 2.8-4 and a 70-200 2.8L and I was happy. The white lens almost never came off the body. Weird. Maybe I'm chasing the look from that lens, my favorite of all time. 


Langstrum, I get what you're saying on the zooms — none of those were "buys." They were all included with lots. Those FD zoom macros are particularly bad. The little Tou/Five Star is the only FD lens I have that I occasionally use. The Sigma zoom is a great lens, but I'm tempted to send it off for repair, get the AF fixed, and sell it to feed the habit. It's not a cheap lens, and even with an expensive repair I think I could make a profit.


Sprocket, to your point, I really wanted to save a Minolta MD 55 1.4 a few days ago at a flea market. It was filthy, but otherwise in pretty great shape. Unfortunately, the guy thought it was worth much more than it was. I had to leave a man behind.


The photo here was taken with the Sigma fisheye — full res, it's a pretty nice image.


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Posts

    • I managed to find an old Titan tripod when I realised the combined weight of camera and lens was just 3kg. However, I still have the camera shake icon on continuously and yet daylight seems good. In manual mode no problem.   will keep trying.....
    • so i've been using the a5100 for half a year now, primarily for streaming. i have been noticing that the exposure and color of the image changes depending on the shirt i'm wearing. it's not a big problem now since i've moved to a bigger room with white walls, but when i used to sit in a smaller room with dark blue walls it changes drastically depending on the shirt/hoody i was wearing. i've been noticing that when i start the camera the image is dark with a red/purple hue. it takes some time for the camera to brighten up. after getting time to brighten up the image is bright and desaturated, and over time it get slightly darker and more saturated until it stops, usually takes 30m-1hr. i know about dro, have tried turning it of and using dro lvl 1. the same still happens. which makes me think it's either a software problem or some smart feature. 
    • I use a monopod with my long lenses when taking wildlife, as it gives me the freedom to track the bird or animal and is much easier to move about, than a tripod, particularly in the woods. If you look at the professional Sports photographers, they nearly all use a monopod.
    • For a REALLY long lens -- anything over 400mm, you have to assume that a tripod will be used.  That takes a little bit of getting used to it, but it's no big deal. After that, to keep things reasonable priced, look at manual focusing lenses.  There are a ton of them and they are as close to free as you can get.  Many have a T-mount, so you need a cheap adapter. I have a 500mm f8, 650mm f8.5, 800mm f11, and 1250mm f10.5 -- all t-mounts. They work fine on a tripod in A or M exposure mode -- manually focusing. They are easy to find and EASY to buy.  Spend thousands on a huge, heavy, auto-everything LD, ED, APO, G, GM, GQ-whatever, wonder zoom -- if you want.  Just don't send me the bill.
    • I wanted to move into wildlife photography but was unsure on the level of investment given I only have an A58 A Mount. I managed to get a Tamron ultrasonic silent drive 150mm to 600mm but struggling a bit to understand it. When you search around you will see people struggling with autofocus at the longer end and this is my experience so far. Manual focus is fine. If you go for the Tamron you may get confused with the VC tag (vibration control) - when you get into it this feature is only for non Sony as the Sony version allegedly handles this. My question is whether the A58 is up to the job or not. I may want to go A99 but will have to try and find users with experience of this set up. Thank you. I dug my old Minolta Dynax 5 out and the Tamron autofocus was working at long length but I simply cannot seem to hold it steady enough to avoid the handshake icon which is preventing me from taking the shot. Now looking for suitable tripod as the ones I have will not take the weight of this Tamron.
  • Topics

  • Create New...