By Nate CrocsHas anyone had and issue with their Sony camera flickering outside? I've been scouring the internet for the last 2 days trying to figure it out and have yet to find anything. Im shooting on a Sony a7iii, with a Sigma 100-400 Canon. MC-11 adapter. All of which are updated to the newest firmware. The issue only happens when shooting 1080, 120fps. 60, 30, and 24fps work fine. My shutter speed is the correct 1/250. ISO is manually set, and so are white balance, and all other settings. Nothing is set to auto. Here is the link to an example video: https://youtu.be/dKlSIuqQIAc. I would appreciate any feedback. Thanks!
By Spiritualized67Hi folks - my first post in this Alpha forum. Just got the A7riii with 50mm f/1.4. Love it so far. Coming from a Nikon D810.
I'm still confused about how I'm going to set up EFCS - whether on or off? Not really confused about Silent Shutter, because I didn't get this camera to have to revert back to 12-bit images or worry about banding issues in mixed lighting. Maybe the anti-flicker option helps?
That being said, what is your experience with EFCS?
I've read up on the technical and it is recommended for tripod use for sure (especially at lower shutter speeds). But not so sure about handheld at lower shutter speeds, like 1/30s through 1/100s?
Certainly in-camera stabilization (along with optimal Auto ISO/wide open apertures) could help mitigate any sharpness issues caused by not having it set to ON at those lower handheld speeds (for example, when shooting in low light).
While not always the case, there will be times (e.g. street portrait work) where I’ll also be shooting wide open (f/1.4-f/2.8) at much higher shutter speeds in strong light.
From what I've read, Sony and others don't recommend having ON when shooting wide open with high shutter speeds. Yes - you'll get those harsh Bokeh effects and maybe some uneven exposure artifacts.
Some say don't turn on after 1/500s, some say 1/1000s – and others just leave ON all the time (set and forget) or use the Mechanical Shutter exclusively. I’m leaning towards the latter.
I know I’m probably splitting hairs with the whole sharpness discussion, but I’ll set it to ON if it makes a difference at slower handheld speeds like 1/30s. Probably need it OFF when shooting fast wide open. On my Nikon I used their version with MLU, but for tripod use only.
What is your experience – especially for handheld street work with a fast prime?
We own two Sony A7R IIIs. Mostly we are shooting a video in 1080p ( XAVC - S 25p 50M ) FF and S35.
In all profiles we have a terrible banding. The video is unusable. We want to stay with Sony, but this problem must have a solution.Please share your opinion about what to do - some setup or new firmware from Sony or to make a claim and return the product to manufacturer. Thank you.
By Gdavison4Sony A7Riii Banding: the banding problem is nothing new. Since the A9 came out, using the electronic shutter with LEDs in the photo leads to banding. Here's my experience with the A7Riii and banding. I was trying to get some sweet bokeh from the Christmas tree lights.
I turned off the silent shooting and everything worked well...until something else happened. I don't even know what to call it. I could see the black band/shutter(?) move across the EVF.
Does anyone know what this is? Again, these were taken with mechanical shutter.
By bwudI shot some pretty underexposed shots today (playing around with stacking technique, this isn't ordinarily how I'd shoot), and when pushing them in lightroom (and the same thing appears in Capture One).
Could it be heat from the card slot? I've not seen this is any other situation, but again don't typically underexpose so significantly. Anyone else seeing this?
Attached are: default conversion & +100 shadows +2.14 exposure (Lightroom)
Other details: compressed raw, silent shutter (so I've lost precision), burst to a single card, every shot in the burst has the same noise.