Sony FE 16-35 f4 vs Nikon 16-35 f4 G

[tizeye]

This post is at the encouragement of a post I did in the Rumors section, where I note an experiment I did which shocked me and one of the prime drivers to make the change from Nikon to Sony...which is still in process. Due to a warranty issue in the return period, I returned the a7II but kept the glass. Biding my time with the D610 while I await the new decision a7II vs a7RII.

 

HISTORY: During a shoot, I brought along an a7II to try alongside my D610. Only did exterior of home with the Sony due to lack of available off camera lighting, When I saw the photos on Lightroom, it just looked sharper. That lead to my experiment. I set both up next to each other on tripods, matching 16-35 f4 native glass, and of course they both have the similar Sony 24mp sensor. Seems like a fair test. All at ISO 100. My initial attempt was at full manual, but sun moving behind clouds messed it up so re-shot Aperture priority with the camera choosing the shutter based on exposure. Shot sequences at 16mm, 24mm and 35mm, at f4, f8, and f16 for a total of 9 sets, of which will post 2 sets below.

 

POST PROSESSING: Essentially...ZERO! I wanted to see how clean it was straight out of the camera. Granted many issues (CA, sharpness, contrast etc) can be corrected in post, but moving pixels around to do it...so which is cleanest to begin with!. Shot in RAW to avoid incamera jpg processing. Opened in Photoshop, no corrections, typed the label, flattened the layer and saved jpg at "10 quality". Also, the crops were from relaunching the RAW file to obtain the crop rather than using the jpg save so they are both first generation jpg. Due to file size issues limited by the forum, I did have to resize the non-cropped version to 1500 pixels wide, but it is scene overview anyway.

 

I repeated similar matching the Nikon 24-85 f3.5-4.5 to the Sony FE 24-70 f4 with similar results. Likewise with some primes that don't match up. I am almost wondering if there is a problem with the D610 as performance consistently lagged.

[tizeye]

This is the Nikon D610 with the 16-35 f4 and the Sony a7II with the FE 16-35 f4. ISO 100, autofocus, Aperture priority 16mm @ f4. Frankly, these were somewhat disturbing and I didn't do a 3rd crop.

 

 

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[tizeye]

Here is the Sony Set at too large for all 6 to be loaded together.

 

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[tizeye]

This set I pay more attention to as I typically shoot f8-f14. I don't know what happened to the f4's above to be radically different. Perhaps the Nikon missed the focus, but should have been on the center trees which is along the same general plane as the light. DOF should have been sufficient even at f4. For those not aware of an Ultrawide angle lens, at f8, Depth of Field is essentially 3' to Infinity. Essentially, everything should be in focus.

 

Stopping down to f8, these are a little better but issues continue, particularly CA, detail in the leaves, and the opposite shore.

 The Sony Set

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[tizeye]

The Nikon f8 set

 

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[tizeye]

Finally, on the f8 set, Crop 3 - the upper corner - was one too many attachments to add above, so have the Sony and Nikon in the same post.

 

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[Cheatah]

Both cameras have an SONY sensor, so I guess, the results may be limited to this sensor capacities, and less to the optical differences!

 

To say what lens might be better, is not easy to decide!

[tizeye]

In my view, it is the Sony as it becomes clearer when viewing on a monitor at 100%. In retrospect, one thing I should have done with the posting limit is match up the 2 per post, like I did with "crop 3". Speaking of which, on screen the Nikon looked worse and chose that corner for potential edge distortion typical of ultrawide angle lens. I may go back ant edit the posts, trying to match up 2 per post.

 

OOPS...after a period of time the edit capability disappears. So everything remaining as originally posted.

[Golem]

This is all pretty sloppy.

 

Remarks included "maybe the nikon missed

focus" are you testing the AF or the lens ?

Only live-view focus is trustworthy.

 

Remarks like "at f8 with wide angle everything

is in focus from 3 ft to infinity" [toadal BS !!]

DOF is, like other forms of "magic", an illusion.

Look closer/deeper and it disappears.

 

I'm in favor of real-use testing methods, finding

so called scientific objective lab tests to be

meaningless for real-world needs.

 

Ok ? I favor YOUR type of test ! However, your

execution of real-world use-testing is flawed

beyond any shade of usefulness.

 

Thank you for trying and if you're reeeally into

such projects, I look forward to your later [and

better controlled] efforts :-)

 

`

[priyasoodd]

There might be shutter lag in your nikon d610. In order to fix it please follow given instructions;

• Depressing the shutter release button half way is the absolute best way to reduce shutter lag because the camera can actually take the photo at the time you want the photo taken because the long focusing process is already complete.
• On fast action shots, anticipate your camera's shutter lag by fully depressing the shutter slightly before your subject is where you'd like it to be. So by the time your camera takes the shot, you have a perfectly composed photo.
• The more shots you take, the more chance (particularly if you use the above tips) of you not missing the crucial moment. And in the digital age, you can simply erase the ones that don't work out.
• Upgrade your camera to a new firmware.

Check Nikon d610 Manual- guideusermanual.com/product-name-d610-manual&po=4312&lang=English for more details. 

[Username]

There might be shutter lag in your nikon d610. In order

to fix it please follow given instructions;

• Depressing the shutter release button half way is the absolute
• best way to reduce shutter lag because the camera can actually
• take the photo at the time you want the photo taken because the
• long focusing process is already complete.
• ..........................

   

Thaz odd ..... my 610 has, in practical terms, near zero release 

lag, And the 610 in question here is also quite free of any shutter

release lag.  

  

The lag that you describe [accurately] is AF time. Your solution

will definitely work, altho many users find all "half press" tricks 

[AF, AEL etc] to be awkward, more trouble than benefit. 

   

The solution-to-the-solution is to relieve the shutter button of any 

and all duties except releasing the shutter. AEL only via separate 

AEL button, AF only by separate button-of-user's-preference, etc.   

    

If you need to put all these functions back onto the shutter button 

for some casual snap shooting, just dial up the "Green Mode". It 

overrides all your advanced-user optional settings and provides 

instant "PhD"* level settings for every aspect of the camera, but 

does not undo all your personally customized options that apply

in the PASM modes.     

    

  

*Push here, Dummy !