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I've been having problems with the clarity/ quality of the pictures that my a6000 produces. The pictures that the camera takes doesn't appear to me to be of high quality, not very clear/ sharp. In fact the pictures often look worse than those taken by my Samsung galaxy S6. To test the camera I initialised it, resetting it back to its factory setting. I then used a tripod and the playmemories control function in the app so act as a remote shutter, to completely eliminate camera shake. I used the auto mode to take some test pics but the quality of the pictures did not impore. The pictures were saved automatically onto my phone in 'original size' via the playmemories app, where I uploaded them to flicker via the flicker app. Please can you take a look at this image and it stats and let me know, all things given, if the imagine should be of better quality for this camera. https://flic.kr/p/R1FbnQ Also I'm using the kit lense.

"Front-End Filter Solution" to get corner-to-corner sharpness A welcome topic launched to solve the problems with legacy lenses without changing the the thick filter in front of the sensor. Correct the problem by putting a front-end filter. See topic started here. Would like to share this because the more people become aware of this the better the solutions will be. see here: http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/1453834/0

Background: I do landscapes but I started out this inquiry to try and understand why my wildlife and portrait photos at F4 70mm on my 24/70 FE were often blurred, my wifes RX100 took a sharper shot so I used that to compare, Its been a little exhaustive doing all this pixel peeping etc. but I have learned a lot, the A7r is my first real DSLR after owning a NEX3, after shooting with it for 18 months now this investigating has helped me understand it and my lens strengths and limitations, I can condlude my investigation in this post. This post is a follow on from http://www.sonyalphaforum.com/topic/3691-rx100-sharper-than-24-70-fe-70mm/ I could not add more images to that post so started a new one. Findings: 1) As stated in the title, there is no doubt to me now that the Rx100 MK1 at its full focus range of 37mm (100mm equivelent in full frame) and max aperture of F4.9 is sharper than the 24/70FE at F4 70mm, and any F4 zoom range of the 24/70. The 24/70 is sharper at F8 and I know there are many benefits of the A7r image, color, pixel density etc, but its just not that sharp at F4. 2) The 16/35 FE is worse than the 24/70 at F4 at 24 and 35mm (not suprising as I dont believe any super wide angle lens should not outperform or match a 24-70) It was on par maybe very slightly less sharp at F8 at 24 and 35 than the 24/70. 3) I can rule out shutter shock as a cause as I have compared a 24/70FE 24mm at F4 and F8 below, I used a Hoya HD ND to get the same SS, F8 is tack sharp so the blur at F4 cant be caused by shutter shake. 4) My images at 70MM have been poor for a few reasons, in an attempt to prevent blur at 70mm shoooting portraits or wildlife encounters handheld I have done the following to increase shuttter speed to avoid blur, Shot at F4 Increased ISO Given the 24/70 at F4 is kinda blurry from a tripod the degradation from increased ISO above 600 was extreme, and at lower ISO (1-200) SS goes as low as 1/45 outdoors under cloud or in shade, then camera shake can make it blurry. So its basically pretty hard for me to do handheld portraits or wildlife shots on the fly unless I am in direct sun to bring the SS up without the help of ISO. Conclusion: Thats a little disappointing, maybe you pros out there are laughing at me as its obvious to you not to even try 70mm handheld with a slower F4 lens, but I had hoped I could do some basic stuff, truth is I should use my wifes RX100 for these kind of shots. This is not an attack on the 24/70, its great at F8 and I get the manyother benefits other than sharpness, just frustrating thinking i need anopther lens for handheld mid telephoto type shots. I have a few questions: Any suggestions? ( I now think I am better shooting 70mm at closer to F8, even if its way underexposed then recovering the image from raw, I will try that bit its hardly a goodsolution) Is this normal for this or similar full frame DSLR lenses at wide apertures? Does anyone still think my lens is a bad copy? I am thinking not as my 16/35FE is similar at F4 but please reply if you think so. One last test I hane not done is in full sun, F4 vs F8 at 70mm, same SS using an ND, The full sun speeding up the SS above 1/250 to rule in/out camera shake, but I believe I have done that anyway in these tests, and im over this. its hard work, so if anyone else wants to try with this with their 24/70 FE and post here be my guest. F8 1/4 ISO100 70mm (24/70 FE) crop 100% This is tack sharp, F4 1/4 ISO100 70mm (24/70 FE) Hoya HD Variable ND crop 100% Not as sharp as F8 at all, now I know this is not bad, but this is from a tripod, remote release, shooting handheld or with increased ISO seriously degrades images at 70mm F4 F4.9 1/2 ISO100 100mm RX100MK1 crop 100% Interesting the color change, both cameras are on standard creative style. BUt this is way sharper than the other F4 shots. F4 1/4 ISO100 24mm (16/35 FE) Cokin HD Variable ND crop 100% I have been curious which lens I am better shoooting at with between 24 and 35mm, My 24/70FE or my 16/35 FE, its clear the 24-70 is better but not by much.

Hi all! I have been a canon user for years and started with the 5d mkII (85mm f1.8 prime and 24-105 f4 L) especially involved in dynamic (street photography) and lowlight photography in the first place, i.e. stage photography (in harsh conditions -no flash, low light, handheld, comedians performing live...) then I started to specialize in staged studio portraiture (2× Elinchrom 500w). I also developped DOP skills in a cinema project and used the Canon 5dmk2 in that respect. The reasons for me to shift to Sony are: 1. Effective eye-tracking autofocus (is it me or did Canon really intend to commit commercial suicide not implementing that feature????) 2. Tack-sharpness and quick auto-focus 3. State-of-the art technology in the expert range outperforming canon 5ds and 6ds at a reasonable price tag. Now, three salesmen advised the sony A7III as a rational option for dynamic studio photography, which I do agree with. The point is I am really hesitating with the more expensive Sony Alpha7RIII since I like large format printings and super sharp portraits. I realize 42mp pictures will get my hard drives, CPU and retouching process busy. Suprisingly, two salesmen out of three told me the AlphaRIII was not proper to in-motion subject studio photography since the 42mp resolution was slower to process and would consequently generate inaccurate rendering/softness requiring to double the speed to reach tack-sharp shots (eye-focused) even with studio strobe. In short, SonyAR3 for POSED portraiture, macro, packshooting, stills, architecture, landscapes... only. My basic settings for studio are: 1/125th at 100 ISO. Subjects are not running, not bouncing, not headbanging on 200 bpm speed metal music. They just move as they would do in normal life, somewhat slower... I don't get it since that statement would mean the A7R3 could then not be able to deliver proper 42mp tack-sharp shots (full view) below 1/200th unless I'd ask my models to freeze??? Otherwise 'the expected softness/blur' will be quite noticeable and will ruin your work, given the super high resolution' they said. After a few questions, the salesmen admitted not being experienced in studio (were more 'macro, packshooting, nature...). What do you guys think? How well does the A7R3 perform in dynamic studio photography? How does it behave and compare with the A7R3 in that respect? Thank you so much in advance for your help!

I have owned a Sony Zeiss 24-70/2.8 SSM lens for about 6 years. Since I bought it (new), I have told myself the sharpness at the corners is normal. Maybe I have been trying to justify the cost of the lens, but I want to know what you think. I also want to hear form other SAL2470Z owners. What do you think of the lens you own? Does it look like this in the corners? (For full resolution version, click here.) This shot was handheld with a Sony a900 at ISO200, 1/500sec, ƒ7.1. I made sure to turn off any distortion correction in Capture One, and turned the sharpening down to zero. Note the smeared details at the corners. For what it's worth, no amount of correction in Capture One fixes this issue. Everywhere else in the image is amazingly sharp and always has been. It's just the corners that annoy me. If this were a $500 lens, I'd maybe get used to it, but it was over $1200 and that stings. I've also noticed that even a single filter causes terrible vignetting at the corners at 24mm. Again, I've told myself this is normal, but it sucks when I use a polarizing filter for a landscape and I end up with black corners at the widest focal length. You can see it slightly in this shot. Apertures smaller than ƒ8 are much worse.

Tested the new GM FE100400 lens on my A7RM2 today with a quality printed color and B&W target. The GM100400 is an excellent sharp lens at f6.7 and outstanding at f8 and f11. Wide open (f5.6) at 400mm it is quite good but some blurring of 2 & 3 point type is seen. At f8 2 point type is SHARP at 400 mm and almost equally sharp at 560 mm and f8-11 with the Sony 1.4X TC. The 100-400mm lens even operates reasonably well at 800mm with the Sony 2X TC, where 3 point type is fairly good and 6 point type is sharp. Of course contrast is lowered with the TC’s but not significantly for the 1.4X TC. No chromatic aberration was noted with this lens. I compared the GM 100400 with my (generation 1, 2014) Tamron 150-600mm lens. With a Sigma 2X TC at 720mm, 3 point type was good and 5 point type reasonably sharp. Without TC, at 600mm the Tamron is known to be much less than optimal and in this comparison test that proved to be the case: at 600mm very good type had to be 5-6 point type and even larger type could not be said to be truly sharp. Plus all tests required chromatic correction with the TAMRON lens. I did not test tonight at 500mm with the TAMRON, which should give better results than the 720mm using the 2X TC. In each test I moved the tripod so as to fill the frame with the target, so there is no correction needed for distance.

Hi there, I have an original A7 for which have two FE Zeiss primes and the FE 70-200mm G. All works great, incredibly sharp pics. I also bought a A6500 body recently as well, mainly for use with the 70-200mm but obviously making it an effective 300mm with crop factor (I always felt 200mm was a bit short). The a6500 is clearly a good camera, but when I use the zoom lens, it is impossible to get a sharp photo. I have used the DMF focus setting and the camera is never able to get the image in focus. In fact, the focus peaking can't even find a sharp edge. I have tried switching off lens stabilisation but to no avail. By comparison, the A7 is ten times sharper, with same camera settings. Any suggestions for improving sharpness, or is it a case that this lens simply isn't suitable for the A6500? That would be disappointing given it was a recommended combination. Thanks, Jamie

My 70-300 lens on occasion produces images that are not in focus when set to 300mm. I tend rule out camera motion because I am shooting at 1/1000 sec. and resting the camera on a solid rest. At first I thought it was because many of my earlier out of focus shots were wide open at f5.6. So today I tried shooting a sign that was 282 meters away and shot at 5.6, 8, and 11. The middle one, f8, was clearly out of focus. I am generally satisfied with this lens on my A7r2 camera, especially at the shorter FLs. The lens is generally sharp, and very easy to carry and use. Please see the composite of the three images. All are enlarged to 100%. Has anyone else experienced such issues with this lens or, with the A7r2 camera?

Hi guys, I need your help, I'm a little bit upset with my new Sony A7. The pictures I take have a lot of noise and no sharpness. Could you tell me if I'm doing something wrong? I'll upload a RAW example of the image so you can see it. I use the 28-70 kit lens. I tryed different ISO but still with noise... Thank you all!