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Found 17 results

  1. Dear all. I' m Pika a new member, thanks to welcome me in your forum. I need an urgent advice cause i'm thinking to switch from Canon to Sony and for many reasons i have to take a decision and buy everything before 10 days Before to choose to but a Sony A 7R 2 I want you ask you if you know the performance of the following canon lenses on a sony alpha 7R 2 using a metabones IV smart adapter ? Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8 L USM Canon EF 35mm f/1.4L USM Canon EF 16-35mm f/2.8 L USM II Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8 L USM Thanks a lot. Pika
  2. Blackberry with Rokkor 58mm f/1.2 Spring Foliage with Vivitar 135mm f/2.8 Close Focus Lilium martagon via Tamron 90mm f/2.5 Listera Ovata
  3. From Kew Gardens with Tamron 90mm f/2.5 on A7II Flames Tulipa clusiana var. chrysantha All photos on Listera Ovata
  4. "Front-End Filter Solution" to get corner-to-corner sharpness A welcome topic launched to solve the problems with legacy lenses without changing the the thick filter in front of the sensor. Correct the problem by putting a front-end filter. See topic started here. Would like to share this because the more people become aware of this the better the solutions will be. see here: http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/1453834/0
  5. The new Techart adapter (M mount to E-mount) enables AF with Leitz lenses that do not have a built in focusing motor. The motor is in the adapter. As present adapters for e.g. Canon lenses do not allow AF with ALL lenses but only with a few newer ones, it may be a good idea to have the motor in the adapter instead of relying on the motor in the lens. Such an adapter would be a rather complex affair as the diaphragm would still have to be set by the camera body through the electrical contacts on the camera body and lens. But the system would not have to rely on a possibly not working focusing motor in the lens as that would be done by the adapter. Hopefully Techart, Metabones or whoever will take up this idea and construct an adapter which allows AF with all Canon/Nikon etc. lenses.
  6. Just joined this group and searched the topic and didn't find anything.....apologies if this has already been covered. I shoot Nikon professionally but also have an A6000 walk around that I love. I've started hanging some legacy lenses off the Sony and, overall, am very pleased w/ the result. I'm going to purchase a Sony FF mirrorless just for that purpose (too much invested in Nikon to make complete switch and do love their cameras) and am wondering about which one to go with. My question: Given that the camera will be used almost exclusively for legacy lenses, can I get away w/ purchasing an older Sony FF mirrorless (A7) or do newer bodies generally yield a significantly better image w/ legacy glass? Realize this may be a hornet nest type of question but hope not. Thanks for your help, much appreciated
  7. From the album: Testing MF legacy lenses on A7R

    picture of my test of the 25 year old Leica Vario Elmar 28-70mm zoomlens. Just look at the HR image to see the impressive amount of details this old lens can reveil :-) - https://www.flickr.com/photos/mrtungsten62/
  8. First two with Canon Macro 100mm f/2.8 and the last with Rokkor 58mm f/1.2+extension tube Centaurea tchihatcheffii Centaurea tchihatcheffii Muscari azureum Listera Ovata
  9. Hello, I have became user of a6300 few days ago...I found this lens in attic and I was wondering if it can fit my a6300. Mount on this lens is m42 and I found adapter from m42 to e mount but I havent found that anyone has tried it yet. Does anyone of you have experience with m42 mount? Lens is made in Japan. I found there was few versions of same lens with different brand name(Rexatar, samyang). I dont have any experience and this would help me very much :)
  10. Hey everyone. I'm new to the world of legacy lenses. Modern lenses are a bit out of my price range at the moment, so I'm looking into the legacy lens market for some nice lenses. I currently own a Sony A7 III with a Sony Sonnar Zeiss 55 1.8. The lens is great, but the focusing distance isn't that great. I shoot a lot of action figures, and like a macro lens for still photography. Any recommendations as to what I should be looking for?
  11. Hi, I'm trying to use a 70mm Sigma macro using a Fotofiox pro Canon EF -> Sony E adapter. I'm having issues with the lens sometimes not talking to the body. It will take a couple of frames OK, then will just lock up, and I have to take the lens off to reset the body. I think the weight of the lens is pulling the contacts apart, but I can't get my Canon lens (24-105, heavier than the Sigma) to repeat the problem. Tried cleaning contacts etc. Anyone seen similar issues? Any suggestion very welcome! Phil
  12. Hi all, I'm looking for a 135mm for my a7ii. Does anyone have some advise? I'm looking at various lenses, and it is though to choose. I'm looking at lenses like: Canon FD 2,5/135 Olympus OM Zuiko 135mm f/3,5 Minolta Rokkor 135mm f/3,5 Maybe even a Carl Zeiss/Contax Sonnar T* 135mm f/2.8, but this one is more expensive Greatly appreciate your input!
  13. Hello everyone, I just got my first mirrorless camera - Sony A6000 with 16-50 lenses. The camera is great, but the lenses are not very enjoyable, they don't even have manual focus. I was thinking to get 35mm lens, but they are as expensive as camera itself, so I decided that I should go for some LEGACY lenses, so I could get some 'mad skillz' at manual focusing and working without zoooooooms. But since I've never had bought any lenses in my life, this only leads me to one question, what 30 or 35mm legacy lenses could you recommend and will they need an adapter? Also tell me why do you recommend these lenses. Thank you! EDIT: I tried to do searching by myself, that's the only ones I found right now, any opinions about them?: http://www.skelbiu.lt/skelbimai/revuenon-35mm-f-2-8-su-adapteriu-canon-nex-m4-3-20314886.html It's Revuenon 35mm f/2.8 with a mount to NEX cameras, costs only $40 Also I found a list of some lens, any PRIMES are worth considering? http://www.skelbiu.lt/skelbimai/minolta-md-24-28-45-135-200-ir-zoom-13090220.html
  14. (MODERATORS: I noticed the legacy lens part of the forum too late, if you think this should go there, by all means, move it. It probably does fit there best.) I worked as a professional sports photographer for years, blindly shooting away with a Canon and not truly appreciating photography. I got a promotion and was no longer required to shoot, so I sold my gear. After a few years I got the itch again, but there were stipulations: No. 1 — No backaches. I wanted to go light. No. 2 — I wanted to shoot on a budget (I've added kids and other expenses). No. 3 — I wanted to have fun. I did some research and talked to a photo buddy, PMR (some Sony shooters probably know him), and I settled on an a6000. Picked one up with a kit lens and ordered an adapter for some old FD stuff I had sitting around from back in the day. And there's where my trouble started. After messing around with the old standard Canon FD 50mm 1.8, I went immediately to Amazon and bought adapters for every mainstream mount — the best-rated, yet cheap, adapters. Fast forward two months, and I've spent about $250 at various thrift stores, garage sales and pawn shops picking up a vast array of manual focus lenses and other finds, and I'm having the time of my life. So far, here's what I've got: Nikon F mount lenses Nikkor-S.C. Auto 55mm 1.2 (with an old Nikkormat EL body thrown in) Nikkor 135mm 2.8 (with a Nikon FG body added to the deal) Carl Zeiss Jena 28mm 2.8 Sigma AF 24-70mm 2.8 DG (auto-focus doesn't work, but it's otherwise mint) Sigma AF 15mm 2.8 fisheye (again, no-go on autofocus, but manual focusing is smooth) Auto Vivitar 200mm 3.5 (stuck wide-open, unfortunately) RMC Tokina 400mm 5.6 Minolta MD mount lenses Minolta MD Rokkor-X 45mm 2.0 Minolta MD Rokkor-X 50mm 1.4 (threw in a Minolta XD-11 body) Minolta 1:1 extension tube (I believe this was made for the 50mm 3.5 macro) Canon FD mount lenses Canon FD 50mm 1.8 (two copies, both flawless) Canon FD 28mm 2.8 S.C. Tou/Five Star MC Auto Macro 28mm 2.8 (surprisingly good little lens) MC Super Albinar Auto 135mm 2.8 MC Auto Zoom CPC CCT 75-200mm macro 4.5 Osawa MC 70-180 macro 4.5 M42 mount Auto Mamiya/Sekor SX 135mm 2.8 Pentax K-mount SMC Pentax-M 50mm 1.7 SMC Pentax-A 50mm 1.7 (got these guys for $2 each, mint, with caps) A word of warning: This can get out of control. But I'm not sure I'd have it any other way.
  15. I purchased the AT-X 90/2.5 Macro after a lot of research. At the time, there were no short-tele Macro options for the Sony E-mount system. The Tokina seemed like the best option. I recently sold it to replace it with modern optics but I did enjoy this lens very much while I owned it. I used this lens with the Fotodiox Canon FD- Sony E adapter. Build Quality One of the things I like most about this lens is it's construction. It does extend when focused at its minimum distance, however it is quite small focused at infinity which makes carrying and storing the lens convenient. It's made entirely of metal and the coating is durable. It's light, despite the metal construction but very dense. Focus is smooth, the aperture ring is clicky and has a good amount of resistance, and the bayonet mount is secure. All around it's a well engineered optic. Also, I think it looks cool. Much cooler than some other legacy lenses. It's a vintage lens with the right amount of contemporary aesthetic. Looks are important to me. Features The macro capability is limited to 1:2 which is great for most wildlife, however it will be limiting if you intend to shoot very small insects or other tiny things. Still, the resolution of the a6000 is good enough that cropping to 3000x2000 px (50%) is not an issue - and gets essentially 1:1 magnification. The manual focus ring is the best mechanical feature of this lens. The Canon 100mm f/2.8 Macro USM was what I used before I switched to Sony. The AF is quite good but for macro it's almost useless and the weakest feature of these modern AF macro lenses is their manual focus ring. They have a short throw and are very imprecise and just generally feel terrible. Focusing manually with the AT-X 90 isn't frustrating or tedious - it's lovely. Image Quality The color, resolution, contrast, and out-of-focus aesthetic is very good. Chromatic aberration is present at f/2.5 but is almost completely gone at f/4. Sharpness at f/2.5-4 is good; f/5.6-f/11 is very sharp. Diffraction is noticeable beyond f/11. I'll let the photos say the rest. *These photos were shot in RAW with Neutral picture style, processed in Lightroom for color and exposure correction only. Contrast and sharpness are set to default. Pay attention to high contrast areas and the out-of-focus highlights here: This image is strongly backlit. Note the retention of contrast: This sample shows how details like spider's silk and the fibers on plant leaves are resolved: I just like this photo: Pay attention to the quality of background blur and subject sharpness: This lens is not great for astrophotography. Note the chromatic aberration around stars: With foresight and practice, this lens can work well for sports events, despite manual focus only. I think this image is at f/5.6: Verdict I like this lens. As far as legacy glass goes, this is by far the best I've used (among several). It holds up well compared to the Canon 100mm f/2.8 USM with the exception of wide-open chromatic aberration. If you like old-school lenses or also want a good macro lens for your 35mm SLR, I highly recommend this lens. Pros: Compact Good image quality Very sharp at 5.6 Good build quality Good value on used market Precise and smooth manual focus High contrast Cons: Chromatic aberration wide open Not so sharp beyond f/11 Only 1:2 magnification (0.5x) Not quite as good resolution as modern macro lenses Lastly, take a look at the attached image. It is backlit and has plenty of fine detail as well as some bokeh. It's a challenging scene for any lens and I think it does very well. Note that it is compressed to fit under the 1000kb attachment limit.
  16. Owning most of the beautiful Contax C/Y lenses, I could never really decide to spend the massive $$$$ for the 21mm Distagon. I might have gone for it if it wasn't so heavy and bulky too and it seems it's distortion is even more than the 18mm. I think nobody denies that it took the crown in 21mm in it's time, and most others in that range didn't even get near. Nevertheless, there are a few other mothers with beautiful daughters. So, what about alternatives in vintage glass? Recently, I tested two other famed ones side-by-side on my Sony A7R, the Minolta MC W. Rokkor 21mm f2.8 and the tiny Olympus Zuiko 21mm f3.5 (the later multicoated version). They can both be bought for a fraction of the C/Y Distagon. Both are floating element designs, the Rokkor is focusing down to 25cm and the Olympus to 20cm, and both have a front thread that doesn't rotate. My Rokkor is in good, used condition and the Zuiko is a limited edition version and like new, a true collector's item. Observations: stopped down the Rokkor has the lead in corner sharpness, both are sharp from the start in the center. Remember, this is pixel peeping on A7R FF with 36 mpx, you may have difficulties to see a difference anything less. Distortion is complex mustache for both, but a bit less with the Zuiko. CA is visible in the corners on both, but manageable. WO, the Rokkor has more vignetting, at f8 both are excellent. The colors are warmer with the Rokkor. Conclusion: You can't go wrong with these, they are head-to-head, choosing one is more about personal preferences. I like the colors of the Rokkor better, but it's heavier, built like a tank. The Zuiko ist tiny for it's performance. I checked a Rolleinar 21mm too. While many Rollei lenses were built by Zeiss and just had a different coating, Zeiss never gave their 21mm design away. The 21mm Rollei is identical (apart from the mount) to the Mamiya Sekor, so let's see: Not too bad either, but a bit weaker than the Olympus 21mm f3.5 in most categories: A tad softer in the corners, more vignetting, a bit more distortion and a tiny bit less wide. Worst point though: T stop seems to be much weaker (or they are lying about f-stop): wide open @3.5 the Olympus is a full stop faster than the Rollei/Mamiya at f4! So, if you are looking for a cheaper, much smaller and lighter vintage alternative to the Zeiss Contax Distagon in 21mm, the Olympus is it! It's only fault is the red ring that can show up on rare occasions with heavy backlight. Check this site: http://www.stefanrohloff.de/20_olyspecial.php?en=1 The Zeiss (Jena) 20mm Flektogon is another interesting alternative, but I didn’t test it here – sample variation of these lenses from former East Germany is massive and a test of a single one wouldn’t give you really useful info.
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