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Found 13 results

  1. Hello, Just started shooting astrophotography with an A7s Mk2 and I am trying to come up with a workflow that includes automated dark frame subtraction. When using the Canon 6D I use PixelFixer which has a batch processing mode for this purpose and works great. Unfortunately PixelFixer does not support ARW. Ideally, I would like to do this in camera raw with neutral settings but have not been able to find a way to script in CR. I can use batch processing in PS (with actions) to do this but would like to avoid the extra step (but in hind sight this is the same thing I am doing with PixelFixer). Has anyone found I good work flow? Thanks! -bill
  2. Falling stars during peak hours of Perseid Meteor Shower 2016, shot over lake Duolun, Inner Mongolia, China. Around 90 meteoroids, and also the reflections of the brighter ones, were recorded during the 3-hour period shooting, and were stacked into a single image according to their relative position to the starry background. Sony a7s (astro-converted) and Nikon 14-24mm F2.8.
  3. Hello Just a question for those who actually tried this. How is it performing. The most important question here is how it performs at night (with stars) versus coma, CA and sharpness (corners, presume center will be ok). Real life examples would be welcome. Didn’t find much found on the web so presume it must not be so good. Not interested in propositions to use other lenses...just FF-lens + speedbooster on a6000 or other aXXXX. Friendly greetings
  4. Coming from the 6D, I'm really happy with the images I recently got with my A7mkii with the Samyang 24mm F1.4 lenshttp://_DSC7607- Pano-Edit Photoshop jpg by Gary Ashton, on Flickr _DSC7522-Pano by Gary Ashton, on Flickr
  5. Hi! I tried astrophotography for the first time this weekend, and have a few questions. I've read many times that an F4 lens isn't fast enough for astrophotography, but it was my only option this weekend. I think the outcome was far better than I expected, although my "standard" for results probably isn't that high. Anyway - I tried 30 seconds F4 on approximately 16mm, on a tripod of course. I can see glimpses of the milky way, but not as clearly as the "typical" astro-photo you'd see from an experienced photographer. Question 1: Which camera settings (shutter speed, aperture, iso) is preferable in order to capture the milky way? Question 2: Is it not enough with only one photo or are you supposed to stack multiple photos? Question 3: What is the benefit of stacking photos - will the milky away appear more clearly, or is it to reduce noice? Feel free to advice me (and other beginners) on how to make the milky way appear more clearly. I'm sure the camera settings should have been different . I'll throw in a couple of sample images from this weekend. Both are edited in LR.
  6. This is my composite of the eclipse reaching totality. Each photo is about 10 minutes apart until it reaches totality. I love the detail of the sun's corona. Seeing the picture after witnessing the eclipse is incredible. I feel so fortunate to have captured this magical moment. Gear used: Sony Alpha a6300 Orion ED80T Celestron AVX mount
  7. I had a goal during the eclipse. To create and HDR photo of it. You can easily make out the surface of the moon, the suns corona and two large prominence's located at 1 and 3 o'clock. This image was created with 8 photos, processed in LightRoom and PhotoShop. This was my first eclipse and first time photographing an eclipse. What do you guys think? Gear used: Sony Alpha a6300 Orion ED80T - 720mm equiv Celestron AVX Crooked River Ranch, Oregon
  8. The waxing gibbous moon was rising, illuminating thin clouds and silhouetted by my friend on top of Chahar volcano in Inner Mongolia, China. Beyond the clouds you can vaguely see the milky way where the constellation Cygnus was soaring upwards. A7R2 + Laowa 15mm F2, ISO640, 30s, 2-panel panorama. 500px.com/haitongyu
  9. Night time filters to cut down the effects of light pollution appear to be relatively new ( found one article suggesting the first generally available ones were marketed in 2018). Has anyone had experience with them? How effective are they? The ones from "quality" filter manufacturers seem to cost around £130 for 77mm filter threads or 100mm square. So they appear to be a substantial investment, so real life experiences would be great to hear about, before making a purchase.
  10. Some pictures I took tonight. I used my A7S with my Samyang 12mm. Came out pretty good I think. 20 sec ISO 1600 f2
  11. Here you go! C&C welcome. Total shooting time was over 7 hours. I am making a longer timelapse, and this one is with the milky way sequences only. Full Sakartvelo timelapse will have one city sequence and 3-4 mountain cloud sequences.
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